Fairtax4me

You have a power problem. The clickig is possibly an effect of low voltage reaching the component. Just check voltage along the line until you reach the point where your source voltage drops off. Check here for the service manual for wire diagrams: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Ugh. Did she turn out the light? If not, go somewhere else and get it read again, and get the code. I think everyone should get their own code reader. Even if all it does is read the code, it's an invaluable tool when you don't have to deal with the parts store person trying to sell you parts that you may(not) need. Something that can read live data is even better once you learn how to interpret what the scanner is telling you.

Are the terminals the universal bolt ons that crimp around the end of the cable? You've checked voltage at the fuse panel as well? Most interior power comes through the fusible link (looks like a black wire) in the underhood fuse panel. Pull on that and see if it breaks. Check all of the big slow blow fuses, pull them out and make sure they're not burned or have a poor connection. Check voltage reaching the interior fuse panel.

Sounds ignition related to me. When was the last time it got plugs and wires? Burnt valves don't come and go. If its a minor burn it will misfire constantly at idle and will clear up at higher RPMs. A full out burn will cause a constant misfire on that cylinder.

Still sounds like a battery connection problem. Double check the terminals for clean connection. Check the ground wire that attaches to the body near the battery. Also check the small wire that runs from the battery to the fuse panel under the hood.

What was the actual code? There are a half dozen O2 sensor codes for that year.

Yes, disconnect the battery, then wait about 30 minutes for the storage capacitors in the airbag control module to discharge.

Mounts may not be 100% necessary. It depends on the condition of the rubber in the original mounts, and the bearing in the front mounts. Rear mounts are hard to check, but the fronts are easy to see. If they're original the bearing has a cap in the center that you pop off. If the bearing is full of grease and no dirt or rust has got in there and the rubber isn't cracked or dried up, they're fine to re-use. If you do need new ones, get KYB. Rubber on the Monroe mounts is softer and will age/crack faster. Dunno much about the Moog mounts. Never used them, but my experience with Moog has always been that their parts seem overpriced for what you get. Look around on other sites because sometimes you can find better prices on the KYB mounts. I found a pair of front KYB mounts on eBay not long ago for $90. Be sure to consider shipping cost as well.

Were they the single electrode double platinum or double electrode platinum +2 plugs? The +2 double electrode plugs cause issues in these.

You never know until you put a guage on it. I had a Chevy 2500 that would start and run ok, it could be driven a short time and then it would die immediately if you hit the gas. Fuel pump was running and making that loud Chevy fuel pump whine the whole time. Was making about 5 psi. If you're convinced its a sensor /igniter issue, go to a junkyard and grab all the sensors off of a car with matching engine. Doesn't take long to swap all of them one at a time until you find one that cures the issue.

Try it, worst case you have to move the harness off of the 18 manifold onto a 22 manifold. No cutting or anything, just unplug, move over, plug in. More powah!!

Like 1 bolt and its pops out of the housing... as long as the bolt doesn't break.

I don't think 05 has a replaceable filter. Somewhere around 05-06 they built the filter into the unit and the whole assembly has to be replaced. I wouldn't bother with it unless you start to have running problems or hard starting.

Leave the studs. It's supposed to have those anyway. Probably someone removed them and lost them on the forester engine. Just gotta find some nuts and washers for them.

Make sure the injector is plugged in all the way. Sometimes they get unplugged to get a little easier access to the spark plug. Might not be clicked down all the way or there could be crud in the terminals causing a poor connection. Typically misfire problems are spark related but it sounds like you've swapped enough ignition parts to rule that out.

Not common, but someone else here just had a thread about one leaking a few days ago. Maybe it will become a common problem? You can get rid of it but it will require a 4 port non-ABS master cylinder and running new lines. You could also pop in a used unit (they're usually pretty cheap) and just leave it unplugged.

If you have a code for purge flow and a previous code for the evap system put the ECU in test mode and make sure 1. The purge solenoid clicks on/off 2. Air should flow then stop in correlation with the valve clicking on/off. If air flows through the valve all the time that is a constant vacuum leak. This will change your idle A/F mixture depending on outside air temp as fuel in the tank evaporates and is drawn into the intake manifold.

Have you out a fuel pressure guage on it yet?

Belt marks are often wrong. Does the belt kit say the total tooth count for that belt? There are different belts for the SOHC engines and the way to identify them is by total tooth count.

Green connectors are test mode. Black are for codes.

Did you put the ECU in test mode? Need to do this to see if the ECU is circuit is working properly. ECU grounds the relay to engage the fan. If it works in test mode the problem is sensor related. If it doesn't work the ECU needs to be replaced.

No viscous coupler in an automatic. Automagic AWD uses a clutch pack that is controlled by fluid pressure and a duty solenoid in the tail section of the transmission. The split is normally about 90/10 until the front wheels slip, then the clutch pack is commanded to tighten and give up to equal 50/50 split. If you have no rear drive the clutch pack could be worn out, the C duty solenoid could be faulty, or the o-ring between the duty solenoid and the tail housing case could be broken or missing.

It just sounds to me like you're hearing the fuel spray back into the tank from the return hose. The pressure builds until the regulator opens then some fuel will return to the tank. Pinch the return hose under the hood with some hose clamp pliers and see if it still makes the noise. Don't bother putting a pump in unless you check the pressure with a guage and determine the pressure is low or there is a fast drop in pressure after the pump turns off.

Connect the green test plugs and turn the key ON. See if the fans cycle. Low-high-off in 1 second Intervals. The blower fan inside the car doesn't work?

Its a ball joint stud link. There will either be a hex or torx head on the end of the stud which you hold with a socket while loosening the nut with a wrench. Or there will be flats on the stud between the rubber dust boot and the sway bar or bracket which allow you to hold the stud with a wench. Needle nose vice grips also work.