Fairtax4me

If you got a judgment you'll get your money. If they won't pay the court clerk can instruct you on the next step to take. Probably a garnishment or something similar.

My point is that by fully depressing the switch all the way the switch can be damaged internally, causing the repeat failure. If the switch is adjusted properly the button is only depressed just far enough to open the contacts for the brake circuit, not forced all the way to the end of its range of movement. Fuses protect the switch from over-load damage. If there were a short the fuse would blow. Except if someone replaced a blown fuse with one of a higher amp rating.

Just put some head gaskets on it and be glad its actually fixed.

Does it say to pull any spark plugs on the directions on the label? How sure are you that you have a bad head gasket?

I would also probably guess the switch is misadjusted. The pedal is only supposed to press the switch just far enough to open the contacts for the brake lights, and close the contacts for the cruise control. Adjustment is best done with a multimeter to check when the cruise contact closes.

Only other thing to check is if it starts pushing bubbles into the overflow container after warming up. Pressure in the system shortly after starting or bubbles in the overflow are signs of bad head gaskets.

What brand thermostat? Cheapo thermostats don't work well on these. If you start the car from cold and run for about 30 seconds to a minute do you feel pressure in the upper radiator hose?

I have a set of those and I think they might be too short to reach over the stud. Propane should work OK. I've used that plenty of times on other exhaust parts to get rusty bolts and nuts loose. Just focus the heat on the nut itself. You won't get it to glow (at least not easily) but it will still expand the nut enough to crack the rust seal. Took about an hour to get the bolts removed on the van. Mostly because it was just plain hot! 90° outside, 90% humidity, hot engine, more heat from the torch, and a 100w work light!

Could be a bad ECT sensor. Or large vacuum leak causing it to run too lean at start.

Do you know which parts of the suspension were replaced? More than likely the squeak is from a bolt that wasn't torqued properly and has loosened. Most of the suspension parts have lock nuts on the bolts so there probably isn't much risk of the bolt falling out, but every time it squeaks it means just a little bit more metal is wearing away on the bolt and the hole it goes through. See if you can bounce the front end of the car or grab the roof rails and rock the car back and forth to re-create the noise while it's sitting still. Have someone else listen under the front of the car and see if they can determine where the noise is coming from.

I see that, but I still think here must be an exemption list because it's not just Subaru that has problems with the IMs setting for ready status. I can't explain why the monitors would set and maintain Ready on previous occasions. All of the 95 and 96 Subarus I've scanned have always reset the Evap, Cat, and EGR, monitors at key Off.

These 2.2s make gobs of low end torque. 2.2 torque curve peaks around 3,500 rpm. The DOHC 2.5 torque peaks around 5,000. But torque curve has more to do with the cam profile than ignition timing. The ECU will scale timing up until it detects knock. If it does it will pull the timing back to correct the knock. If it doesn't knock, it just follows a preset curve that's dependent on load calculation and engine speed.

I think I've had them in my car for about a year along with upgraded larger guage wiring and relays, and running Silverstar ultra headlamp bulbs for about the same amount of time. They've held up fine so far.

Ceramic sockets handle a lot of heat but leave the terminals exposed to weather and moisture. I installed High temp sockets on my 96. Dorman 84790 The wires are larger guage and the terminals are heavy duty. Plus the connector is housed in a rubber cover to keep out water and dirt.

Corrosion or loose fit of the connector. Electricity creates heat when too much amperage moves through too small of an area. Eventually the heat gets high enough to melt the plastic. Same thing happens when a fuse blows. Too much amperage through the fuse causes it to heat up and burn. Only the connector problem is much slower.

Torch probably won't hurt anything if you get it tight up by the nut. Do you have acetylene or propane? Acetylene works faster but propane can work if you can put the heat in the right place. Get it hot then hammer a 12 point 13mm socket on there? I just had to torch 5 nuts and all 8 manifold bolts on a ford econoline conversion van to get the manifold off to fix an exhaust leak. Only accessible through the dog-box cover, inside the van! Carpet and dash board about 3" from a 5,000° flame! Talk about fun!

Compound is just an abrasive polishing agent. Either in liquid or paste form. There are many different flavors, from heavy cut to fine finish compound, and the proper one to use depends on what you want to do and how quickly you want it done. Compound basically removes or smudges around the very top of a layer of paint or clearcoat where most minor surface imperfections are. Spider webbing, swirling, orange peel, light scratches. For your uses you probably just want to stick with a basic paste type rubbing compound such as the kind made by Turtle wax. Its fairly light compound which means it will remove minor markings and scuffs without causing too much swirling, and is easy to use by hand. What you may be seeing is the effect of someone using a heavy compound or a dirty or rough cloth to try to get the specks off. Try the swirl-x first, and use a clean new micro-fiber towel to try to rub out the marks.

Seafoam! Don't know how many idle problems I've fixed with Seafoam. I usually use about half a can in the intake and pour the other half in the fuel tank. The stuff just works. Last time I seafoamed my car one of my newer neighbors down the street thought it was on fire! The wind had shifted and blew all the exhaust back under the car and it was pouring out of the wheel wells and all under the hood and coming out of the grille. So much fun!

What kind of crud? Black? Grey? Oily? Crusty? Any way you can take a picture of it?

What year and model? Green connectors for test mode on 95 and newer. There are several fuses for the fans. Usually two in the underhood fuse panel, one in the dash fuse panel.

If you totally remove the cable from the release lever, and look down into the hole in the trans can you see the release bearing slide back and forth on the quill as you move the release lever? You should be able to see it move, and you should see it seat against the fingers of the pressure plate if you push back (toward the rear of the car) on the lever. Were you able to easily slide the release lever on the quill before you bolted the engine and trans together? Free play at the lever should be about 1/4-3/8". If you can move the lever at all, the free play is probably fine. If the cable is too tight you won't be able to move the lever either direction. Is the rest of the driveline attached? Rear driveshaft, rear diff and axles all in place? Front axles are connected and in good shape? Another thing that can cause a feeling similar to a slipping clutch is a slipping center differential, but that doesn't happen unless something in the transfer gears in trans is broken, or the rear driveshaft is gone, or an axle (any axle) or rear diff is broken.

By "front end damage" do you mean body damage or suspension damage? Or both?

When you bled the brakes did you push the pedal all the way to the floor at any point?

Wd-40 will destroy a modern cars grille. For bugs, glass cleaner and a microfiber rag work wonders. Some spots are chips from sand/rocks and are there to stay.

I used the Moog bolts in the bottom holes of the front struts. Breakage of a camber bolt is due to over or under-torquing the bolt on installation. Moog specifies 100ftlbs for the type of bolt I used. Factory bolt spec is 135.