Fairtax4me

You might be able to find O ring sizes on one of the online OE parts sites. We have some valves in our parts bins at work but I don't think any will fit Subaru stuff. :-\

So I'm going to look at a 99 Outback, AT, 180k. Blown HGs, has been driven repeatedly overheated for about the past year. So the engine is "well done". Timing belt and other odds and ends done at 125k by local dealer. Decent tires, minor body damage scratches/scrape from a parking lot incident. Leather, but some dog chew marks. Dual roof. What do you guys say its worth? This might be a decent keeper, though I would prefer a manual trans. I'm after a wagon of some sort, I was actually looking for a Forester, but this one popped up for a seemingly decent asking price of $1,000. I figure if I wave some cash around he might come down another couple hundred.

The wagon John posted is the one I was taking about. Anything over 2 hours is just too far to drive for a look IMO. C-burg is ~1 hour. Hell, I'll go look at it for you if you want.

Of course I've been looking at all the non turbo stuff. That's why he is the Master! AND Commander!

Yeah with the O2 unplugged it won't run right, but if it runs better than it does now the sensor is probably bad.

What car did this engine come out of? I thought the early EJ22 had to have some other stuff off the EJ25 in order to be swapped. I'm no expert on EJ swaps though so I may be wrong. How about a compression test?

Well you've done a lot of work to it. When did this problem start? Is this an auto or manual trans?

Using that much might be because of a clogged PCV valve. Check that and clean/replace it. Check the PCV hoses for obstruction as well. How many miles on this thing? Some leaks tend to make oil puke out when driving but not when parked so no large puddles in the driveway. You have any blue smoke in the exhaust?

What I've been reading about building "Frankenmotors" is that the 2.2 and 1.8 heads are mostly the same, the biggest difference is the 2.2 heads flow better. So performance is better with the 2.2 heads. Search for Frankenstein or Frankenmotor and you will find some info about it. The most threads about it are on NASIOC though.

Kinda sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you check the breather hoses and the PCV? Is the hose for the idle control motor firmly attached at both ends? Did you do any work to the 22 before dropping it in? Timing belt? Separator plate?

X2. Common failure on these. Think its like $15-20 for a new sensor. About 20 minutes to change it.

I lost a practically brand new $160 Craftsman torque wrench somewhere a few years ago. Pretty sure it ended up in the back of an Escort wagon I sold for parts for $40.

I found an FSM for 03 Forester. Not sure how close that is but it's deffinitely different than the 05 Impreza and Legacy ones I have. There is also some stuff for other years here. 96 -01 GC, 04 STi, 05 and 06 GD... http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=85028b14c9ae76b17069484bded33bcdae3e49e4a65f3903

That doesn't mean it's never had an alignment. Most of the time thats when cam bolts get put on.

On the old ones it's not that bad, entirely doable inside the car. The only two seals that require the engine to be removed from the car are the Oil separator plate, and the rear main. But every oil leak on a Subaru eventually winds on on the exhaust, so it could be coming from anywhere. With a car that old it's probably a good idea to just pull the engine and reseal the whole thing but the majority of the seals can be done with the engine in the car.

Theres a 95 L Fwd wagon on CL. Auto trans though. 211k. But really the Fwd only gets 1 or 2 mpg better than the Awd. My 96 awd gets 33mpg consistently on 55-60mph highway trips.

The stock rear strut bolts are straight and don't allow camber adjustment. You have to buy a cam bolt kit if the camber needs adjustment. Sounds like yours probably has been replaced.

That's a lot of seemingly unconnected issues. What year was the engine from? Where was this car stored? I'm kinda thinking mouse damage. I just got another wild idea. Check under the dash on the drivers side for the green diagnostic connectors. Those should be left unplugged. If they're connected unhook them. Clicking solenoids and relays sounds like those two connectors are plugged together and the ECU is in self test mode.

I don't know about the autos but the manuals there's no way. I'm sure you can get the sensor out but the gear is another story. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Theres a FSM for 97 legacy in there. Same trans.

That is a heater circuit code which means there is either a bad connection at the sensor or at the ECU, or the sensor needs to be replaced. These new sensors work a bit differently than the old ones and I'm not entirely familiar with what goes on inside them yet, but the ECU monitors how much current is being drawn by the heater in the sensor. If it finds a problem it throws a code for it. There are several wires on the ECU for the O2 sensor. 05 FSM says pins A2 and A3 are for the heater circuit, both of those connect to pin 4 on the sensor harness connector. I can't seem to dig up an FSM for an Imp earlier than 05 though so I'm not sure how much this helps you. I'd say if anything, 04 is probably 90% chance gonna be the same, so look on the ECU connector for wires on pins A2 and A3. Those should be tied together somewhere near the ECU. I'll keep looking though to see what I can find. (I bookmark and/or download copies of all the FSMs I can find for reference. [/nerd])

I think they have an arrow or something that points out. The way you know it's right, is if the spring fits correctly. It's only really necessary on the fronts. The rears are easy to see how they go because the top hat is egg shaped. The skinny part goes out.

That will work, however, due to things like brake drag, drivetrain friction, etc, the wheels might not all spin at the same rate, even if you block two of them. Blocking wheels isn't all that bad if you have open diffs. You still get some torque transfer, but at idle speed you can hold a wheel still with your hand pretty easy. Not likely to roll off a set of jack stands unless you get carried away and gun the throttle. The better way to block wheels is with wheel chocks though. (read as: chock one side, jack up other side on sturdy jack stands.)

Yeah those look great! Bookmarked!

I know there's a wrecked 96 2.2 MT Legacy wagon in CAP. I think intake manifolds are like $25 plus core (couple dollars). Subaru manifolds aren't generally on the wish list for most people so if the engine is still in the car it usually has the manifold. That one was wrecked in the left front and the drivers side head was buried in the core support.

Can probably just get one from the hardware store, for a temporary fix at least. IF they have metric bolts. Did you try to loosen the bolt or the nut on the rears? The bolts get stuck pretty bad, but the nut is much easier to get loose if you can get a socket on it.