Fairtax4me

Was any work done recently that might have knocked some wires around? Have your driving habits changed? Driving more highway miles that usually lately? If you reset the code does it come back right away?

Small coolant hose attaches to the coolant crossover pipe. Its kinda tricky to get that hose routed. If you use a generic peice of straight hose you need it to be about 2-3" longer than the original molded piece.

Not common, but it does happen. How many other things have you tried unplugging to see if it'll set codes? Fuel injectors should set codes right away. Dunno why I didn't think about those before.

There's a 10 or 12 digit Subaru part number on the ECU that you can try looking for on opposedforces parts site. How recently? Weeks? days? And how long have you owned the car?

Burned!! My point with the warranty question was, even if he does manage to file a "class action" suit, (does he know what "class action" means?) if he has off-roaded the car your warranty is void the day he bought it anyway, despite now being a year outside of the warranty period. Whatever happened with the first case here?

Pin 1&4 are ground control circuit to the ECU. ECU grounds those independently to fire the coils. If you have voltage at pin 2, there should be voltage at pins 1&4 as well. No voltage at those means either the coil is open inside, or the control cicruit is shorted to ground. Double check and make sure you have voltage at the coil on pin 2 while cranking. If yes, Unplug the coil and check resistance to ground on the wires for 1&4. If 0 resistance, go inside and unplug the ECU, then recheck. If still 0, wiring is shorted to ground. If now Infinite resistance, ECU is bad.

What do you mean you pulled it? Was it still plugged in? Won't set a code if its plugged in. Do you have 12v at the coil when cranking?

Time for new brakes I would say.

Doesn't your warranty state that off-road use voids the warranty?

Odd things happen with battery issues. Have you cleaned the battery terminals?

The throttle cable should not be under tension. There should always be slack in the cable or it will pull on the throttle lever and pull the throttle plate open. Hook the cable back on the lever properly. Adjust the cable tension so its just a little floppy.

If nothing else except the body is good, it's still worth $800. You can part out a clean car and make that back.

Yeah its kind of a tight spot up in there. How long is the section that you can't get to? Can you pull the wiring to one side or the other to see if/ where it's broken?

Problem is probably in the connector. Check voltage on each side of the connector. If there's no voltage past that just cut the red wire and splice in a new section to bypass the connector.

Speed signal is supposed to go to the cluster, and cluster converts it to a different signal that is sent to the ECU. Some years had problems with a solder joint on the speedometer unit in the cluster. Its fixable with some wire and a soldering iron. There is a thread here somewhere that shows how to fix it on a legacy. Could be similar on the Forester.

Are you testing spark with a regular spark plug or with an HEI type spark tester? A regular spark plug can spark at less than 1000v when its in open air. But under compression it takes 25-30,000v for the spark to jump that same plug gap. An HEI type tester has center electrode that is recessed, so the gap is has to jump is about 3/4" long. Takes about 20,000v to jump that size gap. If the coil is shorted, it can create enough voltage to jump the plug gap and to be visible in open air, but not enough to jump the gap under compression. It has the 4 pin coil right? Check for 12v reaching the coil on Pin 2. Should be a yellow wire. Pins 1&4 are primary coil ground to the ECU. Pin 3 goes to engine ground. Primary resistance should be about 0.7 ohms. Set your ohm meter to its lowest scale. Check pins 1-2 and 2-4.

Possibly the brake pad squealer touching the rotor. How old are the brakes?

Too hard to say based on very limited info on the printout. The thing that puzzles me about that is the Voltage reading says 12.9v. A battery at rest should not be above 12.6. That could indicate a damaged cell in the battery. If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage at the battery after it has sat overnight.

Don't use a knock sensor from another vehicle. Different sensors can be more or less sensitive and cause problems. If you need a cheap fix, wire a couple resistors together to make about 580k Ohms resistance, and connect that in place of the knock sensor. Cover it in heat shrink tubing or liquid tape to protect it from the elements. Just be sure to listen carefully for pinging (spark knock). Without the knock sensor the computer can't pull back the ignition timing to prevent spark knock, which could cause damage to the engine if it starts pinging all the time. If you notice it pinging, either switch to the next higher grade fuel, or replace the knock sensor.

Was the caliper bracket replaced with the caliper? Remove the caliper bracket and make sure there is no rust, scale, or dirt on the backing plate where the bracket mounts. If the upper slider pin is the non-bolt type, remove it and make sure it isn't bent.

Is the wear the same on both the inner and outer surfaces of the rotor? I've seen this one time, and it was due to defective rotors. The pads only made contact on the inner diameter of the rotor, but it was the same on both the inner and outer sides. What brand rotors did you buy? If there is another brand available I would try that.

Those spiffy rebuilt calipers won't look that pretty for long. Once the oil burns off that bare iron will be nothing but rust again in a day. Got any high temp paint? At 221 she's still got another 100k left in her... if you can keep the rust at bay.

The two bolts that secure the tensioner to the bracket would not thread in all the way? They should have a 12mm head and be about an inch in length. M8x1.5 thread IIRC.

What year is the car? How long have you been getting the code? Are you the original owner, and know with 100% certainty that the engine and/or computer have never been swapped?

Cross post. How much refrigerant did you add? When refilling from empty I've always put in two 12oz cans. System holds 21-25oz. If you're still seeing a lot of bubbles through the sight glass the system is still undercharged. Also when its cool out the core will freeze up much quicker. Try running the heat on full blast on recirculate for 10-15 minutes to heat up the cabin. Then run the AC with the windows up, on recirculate.