SubaruAlliance

this might help http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=56132&highlight=alarm http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=13775&d=1270948345

very good information. i can move the center bearing if need be, just cut out the bracket on one of the foresters and weld it in place on my svx if it's that far off. I had to do that once before on my first soob 88 gl 2wd auto converted to 5spd 4x4. as far as the 2 inch difference my wheel base is 102.8 and a second gen outback is 104.3. i am not sure if i have ever seen a manual outback, but if i could find a tranny and driveshaft out of that i will only have a half inch instead of 2 inches to worry about. then just move the carrier bearing mount if need be.

I just tried the contact us button and left a message. my screen name is Subaru Alliance. if this doesn't work then i may ask you to try and get ahold of a moderator on my behalf. thanks again

on my 03 it has a soft cover with a piece of plastic that runs along the edges for you to tuck into a small metal track that runs around the top 3 sides of the bed. i will be checking this post periodically because as i said all mine has is a soft cover so it will be nice to find some info on a hard cover.

ok so this is what i have found out with the power of google and about 15 minutes. 2008 wrx sti has a wheelbase of 100 inches first gen outback's 1995-99 wheelbase of 103.5 second gen outback wheelbase of 104.3 first and second gen forester wheelbase of 99.4 svx wheelbase of 102.8 most of this came from wikipedia i am wondering if i can use half a forester driveshaft and half of an outback driveshaft? at this time the only parts cars at my disposal are two first gen foresters, and between the both of them i should be able to come up with a driveline. i am thinking my best bet for a trans would be out of a forester XT (neither of the two at the boneyard are an XT though) since there is only a 3 horsepower difference in engines. i will keep researching and mix and match to get the best factory type setup requiring the least amount of mods and compile that for a general walk through on a manual trans and an AWD swap. as far as the issues with the svx board no luck there, i can't click on anything, i was trying to contact a moderator to help me out and aside from creating another account my only hope is that one of the moderators from that board will stumble onto this post and help me out. if anyone on this board knows a moderator from the svx board and could pass my info along it would be greatly appreciated. i will keep ya'll updated as i make progress

nice info guys. like i said i am brand new to the svx's so this is the first i have heard of any driveshaft issues. i will definitely use this stuff to do the swap when i have all the parts and all this ready. thanks again.

i called the junkyard and of course they close at 1400 (2:00pm) on saturdays and not open on sundays. guess i will have to call on tuesday because i will be at the range all day on monday. no i haven't done anything yet, just researching to start to stockpile the parts i am gonna need before i start on it. whatdaya mean the driveshaft customized? i was thinking get the drive line out the forester and swap it in, i am anticipating fabbing the carrier bearing mount for the driveshaft, and the trans crossmember, but not a drive shaft. I am brand new to these SVX's to take me to school.

LOL thanks for the info, i've been out of the net on soobs for a while. all i have now are three new styles, and i haven't had much chance to work on them yet, but getting there slowly

you might buy yourself some more time on those gaskets if you invest in a can of block seal depending on the severity of the HG this might seal it up and you will be good for a while or it won't work and your out something like 10-15 bucks. i would try that first. i HAD a HG issue on my 03 baja with 113K on it, sealed it up with a thing of alumaseal and haven't had any issues since, that was about 6 months and 4k miles ago.

LMAO yeah good point. i am not really gonna be goin 150 to travel the 4 miles to work either. I am wondering about the forester hubs and all that, i wouldn't wanna be nearly done with the swap just to realize the axles don't fit into the SVX hubs or what not. the front hubs from that forester are now on my 03 baja, but i am sure i can use the hubs off the other forester. i will most likely go with a hydraulic clutch. the only thing that will be stopping me from the swap will be the flywheel, and i am sure i could pick up an aftermarket one lightened for a couple hundy, and then a more heavy duty clutch. at least in the mean time while i saving for the clutch and flywheel, i could swap in the rear diff and hubs, even the pedal set, at least all that would be done, till the trans itself got put it.

good call 987687. LOL i was thinking the old school 4x4 models.

