jrettenmayer

Yep...mine is from a '90 automatic lego.

ever figure out your problem?

How did you "reground" the VSS?

I've got the same problem with my swap...VSS is hooked up, but I didn't do anything special to ground it. I tapped into the wiring coming from the gauge cluster - I guess I assumed the VSS is grounded through the cluster. How should it be wired up?

Is that the same sensor that's bolted to the passenger side strut tower, or am I thinking something different?

What are the pressure sensor/solenoid for?

It did have cruise. Looks like I have some more wiring to do...yay!

Interesting...what does the capacitor do for the noise?

Also have a copy of the loyale instrument panel wiring diagrams if you want that.

If you want, I have a copy of the factory service manual in .pdf for a 90 legacy. You can figure out all the wiring from that pretty easily.

This switch has 4 terminals - I used an ohmmeter to figure out that it can is always open on two terminals and always closed on 2 terminals, depending on what position the switch is in. So, if the plunger on the switch is all the way out, one set of terminals is open and the other closed. When you depress the plunger, the first set is closed and the second is open. Does that sound like it will work? I haven't tried it yet, but it seem is I should be able to just wire it up so that when the clutch pedal is at the top of its travel (plunger in), I can use the terminals that are open at that point, and when I depress the clutch, the switch will close and ground Pin 10 on B58. Sound reasonable, and feasible?

5 ohm resistor?

I did upgrade my grounds, both from the block to the battery, and from the chassis to the battery. The EA has shielded cable for some of it's sensors and I cut and spliced it in one section, so there is a spot that is not shielded - I'm thinking this is the source of my noise perhaps. I dunno, but if it is, I guess I'll just have to live with it.

I don't have any speakers other than the crappy stock speakers and I still have the crappy stock head unit too. The noise wasn't there before I did the EJ swap....I cleaned up/redid some of the grounds in the engine compartment, which helped the noise a bit. Someone mentioned grounding the fuel pump to itself (the chassis), so I might try that too. I don't think it's got a super ground right now, so I could probably improve that a bit.

Sounds good. Fortunately, I decided to save the brake light switch from the Legacy I tore apart to get all the goodies for my EJ swap...it looks like it should just bolt right in.

That said, I'd like to see your schematic. And pictures of the bumper/blinkers, too!

You could just add a resistor before the blinker...that would slow down the blinking and make it visible. I dunno what size off the top of my head, but it probably wouldn't be too tough to figure out either.

I saw the bolt - looks like there is maybe a spot to put some sort of switch also at the bottom of the clutch movement. As for the switch, do I need both the neutral switch AND the clutch switch, or will just putting in a clutch switch and bypassing the neutral switch do the trick? I'm hoping i can just connect pin 10 on B58 through the switch and to ground that will do the trick...

After reviewing some wiring diagrams, it appears that the clutch switch activates the neutral switch? My wiring came from a legacy with an automatic transmission, so I don't have either switch. Where is the neutral switch located on the Legacy? Does anyone know if the EA has something similar that i can use? How have others gotten around this problem?

I have the diagnostic plugs (well, one of them, the other is MIA), but no CEL wired up. How do you suggest I fix the problem? wire in a clutch switch?

Hey everyone, I have a 90 EJ22 swapped into my 86 GL - engine runs great! Having never owned a subaru before this, it's been interesting figuring out all the little bugs that have come up since the swap. My most recent bug: When decelerating (i.e. coming up to a stop light and depressing the clutch, or slowing down to make a turn), the engine RPM will drop very low and then die. Does not happen all the time, or if I tap the throttle a little bit and sort of "control" the RPM drop down to idle then it's fine. And, it idles fine. The engine, wiring, ecu came from an automatic, though as I understand, it doesn't matter. I checked Pin 20 on B48 (found in another post - supposed to tell the car whether it's a manual or auto) and it is grounded - to the engine. Not sure where to go from here. Ideas? I thought perhaps it was in need of a surge tank, but I am also under the impression that it's the E81 cars that need those. I filled the tank but the stalling still occurs. Car will fire right back up after the stall. Anyone else have a problem like this? The search function turned up some info, but couldn't find this specific problem.

If you email me, I can send you the 1990 Legacy FSM wiring diagrams in a .pdf. Those should get you a lot closer.justin.rettenmayer@gmail.com The oil pressure sensor is green/while, and it's pin #9 on connector E2. The temp sensor is white/green, and it's pin #10 on the same connector.

They should be identified by shape and color on the bottom of the FSM pages.

It's a humming sound. I'm going to try changing the ground for the fuel pump today and see if that helps. Where do you guys usually ground your fuel pump?

Well, I fixed up a couple of grounds, including the one from the front drivers side of the block to the battery, and also ran the grounds for the IGN relay and the select monitor out and grounded them to the block, right where the NEG battery cable grounds. The noise is still in the speakers, though it's reduced somewhat, and everything seems to work a little "better" - lights seemed a little brighter, engine seemed a little more peppy... I'll check into the fuel pump. I grounded that to the chassis, and specifically to a screw under the rear seat. Where do others typically ground the fuel pump?