john40iowa

The car went to the good shop today and we got the answer. It confounded the mechanic, who thought it was the strut tower; a closer look revealed it be an issue with the hood. Apparently it was loose and had be tightened a bit... go figure.

Thanks for pointing this out, as it is very valid. The car is '99 Forester, with the 2.5 SOHC (200K). Good condition and daily driver. No, I don't want to make things worse and can wait it out, there is no problem here in terms of urgency. It has actually been a very reliable car and owes me nothing. Gaskets who knows- 2004, I suspect inferior.

After now about 70K on the rebuild, I am noticing a little oil weep on the drivers side rear of the engine, about a year or so. It does not get any worse, nor enough to effect the oil level much between changes. However, I was wondering if any ya all have heard of stop leak helping with this issue? Or maybe switching from the synthetic to Dino would help. I am not talking about the coolant goop, which has been added religiously with every change, and that system is fine. Thanks for any insight.

If the timing broke, it is likely it was never changed. What other deferred maintenance was not done? The bottom end of the end of the engine could also be so so or worse. Sounds like a really good deal if the rest of the car is solid.

I think your correct, which would be 4mm. Worth a shot, and ordered on Ebay- they have a nice selection.

Today I was replacing the vacuum hoses on the intake. I discovered there are two different sizes not counting the brake booster. I did the 1/8 I.D. (3mm) The remaining lines are little bigger and more robust. Does anyone know this size for these? Thanks for any pointers! '99 2.5 SOHC

Don't know about alternatives for repair, but might consider the junk yard. They are not heavy duty, but most cars today are made like this.

I am probably in the minority (Yea its quieter, and safer all that), but I like the frame less windows. There is just something cool about grabbing a door top with the window down.

Don't Know if it is a factor, but discovered the tires were all overfilled; the fronts have something near #40psi. No I didn't do it, I know they are supposed to be in the neighborhood of 28-32 psi from the door panel.

This is good advice. Looked at the end links and they are fine. I need to remove the undercover and really take a good look at things. Thanks!

'99 Forester A few weeks back a pedestrian and dog were in the middle of the road, strange since two perfectly good side walks were open. Anyhow on this road I had to take the shoulder area which was rather pot holed. Didn't appear all that extreme, but noticed there after a kinda of "Clunky sound" from the front end anytime a bump is crossed. I thought it might be the undercover, so I put new clips in that hold it on. No change:( The kyb struts have 50k and look fine as do the original springs. It was aligned about 5 months ago by a very good shop. It tracks and runs fine, and stops smoothly. Just this annoying plastic rattle trap sound at each bump, for lack of a better description. Any thoughts of the culprit here would be greatly appreciated.

Don't know if it is a factor; any tires with this aggressive of a tread pattern will be somewhat noisy.

They are a great car, but not indomitable. Sure, for a dune buggy it might run mold and all. Otherwise, I would not want to count on any car submerged under water. Just My 2

is that really a plastic intake on the engine? Not to impressed with these on other engines......The interior is really sweet, though.

For clarity The timing belt is not due yet. That is way beyond my expertise and time available. Gladly we pay a good shop to perform the 100K service; I ordered a brand new tensioner and long bolt. Thanks for the sound advise, this will be followed.

Thanks. With 200 K and irritating squeak the tensioner is going as well 2.5 sohc

Sorry to ask a dumb question. It has been something like 25 years since I have replaced an accessory belt; next week I will replace them and the Tensioner as well. To save unnecessary steps, with the tensioner loose do I still need to loosen the alternator? Not lazy, but don't want to "Make work" either. Thanks in advance!

Thanks everyone, Now I have something to work with.

Just for general purposes I am going to replace all the intake vacuum lines on my 2.5. It is a little confusing trying determine the amount and what to order from those online. Any pointers as where and what to search for? Thanks!

I agree totally. Obviously, you could take this a piece at a time- Tires now, brakes a little later. This would not scare me away at all from a rust free California car.

This might work in your favor in terms of getting a better deal. I would bet it is something relatively simple.

The previous responder is bang on. My job gave us a brand new '04 Town Country. What a joke, the tranny went out at 70K, and three years later. We took care of that van.

If you really want this car, I wouldn't let five hundred sway your decision. I would go with the first one over the second one "Modified, but restored to stock intake/exhaust." 40 K is a baby to me, obviously in the proper hands. To me both these these cars you listed are basically the same in terms of value and mileage. Good luck regardless. my two...

You also might put a little tape over the extension end (another wards cramming into the socket until is joined firmly to the wrench) before starting. Several times I have the extension and socket remain deep in the engine as I pulled out the tool:(

I vote for Cloth. My friend has the '00 Outback. The cloth seats are supportive even on long trips, and after 200K still look newish. What little I seen of Subaru leather has not impressed me in anyway. The cloth on my Forester's after 13 years on the road, are just now showing the beginning signs of love. Just my two