john40iowa

Sometimes, you don't get what you pay. I bought the Napa wires, which were very close in price to OEM. A year later, they had to replaced again and their boots literally fell apart when removed.

Tune with plugs this past summer, fuel filter yesterday. Wires are about two- three years old. The injectors were replaced OEM around 30K ago. Not able to detect sound from the pump because, several years ago the interior was sound insulated (another reason I really don't want to get into it). The fuel filler tube was replaced last summer and I ran Techron through it afterward. About every six months it gets a bottle of seafoam to fuel. Yes I have given the key a few seconds before I turn it to start every time. There is a lot of competition for car repairs around here. That is why generally speaking, I use this kinda shop for oil changes and filters. Thanks for the pointers, this is what I was thinking to.

I took the '99 Forester today for an oil change. Actually, I left it the night before. The shop manager called and remarked at cold start, "It takes a little long," "Could be the fuel pump, but we have do diagnostics." He admitted it starts fine when its warm. So, I declined to have it checked. The car does have close to 200K and I don't mind replacing it if indeed it is that time. What do y'all think?? Yes very cold it takes maybe 3 seconds to start at most (and I need to change the belt tensioner if that matters, although it is not dragging at this point). Warm, it is bang on at start. The tune is perfect and recently done, along with many fluids. The entire engine was rebuilt about 60K or so. I guess what I am asking is should I try the wait and see approach or go ahead and replace it in the next few months? I really don't like to pay flat bed towing when I don't have to. On the other hand, if it is the pump will it give a little more glaring report before plays out?

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I don't care if the parts store gave me a hundred replacements. I want one reliable unit that I can count on when I drive many miles at night. One of mine went without warning on the old Mercury; towing in the middle of Winter was a real pita.

you might want to consider a true oil pressure gage:burnout:

you can also order it on-line from several Subaru dealers.

Thanks.. It is a '99 2.5 SOHC, completely rebuilt about 70k trouble free miles ago. Where would the baffle plate be?

I did clean most of the hoses out last time it was serviced. That is why I am thinking of going this route with it. The inside of the throttle body was coated as well. I am not concerned with oil consumption, because none is needed between changes; also, I swear I can smell it burning from time to time. No there are no leaks of any kind on the outside of the engine.

I am thinking about installing one of the high end oil catch cans for my 2.5. What do y'all think about em. I change my PCV faithfully every 6 months with OEM;but, it bothers me to see all this oil draining from the intake. If anyone has pointers on precisely where to connect the two fittings (shown on the can) this would help me immensely. Happy Holidays and thank you to all for your insight and help with this car! :cool:

Are the hoses original? I had one leak after I changed the fluid. Be sure an add the Subaru Conditioner regardless; it is cheap insurance.

Was this a chemical flush? Did you put the "Subaru Conditioner" in?

This advise has been covered here by different folks. To recap: I would do an assessment- see if a mechanic will give you a head to toe of what the car needs to be road worthy. Sometimes they won't charge you. If your not handy but willing, maybe you can learn basic repairs. I am very visual and Youtube has saved my hide. Why? Because even if its not your model of Subaru, much of the esentials are the same and many great people have posted just for people like us, that want to learn. If money is issue as I suspect it is, and the car is worth keeping, determine what you "Can live with." Obviously an oil leak is important to address. On the other hand maybe a, "Jolt," you could get by with for awhile. When you buy an $ 800.00 car, I am sorry say, but basically it is "As is," regardless of what they tell you. Maybe you have case with the Title, but your time is also worth something... Good luck to you. I have been there done that (not Subaru).

Where you live and the time of year are factor in pricing for sure; I was bored this weekend and spent about two to three hours doing on-line search for this exact same year and AWD drive model. I found two- 0ne in Chicago and the other in North Carolina. Both were in substantially better condition without as much rust and about the same miles. One was asking $2300 and the other about 1900. The first unit looked like Grandpa's car and I wanted to buy myself it if it wasn't so far from me. Go Subaru!

Personally I find the auto locks annoying. I like to decide for myself whether to lock or unlock the doors.

If what your saying is the rubber boot is torn and remains in the head. I would take pliers and Squeeze it at to the center and twist it as you pull it. They are hard sometimes

For the Forester, Subaru implanted a mid year change. You could have either of the two engines.

Unless you can do the work yourself, you may be well wise to get a rebuilt engine with warranty installed. Much work could be done to your engine, only to have play out shortly thereafter.

Unless you really want this car, I would consider looking at your options otherwise. A little road trip may offer you some better choices for less money.

I am not versed enough to contribute to your main dilemma, but the rattle with heat shields I attest for. All old Foresters have them. Simple fix, buy large C clamps and tie em up. My car has three and no rattles.

My friend has your model. Hers is really nice. If your car in top shape otherwise, I think I would try the junkyard pick your part put it in... Or if the rest of car is so so, than I would get a new one. Sounds little too far gone for 800 miles.

Thanks for the link. This was a big help to me!

Are the two bars from the strut towers really for body rigidity? I thought those went out with the '70s. Sweet car though, and great color!

BTW, I owned a 99 Forester. I loved the body styling on that car. Having this year myself I totally agree! I really am not enamored at all with the new ones, even though they always improve.

Have you thought about the age of the tires not withstanding mileage. I was in your predicament with Forester and went ahead with four new tires.

I went down that road with mine and it was four thousand dollars; Looking back it would have been faster and with less headaches to do the swap, and also, would have been a little less expensive.