Fairtax4me

Exactly. The key word though: "Idle". Idle (throttle plates fully closed) fuel mixture in a carbed engine is rich, regardless of engine or air temp. More-so when the choke is closed. But idling at the fast idle setting opens the throttle plates, allowing more air to enter the carb. And once the choke opens the mixture will be the same at fast idle as it would be if driving. The only difference is what is holding the throttle plates open; Your foot, or the fast idle cam.

I don't think it will. Forester shares parts with the Impreza, both of them are similar to the legacy, but probably just different enough that it won't work. If the seller is close by you might ask if you can check the fit. Just hold it up under the car next to yours and compare.

Welcome to the USMB! We are truly international here! Italy, Honduras, France, Spain, USA, Canada, Australia, Japan, and more. We have members from all around the world.

Welcome to the board! Basically, any repair or information questions go in the General Subaru Tech Forum, which is divided into 3 sub-forums, based on the age of the car. The sub forums have descriptions which help with figuring out where to post about your specific model.

Letting it warm to normal operating temp shouldn't cause any harm per-se, but it will burn up more gas. I give mine about a minute or two, but drive it easy until it reaches operating temp. Everyone has their opinion about this, but any warm-up is 100 times better than a jackrabbit start.

Sounds good! Hopefully it lasts longer than the rest of the car!

Well then, If its legal in VA, I don't see any reason it would be illegal in WV.

Check fuses first. Then check for spark.

Glad to hear you found the problem! Car looks great! Are those some kinda huge canons in the background?!

I see people do it here all the time. Pretty sure it is illegal in VA though. IF it won't fit in the back (I'd be willing to bet it will), strap it to the roof. Shiny side up just like it would be if it was mounted to the car. Might need to remove the safety catch if it has one.

Just about any parts store will Scan the CEL for you in hopes that you'll buy the part to fix it while you're there. Honestly though, I don't see what you're worried about. If he drives it every day anyway, do an oil change and hit the road. Its a Subaru. Barring catastrophic failure (head gaskets, timing belt) it'll run just fine for the few days you'll spend on a road trip. Anybody wanna guess on the code? P0420 if you're lucky, maybe P0325 if you're not.

There are some easy options for homemade setups if you want to save some coin at the expense of aesthetics. The most popular that I've seen are coffee cans filled with any number of different types of "filter" media. Usually one or two chambers full of stuff like a fine mesh type of material such as those copper kitchen scrubbers, hardware cloth, or expanded sheet metal. Then another chamber with cotton or paper air filter media, with some room at the bottom for runoff and a drain plug. Using a PCV valve attached to the side of the container would keep liquid oil from being sucked into the engine. The basic idea is that the breather hoses are routed to the can, along with a source of fresh air. The PCV hose draws any leftovers out and burn it in the intake stream. You can design your catch to just introduce the drippings back into the sump to be circulated with the rest of the oil, or manually drain it at each oil change. Screw emissions. The most important reason for having a crankcase ventilation system is for air to circulate through the crankcase and pull oil vapor out. Oil vapor will collect in corners and turn to sludge. The vapor is mostly oil that is full of contaminants, such as water or gasoline, which have a lower "flash point" (boiling temperature). For the most part whatever "oil" is in the vapor is too far degraded to protect the engine properly anyway, so discarding it can prevent wear, but in small quantities, it does no more harm than starting the engine when it's cold. Proper oil change intervals will vastly decrease the chance of wear. A larger PCV valve by itself will help keep blowby to a minimum, by providing a larger source of vacuum to carry vapors out of the engine, preventing them from being forced out through the breather hoses into the intake. Search for Homemade oil catch can on google and you'll get like a million hits. NASIOC has a nice FAQ about it too, specifically for subaru.

That would be great if that's all it is! Not sure what sounds a starved pump makes, but that's definitely worth looking into.

Not that I know of. There are some transmission additives out there, Stop leak, stop slip that kind of thing, But none that really get rid of noises. If it's full of air it can make some noise. If the fluid level is too high it will cavitate and the fluid will foam. Foam causes problems in power steering pumps. A trans pump works basically the same. Do you check the fluid level with the engine idling, warm, in park, after shifting through all gears?

Wow, That really sucks! I'm pissed just reading about it! That's a lot of damn money! How do they mess that up though? It's not like Subaru exhausts are any different between any of the N/A engines are they? Except for single vs dual port anyway.

X2. If you have any male friends, one of them will have or will buy a video camera to make a video of a girl doing a burnout.

DO NOT PUT FRICTION MODIFIER IN AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek::eek: Friction modifier is designed to allow clutch type limited slip differentials to slip EASIER. It WILL destroy the clutches in an automatic trans. Think a few letters got cut off the end of your link URL. Was this the video? you linked? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5gZZqr3********* That noise, if it is being cause by the transmission, is likely the fluid pump. This is often caused by incorrect installation of the torque converter after an engine or trans removal. The trans might be hosed anyway. But there are a few other things that can make similar noises. Pulleys will whine if the bearings go bad. You can remove the accessory belts and start the engine to determine if any of the pulley bearings have failed. Timing belt idler bearings. These area bit more involved to check but they do often fail on engines with over 100k miles.

I don't think he meant to use just ATF. Just replace one quart of oil with a quart of ATF. There are other additives that work as well. Seafoam, MMO, Gunk motor flush, I think Lucas makes a cleaner now as well. See post #5.

Don't have a thread but you might find it in the FSM here: http://www.ludicrous-speed.com/automotive/impreza/fsm/Impreza_2005/

Full synthetic is far and away better than any of the high mileage synthetic blends. It has all the same detergents and conditioners, but lasts longer between changes. Just stick with the full syn. edit: You can find out anything and everything you ever wanted to know about oil, and then everything you don't know about it, at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/

Awesome! Now make a burnout movie and post it up!

Kerosene is too thin to protect the bearings and such. Mix it with a couple quarts of non detergent oil and it works great. But don't smoke around it. Diesel works good too. But with all the new oil mixes available today, all you really have to do is change your oil. Most of the "High mileage" mixes on the shelf at you local parts store contain cleaners that will remove and prevent sludge and varnish buildup. Combine with a quality filter such as Wix or Mann, and in a few changes (which you would have to do anyway) you have a squeaky clean crankcase. It won't get out everything, but neither will any of the other home brew or store bought mixes to clean engines. Short a complete tear down, its the next best thing.

What engine and transmission do you have? Sloppy idle and sluggish acceleration point more toward a vacuum leak. But periodic cleaning of the intake system and throttle body will help keep things running smoothly.

What he said. ^ Separator plate kit: http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=11564

Yeah, that sounds like a the flywheel is too light. You will get some "chugginess" below 1500 rpm under load. The weight of the flywheel will affect clutch engagement from a standstill more than anything, but you will also feel the effects of the lighter weight at lower rpm. Why it shakes the car probably some kind of balance issue, but if it's livable, then like you said it's not worth pulling the engine again to change it. There are people on here who swear by Delta Cams for getting more bottom end grunt out of the EJ. It might be something worth looking into if you have a lot of hills to traverse.