Fairtax4me

As long as the big connector for the trans wire harnes is the same it will swap.

Dripping water in the floor is usually due to a clogged drain hose for the evaporator box. You will get periods when the air coming through the vents seems to warm because the compressor has to stop running on occasion so the evaporator won't freeze. There is a thermal switch on the evaporator that tells the ECU to turn the compressor off until the core temperature gets back above a certain point. In a perfect world the core would stay at 33°F all the time, the coldest it can be without the moisture in the air freezing. But in the real world the core temperature drops below 32° and the moisture on the core freezes. If it were to continue running, the core would totally ice over and block airflow, then the ice would cause the core to rupture. The thermo switch ensures that doesn't happen by interrupting the compressor when the core gets too cold. So you get a short period of relatively warmer and more humid air through the vents as the core defrosts. One thing that helps is to use the recirculate function. This pulls the already cooled, de-humidified air in the cabin back through the ventilation system, rather than the hot humid air from outside. This means less potential for ice buildup on the evaporator core, and you'll not notice those pauses when the core is defrosting, because the air being drawn into the core is already cool Another thing that will help, especially in Florida, is one of those big fold out sun shades for the windsheild. Keep the sun from shining directly into the car and it takes less time for the AC system to cool the interior.

None of that has to be messed with to mill the head surface. Kinda wondering why he was looking at the valves in the first place. Did you ask for a valve job? The guy I take my stuff to will cut a head with the valve cover and everything else still on the head. I took him one that I wasn't sure would machine out and he set it up and cut it just to find out. Took 10 minutes, and most of that was setting up the cutter.

There should be similar knock-out plugs in the sides of the cargo are kinda below where the tail lights are. If not, you can still run the wires out behind the tail lights and drop it down behind the bumper.

I think that should work fine. Bore and stroke are the same at 99.5 x 79.0mm.

Pull the door panel and check the speaker itself. If the speaker reads 4ish ohms and the connector is clean, check continuity of the wires from the speaker end to the radio harness end.

If the engine is at operating temp you can get small bubbles due to localized boiling in a non-pressurized system when the cap is off. That's not uncommon. How low was the coolant? Have you added coolant at any time since replacing the head gaskets? Do you check the coolant level regularly and just noticed a sudden loss?

Only good place is to look in the service manuals for those years. Most things (crank, rods, pistons) swap freely from 96-98 in the 25D. These will not swap into 99-later blocks. Pistons might, but not totally sure on that. 99 - later, the biggest change was with the crank, the thrust journal moved, and the rod bearing journals were bumped up from the 48mm to 52mm. That stayed mostly the same for about the next 10 years. People swap crank, rods, pistons from STI 255 turbo blocks into the 251 and 253 blocks fairly regularly.

Check the heater for resistance. The heater wires on the sensor are the two that are the same color. Check the corresponding wires in the harness for 12v with the key On. Whichever that is, check the other wire for continuity to ground. I don't have wire diagrams for the 03 forester. If you look around here there's a link to a site with factory service manuals for almost every year and model.

P1101: Nuetral switch circuit This is the neutral position switch on the side of the trans. It just tells the ECU when the trans is in gear or in neutral. The Neutral position switch is the rear-most switch on the drivers side of the trans. It can stick intermittently, or the contacts can get dirty and not send the proper signal to the ECU. The switch wiring runs along the left side of the trans and cross over the top and is attached on top of the bellhousing on the passenger side near the other large wire connectors. Check there for any dirt in the connector, and you can check continuity on the switch from there while moving the shifter. If you get no continuity or no change in continuity, replace the switch.

There aren't many options for the iPhone last I checked. I have the Bluedriver app and it works well. Its easy to set up, reads and erases codes easily, can email the codes or post to facebook, etc. Has tons of options for viewing live data. Very versatile overall, but the proprietary Bluetooth adapter is $99 now.

Probably the lens has separated from the reflector housing somewhere along the top of the light. The lights are easy enough to remove. Silicone along the top seam where the lens meets the housing. Then be sure to apply non-drying sealant (such as 3m weatherseal) to the back of the housing to prevent water from leaking into the trunk from behind the light.

Lots of reasons that a bearing can fail. Deform hub, deformed knuckle, lack of grease. Improperly fit seal allows water/dirt in, etc. There are only two grease seals for the bearing. The inner and the outer. The dust cap/cover is on the axle and is not usually changed when changing a bearing. How are you installing the new bearings? Press? Hammer?

Might pull the timing cover off and double check the timing on that side. What brand of head gaskets were used?

