wally

i realize this is an old thread, with lots of confusing information. for a manual transmission, with a working center diff, removing the driveshaft will result in the car not moving, or moving with limited ability, until the center diff heats up enough to lock, and then the car will drive. if, however, the center diff has already failed (and they fail by locking up), a manual transmission car can be driven in fwd with the rear driveshaft removed, with no problems. i drove mine in this condition for 2 years, and never had an instance where the front wheels lacked drive effort/power. i put nearly 50K miles on it in that condition, and only replaced the transmission once it started popping out of gear in 3rd and 5th.

as you've seen (the original poster), the '95 has a pretty good reputation. i'm still driving mine, with 292,xxx miles on it. the single biggest issue for them is rust. next is making sure your tires are the same, including checking air pressure on a weekly basis, or more often if you are really good. one tire with low air pressure can and will ruin that center diff in the manual transmission. not sure about the auto. frankly, i've never changed the brake fluid in the car, so it's approaching 18 years of age. maybe i should. i have replaced all four rotors twice (rust from salt), and the calipers once (also rust from salt). i hate the abs system on these subarus, and disabled it. i've been driving it for more than 10 years without abs. when i first had it, in the span of 4 days, i nearly totalled the car twice because of the abs system not allowing the car to stop. i had to downshift. some people swear by it; i swear at it. i'm not recommending that you disable yours; just a heads up on it's functionality. i still drive the car from nh to mi every year, 1700 miles round-trip, and have averaged about 18,000 per year since i bought it. wally

absolutely. my job takes me onto unmaintained gravel roads often, and when my vc failed, i could drive those roads better than i do now, with the working vc. however, tight turns on pavement (like into the parking spaces at the grocery) were nasty with the failed vc.

i haven't been burned, but i have no use for the chart. the fact that it does have errors makes it absolutely useless for swaps.

it could be, but after 2 years, it's still functional, so i'm going to say it's the same ratio. i know it's functional, because of some of the client properties where i drive the car (very steep hill, loose gravel). when i took out the rear driveshaft prior to replacing the transmission, i couldn't even get one-third of the way up the hill. last month, i was able to ascend it slowly, in very dry, loose conditions. no way the car goes up without functional awd.

to the original poster, i'd verify that your existing transmission does, in fact, have 4.11. my original transmission was coded exactly the same as yours (and matched the factory tag on the fender, next to the strut top). i believe it really had 3.90, especially since the replacement transmission is supposed to have 3.90, and i didn't change/replace the rear diff.

possible, but not the only reason. several years ago, a truck threw a large hunk of asphalt through my rear window. prices for just the glass were quoted at over $1000, nevermind installation. instead of doing that, i replaced the entire hatch with a complete junkyard hatch for $300, including a working defroster and wiper unit (both of which had failed on the original).

it had the TY752VAAAA transmission originally, which the chart claims is 4.11. i replaced it with a transmission from an impreza, coded TY752VT3AA, which the chart lists as 3.90. i did not change or replace the rear differential, and i have been driving it since i installed the "replacement" transmission in july 2010. thus, my original, or the replacement, does not have the gearing claimed via the "chart". additionally, the TY52VAAA isn't listed for model year '95 legacy wagons. it's listed as model year '94 outback (i know they didn't exist in '94, at least in the us). according to the chart, my original transmission should have been coded TY752VABAA, which has (according to the "chart") 3.90 gears. clear as mud? regardless, one of the listings is incorrect, else i would have munched the rear or center diff by now.

