987687
-
Posts
4285 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
18
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by 987687
-
-
If you don't have the proper tool to get the metal band clamps tight, it's really hard to get enough tension on them. I just use a big beefy zip tie to hold the boots on.
-
1
-
-
Interesting failure mode, I don't think I've ever heard of that happening before. My legacy does something almost similar, it'll fire back up immediately, but if i wait a minute it cranks for several seconds. I wonder if it's the same issue just starting to manifest itself.
It could also be a fuel leak internal to the tank, not big enough to cause a problem (yet), but enough to bleed pressure off when the pump stops.
-
I just use a pair of pliers or vise grips or something. If the piston is really tight/stuck you have other problems. Undo the bleeder screw so you're just pushing fluid out the caliper, not back into the system. Should make things easier.
-
2
-
-
He probably put the release bearing on the clutch fork with the fork rod installed, then tried to seat the engine into it. That's the only way I can think of to bend anything. You're supposed to have the TOB attached to the pressure plate, bolt up the engine to the trans, then get the stupid clutch fork rod in place. It's sort of a pain in the rump roast, and likely why shops cut corners.
This is exactly the reason most shops won't install user supplied parts, I doubt exedy will cover the cost of engine R&R even if it is a defective part. The shop doing labor for half price is kinda admitting fault. Besides doing it yourself, there really isn't a whole lot besides just pay up and have it done right.
-
1
-
-
If I dry it out under a vacuum for an extended time, would the drier still need to be replaced?
Yes, it's full of a desiccant and probably can't be completely dried unless it's heated. They're fairly cheap, if you're bothering to do the job properly, just replace it.
-
1
-
-
Ok so lesson learned, never hammer on the end of a bolt or stud you're planning on using again. You've mushroomed the threads and now the nut isn't going to come off. File it down flush with the nut and you might be in business. A pneumatic impact would help here... Whatever you do, don't grab the taper with visegrips or it'll never seat right. Try to get the nut threaded further on to free up some working room on the threads. Threads aren't meant to take impact, so when you get the nut off make sure they aren't damaged.
Also just a caution, don't pry open on a pinch fit like the subaru knuckle, when I worked in a shop I saw more than one guy break one of the ears off.
-
Yikes! Do not fool your ECU out of limp mode with resistors. If you use heavy throttle up a steep grade, or just accelerate hard, the engine will ping a bit by design. The knock sensor retards the timing until it doesn't ping, that's part of how they adjust for maximum fuel economy and efficiency. However, if the knock sensor is missing you'll get bad pinging and risk melting the pistons.
If the sensor is going bad, replace it! If you have to deal with limp mode and hesitation, suck it up, better than ruining your engine by letting it ping.
-
2
-
-
I assumed you have an EJ subaru which have two sensors in the US. What exactly is your car?
-
If you're talking about the rear o2 sensor, without a cat the second method will generally work better and keep the engine light off. The rear o2 sensor doesn't do a whole lot for engine tuning, it's mostly emissions.
If you're talking about the front sensor, it needs to be fully is the exhaust stream or you'll have the wrong mixture.
-
96 is a non-interference, I had the belt break on mine going 80 on the highway with no damage.
You can count the teeth between between timing marks. With all the timing marks straight up. From the crank mark to the passenger side cam mark, there should be 44 teeth. From the crank to the driver side cam there should be 40.5 teeth (yes, it starts on a groove and ends up on a tooth on the belt). This will ensure you have the belt on correctly even if it's marked incorrectly.
At this point, you need to start checking the engine vitals. Pull the injector harness plugs and using an oscilloscope or noid light check to make sure they pulse when the engine is cranked. Check to make sure you have fuel pressure. Check spark at all cylinders. You might have bumped a connector on a cam/crank sensor that's causing all your issues.
-
What year is it? if it's a 97 or 98 it may have bent the valves. I bet the timing belt is on incorrectly, though.
-
1
-
-
There's a special tool that looks kind of like a sawzall for removing glass. When I needed replacement rear quarter glass for my outback I called a mobile glass guy, he said he'd come out to the junkyard and remove the glass for a $15 fee. Rolled in my generator, took all the trim off, and he did the work. Completely worth it. Call around, chances are a mobile glass guy will do it for you pretty cheap. If you want the glass out without breaking it, its the best option.
You can get them out using piano wire and two people, but quarter glass is usually really difficult to remove that way
-
Long story short: No, not possible.
Long story: you need XT6 rear control arms and hubs, front parts can come from an older impreza if you mix the right parts together, etc. But you can't just bolt on outback parts and magically have a 5 lug setup, sorry.
-
-
A good friend of mine always says "Subarus are like legos except when they ain't"...
The heads don't make an engine interference, it's a change on piston design. The difference in timing kit is the hydraulic tensioner, they changed it in 96 or 97. I can tell from your picture you have the old style.
-
You have the old style tensioner, so you'd need parts for a 90-95 ej22.
