Fairtax4me

There's a test that can be done to the coolant (I don't remember what its called) to determine if exhaust emissions are getting into the cooling system. A good shop should be able to test that for you. Chances are though, that if it's overheating, it's due to a bad head gasket.

I'm gonna guess that its a faulty pressure switch, or compressor clutch relay. Both of those are fairly easy to test with a multimeter. To do a quick test of the relay, just swap it with another relay in the under hood fuse panel like the fan relay and see if it starts working normally again.

That would be because they're hot and enough of the oil that may have been on them has burned away that you don't see any "wet" spots. It's also less likely that you'll see oil that has dripped from the top, on the bottom of the pipe unless there's a REALLY bad leak. You can see what I'm taking about for yourself if you spray the pipe with wd-40 or just drip some oil from a bottle onto the pipe when its cold. Start the engine and let it warm up while you watch the smoke show. After it gets good and hot you'll see the oil start to disappear. The main source of leaks in that vicinity would be the valve cover gasket, but the cam seals do tend to leak, especially the rear passenger side because it's just an O ring seal.

A hub bent bad enough to see a difference would make the wheel wobble so bad you'd think your teeth were gonna rattle out. It's entirely possible to have a bent strut, but more than likely the camber just needs to be adjusted. Which any alignment shop can easily do for you.

Like 98sub said, you might be OK you might not. There are a lot of factors involved that could determine whether you make it or not. When I was about 12 I was on a trip with my family and about 60 miles from home (we had just left) the alternator in our van went kaput. It was night, and we made the 60 mile trip back to the house without any trouble. The headlights were kinda brown but still on and everything was functional. Fast forward ten years, I'm leaving for work one morning in my 97 STS. Get about a mile from my house and all the warning lights in the dash pop on, voltage meter is dropping quick, and as I pull into the lot at work, exactly 3 miles from my house to my job btw, the car quit. Battery was only 6 months old.

Usually the maximum run out that you want is gonna be about 0.005". Anything above that and you'll start to feel it. I'd say if you find any spot that is more than about .008" - .010" wider than the thinnest spot on the rotor than you probably will want to turn them.

Knock sensor code, probably due to a bad knock sensor. I bet the EGR valve is partially plugged as well and is sticking.

Try this. When you notice it doing this. At the next intersection put the gear lever in 1st gear. Wait a few seconds, then go around the corner. When was the last time you had the transmission fluid changed/flushed? (if ever)

If you have a caliper you can measure the width of the rotor in a dozen or so places around the circumference of the disc and see if there is a certain place where its thicker. You could also check the run out if you have the right rig to do that with. Either way would tell you if the surface of the rotor is out of spec.

Get the CEL checked before you go blaming it on a bottle of additive. I think you're making this out to be a much bigger deal that it really is. Smoke doesn't "eminate out" from inside the exhaust. Unless you've got a huge exhaust leak in which case it would be really loud since it would be right next to the engine. If there were a problem with the rings/head gasket/valve stem seals, something of that nature allowing oil to leak into the combustion chamber, there would be a big blue cloud of smoke following you everywhere you drive. It sounds to me like an external leak at the valve cover seals, which might be being made worse by a plugged PCV valve. The PCV/breather system lets excess pressure out of the crankcase. If that pressure has no where to escape to it starts to push oil out through old/worn seals. When you turn the engine off that pressure goes away, and the oil stops leaking. The pipes are still hot so any oil that drips out onto them burns away for the most part.

Its not that they're warped, they just not "flat" anymore. Where the rotor is exposed, more of the surface is "eaten away" by rust. Under the pads the effect is not as bad because less oxygen can get to that area to oxidize the surface. So you end up with a high spot on the surface of the rotor. It's not a huge difference, but it's enough to notice when you hit the pedal.

Does this happen if you come to a complete stop and wait a few seconds before making the turn?

Yeah, The Subaru stuff is just a HOAT antifreeze. You'd actually be fine to run the regular green stuff, (phosphate silicate, ethylene glycol based) Just be sure to change it every 2 years. Basically the only thing it doesn't have over the new "long life" stuff, is the long life.

Does this car have rear drum brakes?

The hubs are pressed into the bearings, which are pressed into the knuckle. If you take the axle nut off, the wheel isn't going anywhere unless your bearing is toast. With the exception of the rear wheels on a FWD model. It's really more of a pain than its worth to pull the front axles though. You're gonna have to get a tow rig anyway, whether you rent a dolly or a frame mounted setup to pull it with. Just put it on a dolly and save yourself a lot of trouble.

We deal with this quite often at work (car dealership) most often on our used cars. Usually it goes away after being driven really hard a few times. If not you'll have to have the rotors turned.

I've always had good luck with Gates brand belts and hoses. The Fel-Pro stuff is kinda hit or miss. Depends on the application.

Did you bother to spin the input shaft on your "new" transmission before installing it?

If you know the general Idea of what you're looking for use google. Works 95% of the time.

Sounds to me like its working fine. Is it not cold? The Click you hear is the sound the clutch makes when it engages. There is also a relay for the clutch driver (the magnet) that you may hear click on and off. The power loss is normal. That compressor takes a lot of power to turn. We're talking about a gas that is already pressurized to about 125 - 150psi when the system is just resting, and its being compressed even more (~250psi or higher) when the compressor is turning.

Timing belts off. Read up on positioning the pulleys and re-check the marks. Big time issue, apparently Subaru made it too hard for normal people like us to figure out how to set it right the first time. I've not done a TB job yet, but I've read so many threads about them here, its not even funny how often people get it wrong.

In my experience most TPS codes are because of a dead spot in the sensor. This can cause the engine to surge or not respond at all. Its not hard to replace it, but you should post the actual code here for some further information before you go buying one.

What do you mean by "lost 5th"? Will it not go into 5th? Does it go in but then pops right back out? Does it stay in but when you give it gas the engine just revs but you get no go? Yes and no. Technically its a Transaxle. But either way ,automatic or manual, transmission or transaxle, it's what transmits the rotary motion of the engine to the rest of the drive system (transfer case, differentials, axles, etc.) .

Some good useful info about antifreeze. http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/antifreeze_coolant.htm And a link to an Endwrench article about Subaru cooling systems. They explain the difference about subaru antifreeze http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/CoolMay05EW.pdf

Cleaning the MAF is easy and costs $5. Might as well start there. Does it do the same thing if you accelerate hard (put it on the floor) on flat ground?