Fairtax4me

Press-in. Same amount of work as the front bearings.

Looks to me like the Turbo is toast. Used to see a Saab or three a week doing exactly that when I was at the Sabb dealer here.

Check them now while it's out of the car. Then if any bolts need to be drilled out its easy.

Now you can gut it and make it a true wheeler! Straighten the roof, New windsheild, should be good to go.

Leather seats, alloy wheels, two tone paint. Cars101.com has more details. Look in the Archive section about halfway down the list on the left side.

Get a code scanner, or take it by an auto parts store and ask them to scan the check engine codes. Post any codes here and we can work from there. At the very least you should do a basic tune-up. NGK Spark plugs, Subaru OE PCV valve, new air filter, new fuel filter if its replaceable. Check all of the vacuum and PCV hoses and replace any that are loose or cracked.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007L6Q1EK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1436753509&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=SOA427V1700 This one is through Fred Beans Subaru. They were one of, if not the first, to bottle and sell Extra S by the quart.

I would probably replace the cam seals and the O-ring behind the cam support on the drivers head, and the cam plug on the back of the head if that kit has it. Also change the o-ring under the cam cap on the back of the passenger head. Were the heads machined? If so be sure to remove the valve covers and make sure there are no shavings left in the heads.

Most dealers dont sell extra S by the quart, if they have it at all. Only a few of the online dealers sell it in quarts, most of which bottle it themselves.

Manual trans will drain about 90% of the old oil out, and front diff fluid is shared. Extra-S is highly recommended by many. Order 5 quarts on amazon and you'll have enough to do the trans and rear diff and have a bit left over. I would go with a used set of OEM control arms if you can get some that are fairly free of rust. Aftermarkets don't usually last long.

What year?

Nope, no first gen WRX here. Didn't get those until 2000 I think. We miss out on all the good stuff here like the twin turbos. Yeah we have those damn Chrysler/dodge cars that hide the battery in the fender. Luckily they had the forethough to put jump posts under the hood so when the battery dies (which is often) you can still jump it.

Yup. You can get it aftermarket online for about $6, just be sure to order some other parts with it to make shipping worth it.

Bushwick, the 01 has a multi link rear suspension with stamped upper and lower lateral arms, and stamped toe-link arms. The rear crossmember is entirely different on those, and all of the rear suspension parts are much more susceptible to rust on those. Subaru really just cheaped out on that stuff. If rust is severe there's a good chance the bolts than hold the sub-frame on are seized in the body and may need to be drilled out, or cut holes inside the car to get to the captured nuts that the bolts thread into. Here's a pic of one that broke:

Was the o-ring cut or had it got hard and cracked?

Check engine light on? Any mods? How old are the spark plugs? Air filter? PCV valve?

Gotta drain the oil anyway, so drain it into a clean pan or bucket and look for swirls. Cutting the filter open is a good idea also.

Its common in the rust belt. I would bet there's not a single subaru of that era in your area that doesn't have rust there. Fortunately that outer plate section isn't a structural part, but it does allow water salt and dirt inside the body which will cause the wheel arches and the lower corners of the dog leg behind the doors to rust out. The best repair is to cut out the bad section and weld in a sheet of metal in its place. Then prime with etching primer, paint, and apply rust proofing or undercoat. If you have to pay someone, that may cost more than you want to spend, especially since its in a tight area and requires the rear strut to be removed. Another option is to cut out the bad peice and fiberglass over the hole.

Check the pins inside the plug and make sure they aren't corroded or burned.

Ah! I sees the problem! Its a tooth problem alright... Looks like two teeth off

I would go with improperly repaired. These engines are really not that picky. Those composite graphite gaskets cover up a lot of imperfection, but there still are quite a few things that can go wrong and compromise the gasket. Block or heads weren't cleaned properly. Oil residue or dust/dirt on the sealing surfaces. Torque sequence wasn't followed properly. Oil got on the gasket because too much oil was used on the head bolts. The engine could have been air locked and overheated on the first start, or multiple times right after installation. Wrong or contaminated coolant used. Have the heads machined so you have a nice flat and clean surface there. Clean the block well and use 1,000 grit sand paper on a good sanding block to do a final finish on the block. Wet the block and paper with Wd40. Clean the block and heads with acetone or brake cleaner and be sure to wipe away any dust afterwards. Go easy on the oil on the head bolts. Some people want to dunk the whole thing in oil and it just pushes back up out of the bolt hole when you thread the bolt in. You only need to oil the end 4-5 threads, and a drop between the washer and the bolt head.

The different sized holes help regulate the coolant flow through the jacket so it flows evenly through-out the jacket area, rather than just flowing full speed through only one area. See that little check mark inside a circle on the gasket? That's the logo for Fuji Heavy Industries, the parent company of Subaru. Later gaskets the were redesigned and will totally block the ports in the head if you have the wrong gasket.

Never have removed that particular part. I don't think we even got the WAIC here in the US. Pretty sure they were all top mount. Pretty much, anything that isn't under the hood has to be accessed through the wheel wells. And on occasion you need to pull the bumper off to get room to work.

First you should get under the car and look and see if you need the whole joint, or if yours has the bolt together type that allows you to replace just the bushings. The bushings can usually be bought from an online dealer for cheaper than local, but you have to be careful of shipping costs. The joint is right at the end of the trans. Right next to where the rear driveshaft goes in. Unbolt the stay rod and pull it off to the side. There should be a small spring that attaches to a hook on the big washer. If the spring is gone order that as well. It does make a difference. I need to replace a couple on my car as well and have been thinking of doing a write-up on this since all of the old threads are missing all the pictures now.

No, that's the correct gasket. That type of expansion is pretty typical, but usually only see that on gaskets that have 150,000 on them. It looks more like the gasket rusted because of the wrong type of coolant being used in the system, or the system was poorly maintained by a previous owner.