john40iowa

[QUTE=Boneyard;1060470]I made a rookie mistake and didn't check the oil (didn't see any leaks or lights), and I was five miles short of my destination this weekend when my check engine light came on, engine lost power, started rattling, and the oil light started flashing. I was in the left lane on I-5 and no one would let me over, so I probably went a mile before I could pull over. I am pretty sure I threw a rod, so my questions are: about how much will this cost if I just have to replace the rod(s)? If I have to replace the engine? What are the odds of having to replace the engine? How long does a repair like this usually take? Finally, how big of an a$$ am I for not checking the stupid oil? (Answer: HUGE). Thanks Car: 2003 Baja, 78k, just made first payment (ouch) Sounds like the engine is toast, sorry to say. Subarus don't usually use oil and I bet something was wrong. It might be worth try to plead the case with your dealer. A rebuilt engine may be your best bet, 3K or so for a solid unit, depending on where you go of course. After you or your mechanic get the engine one day should easily cover an install. Your bank might also help u with additional money on top of your loan. Been there myself good luck to you.

http://www.quality-trans.com/faq/faq6.htm It looks ominous, but who knows. Self correcting can happen with luck...

That doesn't sound so bad for car that paid for. Thanks

What is the ballpark on replacement if they're not under recall?

My Forester's look little rusty (think dust) but nothing close to the photo here. How bad is it when the break?

slight off topic, but has anyone noticed how much the new Ford Escape resembles a Subie.

I would try the professional flush. Recently the '08 Toyota work vehicle I drive was starting to slip in third and dark fluid. Anyhow, we got flushed and so far so good. You can always go to plan C if it doesn't work. Good luck! My Subie has about 200K all original tranny and I like the full synthetic fluid a lot!

too much hassle to change for risk. OEM for me

I had an olds that wasn't given proper maintenance. Anyhow the cooling was "Flushed," and this helped the radiator but opened up a small hole in the heater core. It seems like the shop used some kind of liquid stop leak and this lasted the four years I used the car.

And, keep a record of whom you talked to, what was agreed to, etc,. This can help you later if follow up is needed; you might also try the salesman that actually sold you the car- maybe a long-shot, but sometimes they actually do want your business and will go above and beyond.

Thanks. Sorry to ask a dumb question, but what is procedure for changing the belts on the 2.5 SOHC. I have done belts but never on Subie.

If you don't happen on an answer here, a good Subaru parts manager might help.

My 'Forester is on its original Alternator, fuel pump and starter. I am pretty happy about that! I do change my battery religiously about every 5 years regardless of performance. It probably doesn't make a lot of difference but I turn everything (accessories) off before I start the car, I plug it's block heater in both at home and work; keep the entire enigine itself very clean. It is approaching 200K, mostly in town miles.

It is funny how some of us get our first cars. I drove it safely in the cornfield for months until I could get my temporary permit; then my parents got divorced and fought over who could me the el camino (cheville malibu edition) and get the credit for it. I believe my Mom long before me had the '65 or so Bel Aire (I think this model) but I know it was a rust free California car and convertable. That car I wish would have survived for me to preserve.. True story.

my elco was a '68 and had 350 4brl with glass packs and factory air. What a fun car for 17 year old! Still I wouldn't trade my reliable Subaru for anything..

When I took the carpet out for replacement to the Forester there's a lot a junk just siting there. Without the carpet it would have to be protected;My Sister ordered some kind of mat liner for her Escape. It is heavy plastic and matched the floor pan exactly. No carpet is exposed and thus no odor problem in the Winter. Just something to consider.

If it were me and money was in an issue, Just for peace of mind, I would do the valve cover gaskets- should be under a hundred dollars and the oil line cooler seal you mentioned. Should make the trip no problem, though I would keep a close eye on things.

My Forester has been faithful member of the family; No more than five hundred hundred dollars in repairs and yours probably will be to. Gary has hit the nail on the head, what you describe "Is all wrong." I would look around for a good reputable shop that works on Subarus and check out their reviews. Good luck to you..

I have done a lot of work and Had even more work done to my Forester; Those prices seem way too high to me. Perhaps the work could be done a little at time as use continue to use the car.

Recirc is probably bad. But it gets cold here I feel like it's letting cold air in. But I will open it at night. Thanks for the pointers and yes the mats are rubber truck mats that let hold moister.

AC works great and everything seems nice and dry at this point.

Yesterday it rained very hard here followed by a couple of inches of snow or so. I drove the car home during both and awoke to car with a windshield as wet on the inside as it was outside! This was a first for me. Of course I have occasional fog on the inside like anyone, but this was dew so heavy vision was not possible and the cloth to try it was sopped. The rest of the interior and glass was dry as a bone. The car ran fine, I am just a little puzzled to have that amount of water on the inside windshield. The heater was set to recirc and on hot and the windshield does not leak; nor Do I have a sun roof. Any thoughts? Worry or no...

Mine never completely went away on the' 99. After it started for about maybe a couple thousand miles it would diminish after warming up; from then on it was almost like listening to a ball peen hammer on steel and drove me crazy. I didn't try the different oils mentioned here, the solution was to have my engine rebuilt with New Pistons! Now about 50K city miles later I am happy to report no major problems which is pretty good I think for a twelve year old car. Doesn't use a drop of anything.

'99 and I am not if the ICV where it is. There are two sensors on the throttle and they have been replaced; Yes the rpms drop back down while rolling in neutral. Ethanol good point; Personally I am not a fan (I don't want to cause a big debate here) just not my cup and I pay extra for regular #87. Possibly I could grabbed the wrong one at the pump.