john40iowa

They were off yesterday, and on low heat (floor) before that.

I am surprised it didn't show up sooner; rare for a Subie

The past few weeks the idle to the Forester has risen a bit while in drive (automatic). The car runs great and very strong with no faltering of any kind. I have to put a little more pressure on the brake pedal while at a stop than previously. I want to say it idles while in gear around 1500 RPMs or so and drops to about 500 in neutral. Also, the car Ala-Toyota does not accelerate on it own. I replaced the 02 sensor (front converter), and both the sensors on the throttle body about five years ago of mine accord (no light at all) and took off of the plastic box around the intake to clean it last Summer; everything is nice an tight. The MAF is original (though I have lovingly cleaned it with the appropriate specific spray and followed directions) and am wondering if after 12 years it has had it, but reluctant to spend the money if others rule it out. Some info I looked into, state these can go with or without a code/light and give the computer misinformation to run on. Symptoms for problems run the gamut. Thanks as every to you awesome group!

It is actually a pretty easy job. I put the car on blocks and drain it, add distilled water and allow engine to run briefly, drain the water and repeat, then allow it to drain. Add the coolant & Subaru conditioner bottle and remember the 50/50 coolant won't work because of the water retained in the system. Also I remove and wash the overflow tank and add fresh coolant to it. Every two years is good rule of thumb I think; my car is 12 years old and the heater will still bake everyone out of the car. You might consider new radiator cap as well- cheap insurance if ya ask me:)

I agree! If didn't test drive on the freeway, and if it wasn't a gift, I say see ya.

Yes and Its easy

How are these (when in-tact) to remove? Any special tools? Thanks for any pointers.

I changed mine on the '99 Forester which is probably similar to yours. The shift cover did not have to come apart; the surround console was removed and the bulb is easy to feel and twist out from underneath.

Actually four things ; at least on the Forester: There is a (auto) transmission hose (partially rubber) very near the steering mechanism, near firewall. If for any reason this touches it, it wears a hole. The only time my car has left me stranded was this due to failure and its massive fluid leak. Thankfully it was rather cheap fix, minus the flat bed towing.

I have never had one go on my Subaru. How hard is it to replace on a Forester? It looks simple to get to, but I have always been a little afraid of in-proper adjustment and messing up the flywheel. Maybe I will never have to cross the bridge but who knows.

I went to Autozone and they put it in for free. Likely more than Walmart, though I could put a battery in with eyes closed I just didn't want to mess with it. About $100.00 for my Forester, and that was their best battery.

that happened to me one time many moons ago. It seems like I punched a hole in it near the end and drove a flat head screw driver through. Violla it twisted right off. Good luck. Don't know if it wise to drive with the filter mangled.

My Forester has had two of them over the past five years. It seems like the glass shop said the price is actually coming down, at least for model. With the last one I think I paid around $300. or maybe $350. including installation. John

You might just try some plug wires. My friend's 2000 Outback did the same thing and this was all it needed to correct the problem.

I found it easier to find a a used HVAC control unit and replaced the entire unit. But it was the Forester which is a somewhat different.

They tell me on this year there is no gasket on the tranny pan; but, rather a sealant is applied and your right it would be messy.

Strange, I even showed him the service interval page; it was the very last time I went to the dealer for maintenance. I think dealers really don't want to mess with old cars...

'99 I am told was a mid year change for Some Subarus. My book said to have it adjusted or checked at 105 k. However, when the dealer looked at it he said it was not adjustable.

I advocated and got my friend the 2000 Outback (around 2006). She has now around 200K on it now. Yes the head gaskets went around 150K, otherwise almost no problems beyond basic maintenance. John

I went to Ron's Auto in Ames. Really awesome guys who know their stuff. Price, well I guess it depends on the chances you want to take or the time you can dedicate. I believe in terms of Non dealership garages, often times you get what you pay for, and I avoid chains if possible; though they are not always bad.

19 psi, This is bad lol.

I can't remember what the product name was I used. It was similar to Dynamat but from a company in Oregon- really nice owner as well. The product I used is two part, in that you place a layer or more of covered tar paper over the surface and then a spray it with adheasive to be followed by a layer of thin accousticle foam. It worked out well.

are the newer Foresters improved in this area? I hear the steering isn't as tight in terms of handling.

Having the '99 myself the Forester is noisy! I took out the carpet and put sound deadner as well as all the doors and as much of the fire wall as reachable. Also I bought special sound deadner for the engine side of the firewall. All of this really helped a lot in terms of noise; only thing left is the head liner if I get the gumption to do it. I must say it was a joke what passed as insulation for this model and year. It gets cold here and I noticed a dramatic improvement in heat retention. Much work yes...

I would have to agree. That part should be stainless steal or some sort composite.