there should be a coolant temperature sending unit in the radiator, that would be the one to signal the fans that it is time to turn on and cool the radiator down.

yeah man johnc is right the final drive ratio's are different so it's gonna cause a bind if you use that trans with your stock rear diff. if you need to get the car back on the road quickly you can swap the new trans in, and then un install the back half of the drive shaft from the carrier bearing to the rear diff and run it like that, but it will only be front drive if that's the route you take (if the 97 legacy has a two piece drive shaft this will work) if it's not a two piece you could always take the rear cv axles out and leave the drive shaft alone, this however might cause wheel bearing issues, i am not sure if the cv axle holds the bearing together, i don't believe it does, but i have been wrong before. your best bet for long term would be to take the trans back and get one that has the same final drive as your rear diff, or go to a junkyard and get a rear diff that has the same final drive as your new trans.

I am not real technical on the innerworkings of a trans, but it sounds like you have a jacked up syncro in there. I had an 88 mazda 5spd, and my bro JAMMED it into reverse one day while it was running and no clutch pushed in and ever since that day it felt kinda chunky or grind a bit goin into reverse

thanks for the info on that. I actually just realized that the junkyard i went to had a subaru forester i yanked the front hubs and abs wires off it to replace the ones on my Baja, but that one was a 5 spd. i think it was a 99 and the engine was already gone but i am sure i can everything else for a 5 spd swap and then just be in the market for a flywheel. that one had front and rear axles rear diff, and the tranny with pedal set, so this might be the way to go just to get her a manual. anyone know compatibles? if i try to use the forester's rear hubs i will have to swap the A-arms also? i will get some price quotes on the parts and that may be the next big project. i will have lost of pics and post em up on here.

another test you could would be a voltage drop test. that requires the circuit be powered in example the engine running. you then put the volt meter on voltage dc and put one of the leads either neg or pos on the wire as close to the sensor or the ecu (depending where you start, the o2, or the ecu) and then a few feet away on the same wire you put the other lead on it. you should not get more than a half volt at any spot and if you do then you know that is the spot causing the voltage drop. example if this is your wire: step 1 o2 sensor here:X--x----------x-------------[clip]-------------------------------------X < ecu one of the lowercase x's = one of your voltmeter leads step 2 02:X-----------x--------------x-[clip]--------------------------------------X < ecu then keep moving down the wire and when you get to a plug in or clip be sure to check it with one lead on each side of the clip and if you get more than a half volt then replace that section of the wire or that particular clip. the goal for this test is .5v or less. say for example you test the clip and you get a 2v reading on your voltmeter that means your sensor would only be receiving 10v instead of 12v. keep in mind that the voltage drops are cumulative so if you have two or three spots that average 1.5v then that is 3 or 4.5v less for the circuit to receive. remember THE CIRCUIT HAS TO BE POWERED for this test to work. LOL you wouldn't believe how many times i would start a voltage drop test with the power turned off only to realize it and then start over. not trying to insult anyones intelligence here, it's just confusing (at least for me) without a visual reference of some sort. if anyone knows this technique better or if i forgot something correct me so i can learn it too.

oh yeah i am still working the issue on the svx board. i created an account and activated it and all that but still won't let me post. anyways i kinda think of this board as my home, as this was the first place i found about 8 years ago with my very first subaru the 1988 gl sedan.

thanks again guys. i just swapped in the fuel pump on the 92 green one and she fired right up. it has a misfire but nothing some plugs won't fix. i also put it in gear and it dropped right in and i eased off the brake and she pulled forward then i did the same in reverse. so by the looks of it i have an extra AWD tranny. as far as work goes she gonna need some battery clamps, and a pwer steering return hose with a clamp. after that i wanna driver her for a few days just to see how she does. as far as the manual swap i wanna use a STI tranny so it will be strong enough to handle to the power, even with mods and should keep the geering to let her hit 160. as for now i will look into the tranny cooler idea, that will be way cheaper than the cheapest sti tranny i found about 1800 bucks. i will keep ya'll posted as the projects move forward. the engines are fairly clean on both cars, but both in need of some tlc, hopefully here in the near future i will have some pics of the engine out of the car and getting a gasket transplant from the head gaskets up, with new seals.