Unfortunately those schrader valves stick open occasionally and you have to be mindful of that. If you put two full cans into the system it should be right at or maybe even a little above full charge. The pressures sound good to me. Driving around in town is when the AC is going to do the least cooling. There has to be airflow across the condenser for the system to cool properly. The radiator fans can make it work well enough, but you get the best results when you're driving on the highway doing about 60mph. You'll notice it cooling much better if you take it for a faster/longer drive. When its really hot out the AC system has to work overtime anyway to get the hot iterior cooled down. Think about how hot the dash and the glass and all that gets sitting in the sun. Even with the best AC systems you still won't feel comfortable until all of that starts to cool off, which takes a little while to accomplish when its 90° out.

When checking resistance you always want the power to be Off. An ohmmeter puts a small electrical charge on the circuit you're testing. It measures how much it sends out and compares with how much of that current comes back through the circuit. Then using some fancy maths (based on Ohms law) it determines the resistance in that circuit. Because it's applying current to the circuit, any power in the circuit will affect the reading, and can potentially destroy the meter. Since the front left is the problem you're going to connect your meter leads to the wires for that speaker. That will check resistance of just the speaker and wires leading to it. If you can unplug the harness from the head unit that will help because you can test that as well.

Whenever the couplers are connected to the system the guages will show the system pressure. The hand valves on the manifold do not block that pressure from reaching the guages. Turning the valve all the way in only closes the port leading to the charge hose in the center of the manifold. You can check to make sure the hoses are not clogged by disconnecting both of the couplers from the service ports, the guages should still show system pressure. Remove the yellow charge hose from the manifold. Now slowly open one of the manifold valves to purge the refrigerant from the hose and guage on that side. You should see the guage needle start to drop as the valve is opened. On some manifolds there may be a schrader valve in the port for the charge hose, which you can depress with a small screwdriver to release pressure. (Wear gloves if doing this to prevent frostbite from escaping refrigerant) Bleed the pressure from both hoses to make sure the guages both return to 0. If they do not, crack open the hose fittings where they attach to the manifold to make sure refrigerant pressure can escape the hoses. Check the rubber washer/orings in both ends of the hoses to make sure they're not blocking the hose. Close the valves and reconnect the couplers to the system service ports. The guages should jump back up to system pressure. Make sure the hand valves are closed, reconnect the yellow charge hose to the manifold and the can tap. Open the can tap, and open the low side hand valve on the manifold. Start the engine, turn the AC on and see what it does. If it still doesn't act right, try connecting the guage set to a different vehicle (preferable one which you know the AC works) and see if the guages respond properly on that vehicle.

Yep, just run it with the guages hooked up for about ten minutes, but don't try to add any more refrigerant. If the low side stays high, or climbs higher, either the compressor is toast or the guages are damaged... or maybe hooked up backwards. Take some pictures of your setup too.

I can name about a dozen easy. Really doesn't matter what kind of car it is, any large coolant leak that goes unnoticed or unchecked is going to write a death cerficate for the engine. Subarus are most certainly not an exception.

Ok. Normally about half a can will go in and then the system pressure should be just high enough to engage the compressor so it can pull in the rest of the can. It does sound like your compressor is cycling, but why the pressure isn't pulling down, I'm not sure. Try running it for another ten minutes or so with the low side valve closed and see if the low side pressure starts to fall.

Could be a split hose going to the throttle body as vasy said, or a crack or hole rusted in the metal bypass tube that runs along the top of the block on the drivers side. The heater return hose connects to it at the back. Removing the big air box on the throttle body can give you more room to see in that area. Could also be a split in the o-ring for the crossover pipe under the manifold.

With both valves on the manifold open you will have no pressure build even if the compressor is running. The refrigerant will just pass through the manifold and back to the low side. High side valve on the manifold should always be closed when charging. I would think maybe the coupler on the high side wasn't pushed on all the way before. How many cans total have you put in the system so far? Just 1?

Is your valve open on the high side quick release? Make sure the valve on the manifold is closed, but make sure the valve at the fitting is open. Both low side valves should be open.

Both use a reduction drive as far as I know. Newer starters use a planetary reduction where the older ones were ring gear and pinion type. Converter is heavier, and the trans pump is driven as well. Valid point there.

Did the old stereo actually die? Was it not able to turn on, or was it just not producing any sound? Often if there is a fault with one speaker or the wiring to it the circuitry in the head unit will cut the signal the speakers to protect itself from a short circuit, so you get no sound. Some will do only one speaker, others may cut out everything. You can unplug the head unit and use an ohmmeter to check resistance of each speaker circuit. Typical speaker resistance is about 4ohms, so it should be something close to that. If resistance is 0 the circuit is shorted or the speaker is shorted, if it is infinite the circuit is open (wiring cut or pinched or the speaker may be unplugged). Also check resistance between each speaker wire and chassis ground to determine short to ground. A short to ground will cause the head unit to go into protect mode.