Fairtax4me

95 would have had R134 anyway. 1995 was the year the EPA mandated the dis-use of R-12 in new vehicles. How many wires go to the compressor? If there are 3 wires the compressor has a thermal shutoff switch. If just 1 wire then no switch. There is a thermal amplifier on the evaporator core which will shut off the compressor if the core gets too cold. The pressure switch on the reciever drier is a dual pressure switch. It turns off the compressor if the high side pressure is too high, or if overall system pressure is too low. How do you know the charge is within the correct range? Do you have manifold guages on it to see the system pressures? Sounds to me like its possibly overcharged, or the system has air or moisture in it. Moisture in the system will cause the expansion valve to freeze and cause the high side pressure to rise and shut off the compressor.

Before replacing the IAC make sure ALL of the tubes are connected to the intake tube properly. If any of the smaller tubes are unhooked or broken the MAF will not read properly and the fuel mixture will be off. Also make sure the intake tube is clamped properly at both ends.

Guage and computer use the same sender on this year. Symptoms don't sound like a bad temp sender. That would show up anytime. The OPs problem only happens on the highway.

Usually when you start getting random lights on the dash it indicates a charging system problem and the battery voltage is getting low. You can take the car to an autoparts store that does charging system testing to have that checked.

Did you check the wiring going to the trans? Check in the large connector for any dirt/corrosion? Check the wiring inside the pan for damage?

Do you have an infrared thermometer? You can use that to check the radiator for "cold" spots. Its kind of tricky to do on these since the fans are in the way. You drive the car until it gets to normal temp, then check the radiator in several places for temperature variation in the core. Temperature should have a steady decrease from left-right or top-bottom depending on which way the core tubes run. (Horizontal or vertical) If you find a spot in the core where the temp drops drastically that indicates a clog in the core tubes in that area.

Yes, slide the caliper off of the pin and lubricate the pin. Make sure the dust boot slips back over the lip deal at the base of the pin when you reassemble.

You'll get that if the engine is only running for a short time. Especially if there is alot of soot in the exhaust from running too rich. With no vacuum line on the FPR it will be running full fuel pressure at idle, which will make it run rich. The question now is, why is it still stalling.

Sometimes those balancers will go bad and the outer section moves about a half turn then re-wedges itself so the outer section isn't perfectly straight, and that causes the belt to deflect and yank the tensioner around. With a solid pulley that can't happen, but I have seen the solid pulleys bent from people using jaw-type pullers on them. Another odd thing I've seen is if the belt has ever had any oil or petroleum type cleaner spilled on it the rubber can expand and cause sort of a high spot, usually on the flat side of the belt. That causes the tensioner to move every time that high spot moves across one of the flat pulleys since it pulls the belt tighter. If the tensioner feels pretty strong (like it should be able to hold the tension just fine) you might want to try a new belt if you haven't already. If the belt is new, spin all the pulleys by hand and see if you can see any of them wobble, especially the larger diameter ones like the WP and SP.

Agreed. How old is the starter?

The pulley moves even with the bolt tight. That's why it has that big sleeve in the center. If you tighten the bolt and the pulley doesn't move, the sleeve is either too short (allowing the bolt to make contact with the pulley), or the sleeve is in backwards. The flat of the sleeve goes against the block. Be sure to apply grease between the sleeve and the pulley.

Try checking for leaves/dirt/dust/dead bugs stuck to the front of the radiator and condenser, as Texan suggested. Beyond that, I would suspect a faulty thermostat or partially clogged radiator.

But, Is the radiator full? Another C-villian! We're multiplying on here...

Ever seen the bottom of a radiator cap covered in that stuff? It's like that, but all over through the entire system. Just makes a sticky, sludgy layer of weird orangey brown goo on everything.

Short answer: No. Long answer. Overfilling doesn't increase the engines oil pressure, or even the crankcase pressure. What it can do, if filled beyond a certain point, is fill the oil pan, and when the crankshaft is turning it can cause the throws and counter weights of the crankshaft to actually hit the oil. It creates a hammering affect which dmages the crankshaft, and will also cause the oil to cavitate and can turn it into foam. The oil pump can't pump foam, so when that happens the bearings don't get proper lubrication. Depending on how far overfilled the oil is, it can also block off drain passages where oil drains from the heads, which will alter the way air flows through the block to carry out crankcase vapors. This can then cause normal blowby pressure to start pushing oil up through the breather hoses or the PCV tubes.

Yup, always double check your parts before putting them on. Only takes a couple seconds with a ruler/tape measure. Sorry to hear of your troubles over something so simple.

Looks like a good deal to me. Especially since it comes with the bolt. That bolt is a royal pain. It rusts inside the bushings and makes replacing those arms a pain in the you know what.

Subaru TSB with the manufacturer recommended procedure to set all I/M Monitors. http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/65245/pdf/065245-11-72-0458832.pdf

I think that's the VVT pressure sensor. I've read of several occasions of those leaking. Happens with any pressure sensor after a while. They don't last forever.

I've seen bad tensioners right out of the box. Did you replace the belt at the same time? Have you removed the belt and checked it for hard spots? An off-center pulley could cause the belt to wobble, but you would be able to see that as the pulley spins. Does it have the GM harmonic balancer, or does it have a solid crank pulley?

You replaced the sensor and still have the code? Did you check to see if the block area beneath the sensor is clean? The sensor base grounds to the block, so the block needs to be clean under the sensor in order for it to ground properly.

Did you rub all that crusty stuff off of the crankshaft before putting the new seal on? If there was any dirt at all on the crank it will ruin the seal. Did you apply oil or grease to the seal lip to lubricate it? I haven't used a Felpro rear main seal on a Subaru, but have used them on many other vehicles with no problems. The ones that I see leak are either driven in crooked, or the crank wasn't clean enough, or the seal was damaged in some way during installation.

How fast is the leak? Dripping immediately? Did you replace the o-ring under the diamond shape access cover?

Just depends on what equipment you have, and what else may need to be done to the engine. If the engine needs valve cover gaskets or other seals to be replaced, many of that can be done much easier with the engine out.

Head gaskets are not entirely necessary. Typically they only leak slowly, and can be kept in check just by keeping an eye on oil and coolant levels. The valve cover gaskets should be a higher priority since the oil leaking into the spark plug wells can cause misfires and damage your catalytic converters. I don't have a recommendation for a shop, but it can sometimes help to find an automotive machine shop and ask them if they frequently do machine work on Subaru engines for any shops in that area.