Fairtax4me

OUCH!

What did you hit, how fast, and what is the car doing that makes you suspect something else is bent?

Yeah people used to test clutches by pulling the car up to a big tree, set the parking brake put it in 4th gear and rev the engine then rip out the clutch. If the car stalled right away the clutch was good. Not such a good idea on newer cars though, plastic bumpers don't hold the car back as well as the old steel bumpers did. Instead what you can do is drive down the road at about 40 mph in 4th gear. Push the clutch in rev the engine and rip it back out. Engine speed should go right back to normal cruising speed in that gear almost instantly. If the engine "rides" back down before clutch grabs then it's probably pretty close to needing replacement. A broken or cracked release fork is also a possibility as Lost has suggested. But either way I think its gonna come down to removing the engine or trans to get a better look at things.

Your clutch could be getting ready to shred itself. Does this happen after it has rained? You know how to test the clutch right? Pull up to a tree...

I never said to do it while its on the car. :-p Although if you filled the tank with gas all the way to the very top of the tube you could. (maybe)

I don't see this as a big deal. I've never replaced one on any car that I've ever owned. But I've never had one that leaked either (even if there were plenty of other seals that did). I guess if it starts to look wet around the drain plug then replace it on the next change.

I guess I've just been around cars for too long. I can't figure how anyone would have a hard time finding an AC compressor. Especially under the hood of a Subaru. But you got it all fingered out now so it's all good. Re-charging with the kits they sell in parts stores is done through the low side fitting. Most of the time an AC system that is not working is just in need of a recharge.

This car have a cable operated clutch or hydraulic?

Fluid is probably low. Change it again, and make sure you check the fluid level with the engine/trans warm and in park with the engine running. Shift through all gears before checking the level.

Which would work fine, except that's not the way it's allowed to work. Legally the driving lights have to turn OFF when the high beams are turned ON.

Trans oil cooler will be in the side of the radiator. Drivers side end tank IIRC from looking at cars in the junkyard. There will be two small hoses (1/2" dia.) one about 1/4 of the way form the top, the other down near the bottom for the transmission fluid. It's pretty easy to check with a vacuum gauge, or a cooling system pressure tester. You'll need to remove the lines, and apply vacuum to one side or the other while the opposite side is capped closed. Or you can remove the lines and put pressure in the cooling system and watch for antifreeze to drip from the lower line. I found a picture.

JB weld, fuel tank repair epoxy. You could even solder/braze a patch on if you're really good with a torch. JB is quicker though.

All the parts seem to be the same from 94 to about 98 so I'd imagine the capacity should be the same.

It can only go as fast as the tires will let it without blowing out.

So the green wire has voltage at all times when the switch is on. Did you check the white wire for continuity to ground when the highs are on? I'm thinking its something like this. They've got this drawn up with marker lights but it can work with any bulbs just the same. The purpose of this is to make the side marker alternate blinking with the front turn signal bulb. Normally the side marker is just on solid. By cutting the ground of the side marker and splicing that into the signal wire of the front marker/turn signal bulb, the side marker light grounds THROUGH the bright filament of the signal bulb. For some reason (I'm not well enough educated about electricity to explain how this works) the side marker will light and the bright signal bulb will not. But once the turn signal is turned on, the signal bulb lights, which I guess cuts the ground path of the side marker bulb, which then turns off. And the bulbs alternate blinking. Maybe there is some circuitry similar to this with the high and low beam bulbs in your car.

If they told everyone how to use it properly they wouldn't make as much money on people coming back to buy more after screwing it up the first time.

Yeah that's normal for the lights to come on if the engine stalls. I'm gonna guess at maybe a broken or jumped timing belt. Unless you've had it replaced in the last 20k miles?

Probably have to remove the wood trim under neath the vents, and on the other side by the ignition switch. Sometimes you have to remove the lower kick panels first in order to do that even. Behind that wood trim there should be a few more screws for that cluster panel. Oh and if your steering wheel isn't adjustable you might need to drop the column to get access to remove the cluster.

It should say on a sticker under the hood. My 96 takes 0.6 - 0.7 kg. About 24oz.

You can run a line from the dimmer switch under the dash, or the high beam relay to a normally closed relay. When the highs are switched on the relay cuts power to the relay you have wired up for the lights.

Pull the vacuum line off of the Fuel pressure regulator and make sure its dry inside.

How many miles? Is it an auto trans? Has it ever overheated? Oil in the coolant isn't a good sign. Usually that means a head gasket, which isn't common on the 22. But it could also be a leak in the transmission oil cooler which is inside the end tank of the radiator.

Mah bad. I was thinking the rear seals on the 2.2. Use a very thin film of assembly lube on the bearing surface and wipe the sealing surfaces with alcohol or brake cleaner before applying the sealant.

Take it out and lay in on perfectly flat ground, like a garage floor. Its possible to bend a sway bar, but probably not without being in a good accident first. I think you'd have to get both wheels at full travel in opposing directions to bend one noticeably.

You have to remove all traces of oil and grease for any sealer to work. The end caps should not need any sealer because they're silicone/rubber. (something like that) You don't put sealer on rubber gasket/seal material because its supposed to seal itself. Use sealers for metal to metal only. Clean all of the sealer off, and put the end caps back in.