Fairtax4me

Meguiars Swirl-X works well to cover the swirls temporarily. If you combine that with a dual action or orbital buffer you can reduce their appearance greatly. Top off with a good coat of wax and you'll have a hard time seeing any swirls for about one to three weeks, depending on how often you wash your car, and what method of washing you use. Getting rid of them entirely is tricky. A good detailer can make them disappear when viewed at the angles from which you will typically look at the car. But without just the right touch, getting rid of one set of swirls can lead to another. Most minor scratches will be disguised by a coat of good wax. If you can not feel the scratches with your fingernail, more than likely it's just a surface scuff and can be buffed away with a dual action or orbital buffer using a mild compound. Which will then need to be followed with swirl remover. If your fingernail catches lightly on the scratch, it may be shallow enough to wet-sand out. Wet sanding is tricky, and on most cars the clearcoat is not very thick, so wet sanding can quickly lead to a dull spot where the paint is exposed with no clear coat. You're better off in these situations to leave the scratch as-is. Use a compound to lightly buff the scratch, and follow with swirl remover and wax. Done properly the compounding will remove the "white" from the scratch, and make it much less visible. A detailers trick for "removing" deeper scratches is to wipe it with acetone, apply clearcoat with a toothpick to the scratch, then again wipe with acetone after the clear has dried. Later this will be followed by sanding with a very high grit sanding sheet such as Trizact, then compound and swirl removal.

Leave the heat shields on. Takes a lot of salt to rust those y-pipes out. The flanges are always a pain. They're usually warped because of all the rust, and the only good way to get them to seal is with muffler seal stuff or with this nasty goop called acousti-seal. Slather some on the gasket, put the gasket on, bolt it together and let it dry. Napa usually carries it. Use gloves when handling it because it's worse than tar. That bolt is really hard to get to with the exhaust system all attached. If you really can't get it, drop the y-pipe down off the heads. Of course this will probably require then cleaning the head flanges, and new gaskets.

Smack dead center front of the engine under the alternator.

EPA link: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/im/obd/regtech/420f08009.pdf

95 and 96 do this. They're exempt from monitor testing because of this. http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/65245/pdf/065245-11-72-0458832.pdf

Probably need to just replace the connectors. Headlamps are not grounded under the hood. Ground is the hi-low dimmer switch in the column.

Doing a full turbo swap right? And thus have the turbo ECU and harness. So manifold, wiring, injectors all moot points. If you can order the sticker, order the sticker. Sounds like a $10 fix to me!

Could be due to jumped timing. Cyls 1&3 are both passenger side.

Do what fits your budget. If the car isn't rusty, might as well keep driving it.

Is the rear crossmember rusty? Is this the next evolution of the owl?

MAP isn't vacuum. MAP is absolute pressure, which means any amount of pressure above 0 pressure. MAP reading around 9-10" at idle is normal. Turn off the engine and MAP will rise to somewhere around atmospheric pressure. Subtract your 9.3" from that to get engine vacuum.

Can't be that hard to do if they sell it separately. Fuel pumps in these don't go bad very often, but aftermarket pumps should be avoided. I would replace the sender with the dealer part long before replacing the whole assembly with an aftermarket.

This may help. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/legacy_instrument_panel_blowup.jpg It kinda looks like the center trim panel may be removeable without pulling the whole top section. Two screws appear to be behind the cup holder, and two screws go up from the ash tray slide. Screws for the upper panel may be hidden behind there.

Use a 17mm box end wrench or socket on a breaker bar to turn the cam. Wrench is better because you can turn the cam easily, but still feel for any resistance. And it saves you fingers from getting cut when the cam snaps over as the valve springs unload.

Sounds a little deeper than valves. Could just be the way the phone records though. Frequency sounds right for lifter tick. The timing belt tensioner on the 96 should be the old two piece that doesn't really ever go bad. You might be able to look in from the side cover and see if the pulley is flopping around. If that's still on its original belt it could be the cogged idler smacking around. Beyond that... rod knock, wrist pin maybe?

On MAF based cars the ECU doesn't really matter because it will change fuel ratio based on airflow through the MAF. Smaller displacement, less air, less fuel. MAP cars can have a hard time, especially if you're going up in displacement and/or add cams.

Check the wiring and the connectors on top of the units first.

Kind of a long read but lots of good info here on diagnosing the AC system. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=49812 Removing the panel is pretty straightforward. Remove the screws from the upper trim bezel (it wraps all the way across around the cluster). Then 4 screws hold the panel in, a couple of electrical plugs and a clip to pop loose so you can get the heater flap cable loose. On the 95-99 Legacy it helps to unclip the cable from the air box under the dash first, but I'm not sure how/if that is accessible on the 1st gen cars.

Trim code is interior color I believe. Color code is exterior color. Option code and applied model I'm not sure of. Someone who may know is Joe Spitz of Cars101.com. I don't see that info posted on the site just at a quick glance, but you could probably email him and ask.

That probably works as long as the VIN isn't on the sticker. Or as long as the inspector doesn't check the VIN on the sticker...

DOH!!! [/homer]

Yes, either can be used for position reference. Arrows are straight up at TDC to number 1. Every 90° clockwise rotation of the cam sprockets indicates TDC for the next cylinder in the firing order.

In those pics it looks like they're all in line with the arrow on the sprocket.

I though they all had the notch in the same place. Maybe you can remove the other sprockets and compare.

Double check the lash adjustment. Make sure the cylinder is at TDC when you're doing the adjustment. Try to narrow down which end of the head the noise is coming from (front/rear, top/bottom) so you can focus on two valves instead of all eight on the head. Maybe check the camshaft lobes for damage.