You want to match your timing kit to the HEADS, not the block. All the EJ blocks are more or less the same, everything just bolts on to them. The heads are different, so you always wanna match the timing stuff to the heads.
On being interference, that depends on the pistons, not the heads. In 97 the pistons changed causing an interference design. Unless it's a 96 ej25 block, your engine is interference *. This is irrelevant, rockauto doesn't "know" you have swapped things around. For all intensive purposes, it has an old style tensioner so it's going to be a non-interference era timing kit.
I like the gates timing kit, you can get them online with all the idlers and stuff in the $150 to $200 range.
* before someone jumps down my throat, the 96 ej25 with dual cam heads has valve to valve, not valve to piston interference
-
Does your car have the 3 wire sensor or the 2 wire sensor? pretty sure it's 3, but it's been a while since I've worked on those. Again, it probably isn't the sensor that's gone bad, I'd check other things first.
If it's a 3 wire, it has a plastic case and they're extremely difficult to get out without breaking. There's a 17mm hex area you can try to get a wrench on, but it will strip out. They're glued into the transmission with red loctite. If you plan on taking one of these out, it's a good idea to get a replacement before you start...
The 2 wire ones have a metal housing and generally come out easier.
For diagnostics:
2 wire sensor is a hall effect sensor. Meaning there are little magnets spinning past coils of wire. The best way to test one of these is using an oscilloscope. When you turn the sensor, there are a few spots that feel sticky, at these points you'll get a peak on the oscilloscope screen.
The 3 wire sensors take 12v input and give a pulsed voltage output. I can't remember the pinout off the top of my head, it's easy to find.
Without knowing what your issue is it's rather tough to steer you in the right direction other than, check fuses and signal paths before removing the speed sensors. There's an issue with the gauge cluster screws backing out causing intermittent speedo problems and codes like p0500.
-
Not sure why you have a thread for a 97 and a 98, either way, it's the same process... it sucks and the vss probably isn't the issue in the first place. What exactly is happening? Speedo not working, or sporatically working with a p0500 code?
-
It's pretty black and white to me, if any of the idlers have play, they need to be replaced. Doesn't matter if it's brand new or not, play is play. It'll throw all its grease and fail in short order.
-
1
-
-
By doing that you'll delete the resonators and it'll drone. Loud exhausts are fun for about 5 minutes, then they get really annoying. You spend your whole drive getting tinnitus and spotting cops so you don't get ticketed for an inordinately loud car. I put a lot of effort into keeping rusty mufflers on my subarus (except I gave up on my GL...), it baffles me (pun intended) why anyone would cut them off...
-
2
-
-
It'll be fine, the forester has pretty stiff springs from the factory, and the back wheels are fairly close to the back of the car. This is an extremely important point... The more overhang from the back wheels to the back of the car, the more load the same weight is going to put on the springs.
I had a 2000 outback, which have way too soft springs from the factory. I was always bottoming the stupid thing out by loading the trunk full of rocks, fire wood, whatever else. I treated the forester the same way and barely mattered at all, those things are tanks.
I wouldn't bother doing anything crazy with the rear suspension, if you want stiffer springs there's a ton of aftermakert.
-
Personally I'd go with the dual range, I had a dream to take the dual range out of my rusty GL and put it in my forester, then someone who couldn't drive totalled the car...
I launched and hauled a lot of boats with my GL, and despite the ea81 being a bit underpowered the dual range was amazing. It was great for light offroading and general messing around. Personally, I really don't care about my car being fast, I want to be able to drive more places. Fast cars get me in trouble....
-
I'll repeat again... Fix the problem.... Do not change the head because of messed up bolt holes, that's completely ridiculous. Just use big fat timeserts so you have some meat to drill into and thread in the timesert. Even use two timeserts in eachother, almost any bolt hole repair solution is going to be cheaper and certainly way easier than taking the engine apart.
There are products on the market for just this very issue, utilize them. I'd rather buy $30 worth of drill bits and whatnot to fix the problem than new heads, machine shop surfacing the heads, intake manifold gaskets, new oil and coolant, and spend my entire afternoon bent over the engine bay. But if you want the exercise of screwing around with subaru engines... I guess go ahead.
-
Just fix the problem, no reason to change the heads. If the holes haven't been drilled out before, get a heli-coil repair kit and just do all 4 studs. It's really not that hard of a job. If the bolt holes have been drilled out past the diameter of the helicoil, you can use timeserts because they're often thicker than a helicoil. Either way, jumping to the conclusion you have to replace the head because the bolt holes are a bit messed up is ridiculous.
96 legacy ran great
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
If it happened right after connecting the wires and was fine before, unplug the battery for half an hour. I bought a car that had a bad speed sensor and iffy spark plugs, but ran ok. I reset the ECU with a scan tool and it ran like complete garbage until I unplugged the battery and let the ECU reset. Maybe something similar happened.