thanks guys. the whole sti killer thing is a dream of course, and she is kind of a PIG weighin in at 3430lbs. (she hasn't missed any meals) but i am serious about building one of these up. imagine it with 8.5 :1 pistons and a turbo, with some weight reduction (a few hundred pounds) and a 6spd tranny. the only question is for the turbo, build it for high boost say 25+ psi, or build it for CFM, being a bigger engine i wouldn't need high psi, the engine can be fed the volume of air. not sure yet still working it. anyways as i said i appreciate the help. the 92 (green one) came with a fuel pump and an extra AWD tranny, the guy i bought em off doesn't know if the stock tranny is good and he got the other one to swap in but never got around to it. the only issue i am having with the 94 (red one) is that the check engine light will come on for anywhere from 1-20 minutes at a time, then it will go off for anywhere from 1 minute- 1 hour of driving. i am gonna swap in the ball joints and read the ecu codes to see what s goin on with that. the moon roof is a little sticky but i think a cleaning and lube will fix that. to gbianchi: thx for the info on the svx forum, i have registered there and activated my account, but for some reason it still won't let me post, i'll try to contact a moderator or something to see if i can get it figured out. thanks again guys.

hmmm maybe the photos are to big? maybe this will work instead. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2082069&id=1083470802&l=96e2da27f5 the red one is the 94 LS 2wd with 119K miles on it. it is my daily driver and getting some minor body work and prepped for paint. the green one is the 92LSI awd with 127K miles on it, currently not running needing a fuel pump and accessory belts. I have only seen an SVX for about 1 minute prior to owning these two, but have always wanted one, now i have two. anyways if anyone is familiar with these models can you tell me anything about it like some common problems or anything of that nature. I will keep the pics goin with the progress on the bodywork. My ultimate goal is to build one of these two into a STI Killer. it has the same bore and stroke as an EJ2.2 so i am looking for 6 turbo pistons. anyways enough dreaming for now. i appreciate any help i get.

ok i got the ball studs out of the hood struts, i had to use a claw hammer to get em out. Yeah i know, they were stubborn. anyways here are a few pics this one is the 94 LS 2wd. i am in the process of doing some minor body work and prepping it for paint, but that will be way on down the road. this one is my daily driver this one is the 92 LSI awd currently not running, needs a fuel pump (which I have on hand) alternator belt needs tightened up, and the A/C belt needs replaced

just got these cars as a package deal for 3500. i got new ball joints and hood struts for the 94. does the ball stud have to be replaced when replacing the hood struts? It looks as tho the struts will pop off, but these are being pretty stubborn and not wanting to come off. thanks guys. P.S. pics will be coming soon

oh yeah, as far as the turbo crossmember goes, i knew about that, but i can pick those up all day for about 100 bucks.

thanks for all the info guys. I have decided to go with an EJ2.2T bottom end, and then i will just use the top end of a 2.5 turbo. this combination, with an EJ2.5 SOHC head gasket will get me right at the 7.7:1 compression ratio. with the 2.5 heads and intake i can keep it OBD2, but still have that bulletproof engine. The first thing to do is get the engine, and then i want to yak the pistons and rods, split the block, and put it back together with aftermarket rods and pistons. I figure my brother has an 04 STI and he is somewhere in the 470HP range at the crank, i think he said it's good for just under 400 at the wheels. anyways i figure he has factory internals, and is sitting at 20psi with 8.8:1 with the right tune and 7.7:1 and the aftermarket rods and pistons, there is no reason i can't be in the 27PSI range. All the research i been doing on other forums, there is a person who is posting, that from his experience, anything at or more than 27PSI will bend and break factory rods on the 2.2's Like i said, it's gonna be a long slow process, but i will post up pics of the build as it slowly comes along. The next question is to find out the difference in flow between SOHC, and DOHC 2.5 heads. thanks again guys