Fairtax4me

Sounds like our Saabs do when the plugs get fouled. Take it to the dealer, make them keep it until they find out what it is and fix it. If they won't do it, take it to another dealer.

Get a section of small tubing and cut a notch in the end of it. Instant valve core tool. I've had several of those that were just loose, a little twist and the leak stopped.

From what I understand, all of the EJ22 motors are non interference. I'm a sewb newb though so I may be wrong. I believe the engine ID tag is dead center on top of the block at the front. Get the numbers off that and post them.

Id do a leakdown test. That will tell you exactly what the problem is if it's compression related.

Are those actual Subaru part numbers? Because that's my new favorite website if they are. They come up with different part numbers. And there's a place under the listing for the stabilizer bar that appears to be which years the part was used and it says Stabilizer D=xx. I'm guessing that's the size in MM. There's a 1mm difference between all the fronts and all of the rears. Not sure how much difference 1mm will make. There might be a complete overhaul of the suspension in the works then.

Yeah, I don't normally recommend that "fix", but given the circumstances, I don't see how it would hurt to try it. Could just be something simple like a vacuum leak too so check all the hoses for splits.

Is there a difference in the size of the sway bars between the L LS LSi and GT models? I assume there is but I can't find anything that says exactly what the size difference is if any. The junkyard I go to charges $12 for a sway bar, and it would be so nice to get a little larger one on this thing to cut down on body roll.

Gut the cat and see if that fixes it. Can't hurt if you're gonna replace them anyway.

You need to have the evaporator core cleaned. The reason for it not blowing cold could be the actuator/flap is opening for some reason allowing hot air in form the heater core, or it might be that the charge is too high. Take it to an independent AC service shop and have them look at it. A lot of technicians know less than you might think about AC systems. You're better off having it serviced by a shop that specializes in AC.

First thing you should always do is make sure the battery and starter connections are clean and tight. Hook up a VOM to the ignition wire on the starter and verify that it gets power when the key is turned. When it does this, if you turn the key back to lock then turn it again does it then start? Or do you have to let it cool before it will start?

Well I don't think I need the whole intake. I'm just gonna make a trip to a junkyard about an hour for me and try to grab a few things, including a MAF sensor or two. There's still the possibility that there's nothing wrong with the MAF and that it just happens to die while I'm screwing around with that part of the car. It'll probably be two weeks at least before I know anything solid though. Plus since I haven't even paid for the car yet, its kinda dumb for me to be spending a bunch of money on parts already. Never stopped me before though...

If I remember right they tested one of those on Top Gear. Can't remember what it was called though. Or something that looked kinda like that anyway.

I haven't bought a manual yet but its on the list for sure. Haynes manuals aren't usually good for much besides torque specs and sometimes wiring diagrams. Half the time they don't even have a diagram for what I need. I prefer to get a factory service manual if I can. I popped the wires out of the plug and crimped the tabs together so they would make a nice tight connection and got no change out of it. Then I stripped off part of the insulation off the wires and found nothing but clean wire. No breaks or corrosion like I had expected. I'm thinking it must be an internal break in the MAF now, since it still seems to act up if I tug on the wires just right. :-\

To get the wheels off. Put the car on jack stands (don't leave it on the jack, because it could fall over). Take the lug nuts off and kick the tire a few times. (you might have to kick kinda hard) That's a lot more common than you might think, and it just takes some elbow grease to pop them loose is all. How much is the car worth? That depends on how much it's worth to you. If you like the car and want to keep it, then its probably worth fixing.

No CEL? Sounds like a bad O2 sensor to me. Unplug the upstream sensor and see if that fixes it.

I just couldn't ever figure in my head how they would make gears that move in such a way that the ratio is constantly changing. Never occurred to me that maybe it didn't use gears. But I agree, I'd like to see how long these will stay on the road before I go plopping money on the barrel for one.

Coolant is not what makes the AC work. The AC system uses refrigerant. More specifically R134A in any vehicle produced in or after 1994(?) for the US market. This "switch" that they're talking about is a pressure switch located usually somewhere on the high pressure line. In cold weather this switch prevents the AC system from being turned on in order to protect the system from damage due to ice buildup. Not ice from winter storms, Ice that builds on/in the lines, and accumulator/drier, and on the outside of the evaporator core. When the pressue inside the system is too low (cold weather or the refrigerant has leaked out) the switch prevents the AC compressor from turning on. You have two options. You can get a recharge kit from an auto parts store. Or (and I'd suggest you do this one) take it to a qualified AC shop or the dealer to have the system serviced. There is also the possibility that there is a problem with the clutch on the compressor, which is why you should take it to a shop to have it checked out.

The transmission is not your average automatic that's for sure. Always wondered how CVTs worked. There's a neat video on Subaru's website showing how it works. http://www.subaru.com/vehicles/legacy2010.html Look in the photo gallery

It's not uncommon for new engines to smoke during their break in period, but breaking in new rings should take less than 1000 miles. Unless its a big diesel engine for your tractor trailer truck that we're talking about... Have you spoke with your Lawyer about this? That should be your next step, unless CCR decides to fix this REAL soon.

Probably the ignition module.

Try Rockauto.com. I know they have trailer harnesses listed.

Well I have managed to duplicate the problem three times by pulling on the wire harness for the MAF in just such a way. So it's either a loose connection or internal break in the wire. Gonna call the Soob dealer tomorrow and see what a new pigtail will cost. I work for a sister store of the same company, getting parts at cost rules! Thanks for the help guys!

Did you get anything besides misfire codes from the CEL? (assuming that you had it scanned) Have you tried pulling the plug wires off the 1&2 to see if they're still getting spark when this happens?

I've tried wiggling every wire harness I can get my hands on under the hood. I did smack the main relay a few times, the yellow one under the dash next to the steering column I think is the right one? It had the biggest wires, so I just assumed. Where is the fuel pump relay located? I'll try it, but I kinda doubt that's the problem. It's not like it sputters and coughs a second before it quits, it just straight up quits like I turned the key off. Fuel filter looks new. It's not coated in gravel dust like everything else. I believe the MAF has been recently replaced as well. The intake tube wasn't clamped tightly to the sensor, and it was also a lot cleaner than the rest of the engine compartment. And theres a mark on it like it came from a junkyard. I'm guessing they replaced it and it didn't fix the problem. Is there somewhere I can find a wiring diagram for the MAF harness so I can poke around with my VOM and see if it's losing power when this happens?

Old thread I know, but if you haven't had this fixed yet, it's probably a bad release bearing. Transmission (or engine) has to be removed to get to that.