Fairtax4me

Really depends on how much you like the car as to if its worth fixing or not. Though to be honest, at 200k, and having all the trouble that the car has, it's probably best to scrap it. There are plenty of others out there in good shape for less than it would cost to fix everything that's wrong with yours. The collapsed hose is just an indicator of bubbles in the cooling system. (air, exhaust, etc.) Foam in the coolant is a sign of a head gasket failure.

He just did an incomplete job, possibly on purpose. He may have replaced the belt, or he may not have. Doesn't matter either way. If you have one of these engines apart for head work, you replace the water pump, timing belt, and all of the idler pulleys. That way you don't have to do it all over again in 10k miles when one of the pulleys locks up. More than likely, he knew this and is just trying to get more money out of you, in which case, you take it to another shop. On the flip side, maybe he didn't know this, in which case, he doesn't know what he's doing, so you should still take the car to another shop.

I have a new lead. CEL popped on last night after driving down some gravel roads on the way home. Scanner pulled a P0106 Map/Baro sensor circuit/range/performance.

It's not that difficult. You just need a VOM. Connect to pin 24 and pin 25 at the ECM connector (under glove box on passenger floor pan) and adjust it to approx. 0.50V reading at the connector.

Is it possible for you to get your hands on the ECU from the car the engine came out of?

A bad temp sensor would either cause the ECU to deliver excess fuel to the engine thinking that the engine hadn't yet warmed up (running rich, which could cause driveability issues). OR it will tell the ECU that the engine is warm all the time even when it's actually cold which will cause hard cold starting issues. There are two Temp sensors. One is a sender or switch for the gauge/light in the cluster. The other is a sensor for the ECU. The one for the ECU will have two wires. That is the one that the ECU has determined to have an issue.

So basically nything with the Zexel compressor will not have it. Mine doesn't have anything there, neither did any of the Legacies I looked at in the junkyards the past couple trips. All in the 94 - 99 range.

If its still the same block as the one in my 96 (I don't see why that would have changed, but you never know) there are two good places for it right by the seam of the bell housing. Just find an appropriate sized bolt for the threads and put it in either of those spots.

I can get 30 on the highway out of my 96 sedan 5 speed if I'm doing about 55-60. Interstate driving it runs almost dead on 3000 rpm at 70. I'd have to guess it's about 27 mpg at that speed.

Hard to say, but your next move should be to pull all of the rod caps and check for wear. If that turns up clean, you might want to split the block ad make sure your mains are in good shape.

Take it to a muffler shop and have a new fitting welded in, or replace the pipe.

Looks like they're one and the same. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_16/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_injector/illustration_1/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/16611AA34A/ Click the Usage Information link to see which years had that part.

There might not be a tag on these cars. I'm used to American cars, and they almost always have a tag under one of the cover bolts on the differential that has the ratio and a few other numbers stamped on it. I can't find any info about transmission gear ratios, but from what i've seen most 4 cylinder cars have a .85 - .80:1 overdrive gear.

Yeah, you don't want to end up like that Jeep commercial. :-p

This is good to know. Any way to tell what years had/have this sensor?

Use a spark tester to see if the misfire is really due to lack of spark. A clogged or faulty fuel injector will also cause a misfire. You could have a vacuum leak, bad O2 sensor, dirty MAF sensor, the list goes on.

I've bought it at Radio shack before, but that was long ago. I would imagine an electronics specialty store would have some. Or you could just make some with aluminum foil as was previously suggested.

Soak it with PB blaster or equivalent for at least 2 hours before you try to remove it.

Some agency did a study not long ago IIRC that determined the "new car smell" to be detrimental to the mental health of newborn children. Not sure if there were any physical illnesses attributed to it, but I'm sure that if it isn't good for children, it's just as bad for adults, though the effects may not be as acute. Usually I don't mind the smell, but on some new vehicles it's just overwhelmingly strong, even with the windows down.

Find another bolt close by, and put it there. The type of knocks that the sensor is tuned to listen for will resonate throughout the engine block with the same strength pretty much anywhere on the block.

There's usually a metal tag that has some numbers on it. That would have the size of the ring gear and the ratio on it.

Not necessarily. Small leaks are often "covered up" by the idle air control valve. It can adjust enough to keep the same or near the same idle speed as without the leak, and you might never notice it. To test the booster. Run the engine for a few seconds at normal temp, then turn it off. Press the brake pedal a few times. It should be easy the first two or three times, then should get stiff. Restart the engine and let it build vacuum. Cut it off and wait 5 minutes. Now pres the brakes a few times again, in the same manner as before. If the pedal gets stiff sooner, or is stiff on the first press, the booster or check valve is leaking.

1. There is a smaller cable that runs from the positive on the battery to teh under hood fuse panel. This is the same panel that all of the relays are housed in so it wont be hard to find. 2. It isn't any different. But all the rest of the lead wires for the electrical components under the hood come from that area. This one is a stumper for sure. I'd suggest you go buy a length of shielded wire and see what happens with that. Keep in mind the shielding should be connected to ground to get the proper effect. One more thought... this lead wire is fused isn't it?

Well, tossed another MAF in it, and it doesn't seem to have fixed it. It isn't doing it quite as often, BUT, its also about 15 degrees cooler today than it was friday and saturday when it was really bad. I guess the front pipes of the exhaust system on these cars rust out really often, not a single legacy in the JY had the front pipes. So no O2 sensor to try on this trip. I did get a knock sensor that looked relatively new, and an ignition module just for kicks. I'll give those a shot since neither is difficult to swap. I'm kinda starting to wonder if it's a fuel issue. The past week or so it seems to take longer and longer to start when cold. When the engine is warm it will fire up in about a second. But on cold starts it's taking up to 5 seconds of cranking now before it will fire.

It's arguable. Some cars it can help a bit, some cars it does nothing at all. Most fuel injected cars, holding the pedal at WOT while cranking will disable the fuel injectors so the cylinders can clear of excess fuel. Line up the marks and zip tie the belt to the cam pulleys so that it can't jump. Place the belt so that all of the slack is between the crank pulley and the drivers side cam pulley. It should not be loose anywhere else or it will pull the driver side cam counter clockwise when the tensioner is let loose.