Ty752vaaaa

chart "claimed" i had 4.11 gears. i have 3.90s.

yes, it has been. it was incorrect for my '95 leg wagon. i don't remember the specifics, but it "claimed" the code from my transmission came from a different year, yet it was the factory original (which i replaced when i lost the synchros in 3rd and 5th, along with having it pop out of 3rd and 4th). the tag on the fender matched the numbers on the transmission bh.

is the Cda couer d'alene? i worked out of there back in the early 90s, mostly up to bonner's ferry and naples, but also down to elk river. wally

that i agree with.

i'll respectfully disagree. prior to prepping the mating surface many years ago (7 to 9), i hit the sidewall over 30 times with a sledge and the wheel wouldn't budge. it finally came off after about 7 solid whacks on the wheel itself.

i try to hit the tire, but i've hit the wheel a few times. i don't have alloy wheels, though, so i don't really care. fwiw, i've put at least 175K on the rear wheel bearings after using the sledge pretty hard. as far as i know, the bearings are original, and stand at 287K today. i'll be honest. my car isn't pretty, but it isn't all rusted out, either. it's serviceable transportation, relatively cheap, and completely paid for (over ten years ago).

my rear wheels also stick to the hubs on my '95. i most certainly live in the rust belt, so i expect it. i've had to resort to a sledge a few times, and really pound on it to remove the wheel. i'd tried driving/hard braking, but that didn't do it. the sledge did. i also clean the hub surface, apply copper/anti-seize, and clean/wire the wheel hub hole, and i still get the wheels stuck. i also have two sets of wheels, for snow tires and "normal" tires. whatever works.

and if you miss a few places, it leaks. that and if you do crack that $80 retail windshield, you're now up to $160, plus having to do it yourself. no thank you, thank you very much. fwiw, i've replaced several windshields on my cj. after cracking the last one (ok, the next to the last one), i decided i won't be doing them any more. i've also replaced the two-piece windshield on my '48 dodge dump truck. won't be doing that again, either. it takes too long for me to do it, and i have to worry about breaking the glass, and dealing with any leaks. if a company-installed windshield leaks, it's going back for them to take care of it. done.

i'd pay the $190 to $230 to have someone experienced/insured install it. unless you are good at it, don't bother, and because you are asking about it, you aren't good at it. it won't be worth it in the end, especially if you break the "new" windshield while attempting to install it.

:-p:D i don't listen to click and clack very often, so i won't really miss them.

kind of funny. i just replaced mine today, after 132,000 miles since the last change. the gap was up to between .061 and .072 for the four, with the center electrode somewhat worn down. car was still averaging 27 mpg.

any thought that it could be a partially plugged injector? my '95 recently had similar symptoms. car would noticeably rock at idle, sounded rough, but ran as well as always "at speed". just like popcorn. the other day, it started being sluggish under load, at all rpm. i drove it hard for a few miles, with lots of "missing" and lacking power, at about 5,000 rpm. after a few miles, it stopped doing the missing, and power returned. it idles better than it has for a month. i have no idea what really happened, but if it was a single injector, the obstruction could have finally passed. :shrug: oh, and my CEL was flashing fairly regularly for several days leading up to the rough running under load, numerous times during a 100 mile trip. since then, no flashing CEL.

oh, as for the spark plug, your mechanic must not be a subie person. remove the washer fluid reservoir, and it's easy to get at that driver's side rear spark plug. the reservoir requires two bolts at the top of it to be removed, along with disconnecting the power source for the washer pump (2 for a rear washer car), and pulling the water line off of the pump. done. wally

you like paying more for insurance? and registration? and car payments, period? not me. my '95 has been paid for since 2000. it's been a very nice 12 years without a car payment, or insurance beyond carrying liability. also, in NH, '95 and earlier don't have to pass the emissions testing run by the state (probably mandated by the feds). so, another plus for running a '95. incidentally, mine just turned 286,000 miles this morning.

and?? not sure what that has to do with "what speed do you drive your legacy?". i've been passed by too many troopers to count, at speeds ranging from 50 to 100+ (them, not me).

glad to see not everyone in the US speeds. i go from nh to mi and back once every year. set the cruise for 60. been doing this for more than 12 years with the '95. best mileage for the trip was 33 mpg, but the trip out to mi had mpg over 35. usually seems to be just above 30 for the round trip. i don't pass many cars on the trip, that's for sure. on the other hand, the car would be fine at higher speeds, just would have worse gas mileage. besides, i'm on my way to my in-laws when heading to mi. why go faster?