john40iowa

The muffler on my '99 Forester is rapidly deteriorating- Rusting around where the tail pipe meets it. The car is very loud and I don't want to be pulled over in some of the uppity towns we drive through. Is there a tape patch for this problem? I understand it's only temporary fix, but is it worth a try? The car seems to have more power this way, or am I imagining it do to the noise. Thanks for any pointers.

I saw someone posted about the stock ones awhile back, something about $35.00 a side. I thought I could get one side make it work. A graphics company would likely do a good job, but, in this town wouldn't mess with piddly job like this and my hours are such no time is available to run around. It may just have to rust in peace.

I am ready to get a body decal for my Forester, to cover repairs over the real wheel fender areas. I don't think the '99 even was offered with a decal. So, I would be willing to work with the Outback if Necessary. Does anyone know the part number for an Outback decal? Preferably dark Silver to black if possible. I posted something about this awhile back and someone wisely suggested getting generic decals and having a graphics company laser cut them. Great idea, but I no time available for that. I just want get a Subaru decal and cut it myself where it doesn't look too ghetto. Thanks in advance!

Thanks, But I did have duplicate made and it does nothing but open the door. I need a computer coded key. Also I have the original worn some, key which still works.

That's what I wondered; though, I have done business with online dealers for several years, who know me well.

Last week I lost my key- Stupid I know. I don't really like going to the local dealership. Could I order one from an on-line Subaru dealer? I can get the key cut myself, what is needed is the coded key blank. John

My car looks almost identical to Nippers, minus a decal. I will do as prescribed above- found the Rust Mort today on line. My goal is not to keep a like new car, but rather a respectable daily driver for maybe 7 more years. The rest of the car runs and looks great. Thanks to all for the pointers.

Yes indeed, I stated the car wasn't even worth that much money. He explained this was for a perfect all new sheet metal , basically factory blended into the body. I tried to tell him my daily driver is loved, but not a show car. He said and I believe it, people spend a lot on patch and then come back six months later complaining of new rust.

I noticed recently behind the rear wheels around the lip of the wells- body exterior there is rust bubbles. They are maybe about two inches in diameter total, and about the same for both sides of the car. I took it to a body shop today and they would only do a total sheet metal replacement, which would cost $3500.00 per side. They recommend against patching a painting, as rust might reappear in the general area. It being a '99 would obviously be too old to justify major work. I am thinking about sanding the area myself, patching it and applying a decal (no decals on presently on this Forester). Any pointers on finding really good decals? Thanks

Ok Thanks!

My friend needs a rear gate bike rack for her Outback. Is there one available and does anyone know the part number? Thanks, John

I don't want to cause a debate about it; however, I just used the heavy duty Fram filter on my Forester. Putting it on myself it seemed much more substantial then their basic filter. Or, I am real trouble, should not wait for the next oil change to jettison it?

Hey thanks, I might just do it.

We had a bad, wet and snowy Winter here. We I finally got around to cleaning the car I discovered the OEM mat left a black pin dot residue on the tan carpet. I had over the carpeted mat a plastic deep pocket mat and suspect some moisture made its way under the carpeted one causing it to degrade a bit. I could care less about the carpeted floor mat. I would like to learn how to remove the black spots from the carpet. Today I tried steam cleaning it out and a regular over the counter spot remover; only small fraction of the stain was removed. Is there a heavy duty product that might work? Thanks for any pointers

I took my '99 Forester two weeks ago for it's third Windshield replacement (over 11 years). Today the driver's side pillar molding flew off on the Freeway. The glass shop I go to is really awesome and would replace it without argument; however, at this point I look at it at a wear item and want to put a new one on myself. It looks fairly easy, but is there a best method here? Does the top slide in first or the base? Thanks for any pointers

Also Check your seat movement (tracks). I had this happen once- small dent in the bumper, but the seat was inoperative and unrepairable.

I have the one cup listed on Ebay in mine; it looks flimsy whimsy, but always works OK.

Do another Ebay search under Subaru Forester- they have one (gray) listed.

I do mine every year; the overflow is not really sealed and gets very cruddy over time.

If your asking the work part of it, it is very easy. At least on my Forester, you simply pry off the old one and put in new one by aligning the clip retainer to the appropriate spots and place firmly back in; poof your done. While it off it might be a good time to grease the wiper mechanism.

Today I Took a good look under the hood; sure enough a vacuum line was not loose from the cruise control. All it is working normally again! Thanks for the advice.

Dealer price, sounds about right for a quality, good condition unit to me; you will also pay a little more this time of year for any all wheel drive vehicle. My is the '99 Forester, and is very similar to the 2001. I would buy another one in heartbeat. To read some posts about the 2.5 engine here, you might think it came from Ty won and every one em is doomed. I have not found that to be the case at all, nor, I has mine had the infamous head gasket leak; moreover, my original wheel bearings are still perfect despite some really rough episodes they've had to contend with. I have some problems, but who wouldn't with a 10 year old car carrying 170K city miles on it's back. Best wishes on your search!

It's Automatic Transmission; I will post the solution once fixed. John

Thanks for the advice; by," brake pedal," I assuming it has something to do with the working mechanism above the pedal? It might have to wait a week or two, as I am not used to these frigid temperatures and it's hard on things to work on em outside- my friend's Honda needed a fuse checked and the cover clips broke like nothing was there.

No lights on dash board; too cold to check fuses, I will when it warms up.