987687
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Posts posted by 987687
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I see them all the time around here, but Maine is the mecca for all things subrau (and rust...)
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Here you can find more information about your car. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2003.html
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Sounds like you bought an outback sedan. The outback is basically a legacy with raised suspension and some aesthetic options. Most outbacks are wagons, but they did make some outback sedans.
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You are correct, rear diff spins all the time since there are no axle disconnects.
Level all the way down is 2 hi. One click up is 4 hi. If you pull it up just a touch more you'll find a neutral between hi and low range, if you pull it all the way up you'll be in 4 lo.
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10w30 is fine.Or look at the user manual and use what the engineers at Subaru suggest.
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Do your calipers operate freely? I had an issue with the parking brake not releasing all the way dragging the brake pads just a tiny amount. If I hit both sides with a heat gun after a highway run, one brake rotor was a good bit warmer than the other, but not enough to smell like burning brakes. Going from that extra heat to parking the car with the brake on causes hot spots in the rotor warps it. I drove it like that until the rotor actually cracked... A new rotor and caliper fixed the problem.
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If you use paypal, worst case you can always file a dispute if they don't send your part.
DO NOT PAY AS A GIFT! If you pay as a gift, you can't make a dispute, if they insist you pay as a gift.... They're trying to scam you...
Either that or they're worried you'll file a dispute after you get the parts and screw them over... craigslist distrust goes both ways, having been screwed as a buyer and a seller, I get it.
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Sounds good, I'll get those parts and just keep them on hand. I really want to know WHAT is causing the problem. I wish I had my fancy DMM or oscilloscope or something so I could check if there was actually an injector pulse on cylinder one. It had spark, but unplugging the injector did nothing.
I find it weird that the only way to fix the problem is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
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I have a 98 brighton with an extremely intermittent problem - it's only happened twice in the ~20k miles I've had it.
I have no CEL codes or pending codes, car drives fine... Except these two weird times.Started the car and it idled at 2000rpm and refused to idle down (this recent time the engine was warm). So I shut the car off, waited a minute, and started it back up again. When it started back up it was running on 3 cylinders. Unplugging the cylinder 1 injector makes no difference at all, thus my determination it's not running on that cylinder.
Both times I unplugged the positive terminal on the battery, hit the brakes (to bleed any residual power out of the system), and plugged the battery back in. After doing that, the car runs great again.
The only maintenance items I've done are oil changes, spark plugs, and PCV valve.
I tried unplugging the MAF sensor and the o2 sensor as I've had those cause weird problems in the past, but no difference.
Sadly this hasn't happened at home when I can plug the injector harness into an oscilloscope, maybe run a function generator to the injector to see what happens if I manually actuate it, etc... Instead I was 400 miles from home hoping I could drive home on all 4 cylinders....
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The cable doesn't really stretch, and if it did, that's the point of the adjustment.
You didn't remove the pivot ball and put it in the wrong hole on the transmission, did you?
Are you sure you're adjusting the clutch correctly. When the pedal is up (pull it back up if it sticks down) there should be between 1/8" and 1/4" play at the clutch fork. -
There really isn't much to go wrong in there, honestly. Have you confirmed that pushing the clutch pedal is moving the clutch fork? Did you put the throw out bearing clips in properly to hold the throwout bearing to the clutch fork?
It is possible for clutch forks to crack/break in half, that didn't happen, did it?
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I guess also check to make sure it doesn't have a ton of play in the axle stubs.
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Gear ratio is 3.90, if your loyale is a manual (and not turbo), it's the same gear ratio. Shift the transmission through all gears, 4wd, high and low. Make sure they all click in. Grab the input shaft and make sure it doesn't have too much play in it, side to side or in/out. See if it's leaking a ton of oil out of all the seals or not.
Would be great if it still has the oil in it, take a drain pan and drain the oil. Make sure it's clean, not black, and not full of swirly metal or chunks of anything.
It's going to hard to tell if it has bad input bearings or crunchy synchros, especially if you can't look at the oil. You win some, you lose some..
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Yes, the big tumor on the right with two wires going into it fails and prevents you from turning the key all the way off and removing it.
It's a bit of a pain to get to when it's on the steering column, iirc, but it should be doable. It's the cause of your problems.
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Yes, exactly, In park and key won't release... The stupid thingy circled in red that's attached to the ignition tumbler can fail and make the key get stuck. It happened to my 98 lgt. You have to remove two phillips screws holding it on and a connector, then throw it in the trash.
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The car is trying to tell you what's wrong, read the code that's setting the check engine light. Anything else is random stabbing in the dark.
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The automatic ignition tumbler has a solenoid type thing on it that locks the key in unless the transmission is in park, these things can fail. One easy repair is to remove the offending part and you'll be able to take the key out even if you don't shift into park.
This is technically dangerous because it means you could shut the car off in drive, pull out the key, and walk away letting the car roll off. Your choice, I just remove them.
Take the plastic off the steering column, there are two screws on the bottom. You'll need a #2 phillips screwdriver with a decently long shaft.
Tilting the wheel all the way down will give you the access you need.
This picture has two things circled in red, the left one is the switch that makes the dinger come on when the key is in the ignition and the door is open. The right circle is the thingy that prevents you from removing the key. Unscrew it, unplug it, don't look back.
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If the belts were tight before the oil leak, and now they're kinda gummy and loose... Yep. Replace them. Belts suck up oil and get gummy, that's why you have to replace a timing belt if it gets even a small amount of oil on it.
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I had my clutch cable break in traffic on i84 going through Hartford. What a mess. Fortunately I had my mountain bike with me, so I used the shifter and brake cables to create a makeshift clutch cable. Made a lot of people mad by idling along in traffic in 1st gear. Oh well, it got me back to Maine.
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The more annoying thing there is having the nut stick to the stud and unthread the stud out of the engine. Since there isn't clearance past the axle you have to slowly pull the engine away from the transmission while unthreading the stupid thing.
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That linkage being loose will just cause slop in the shifter. It'll make the shifter wobble back and forth when it's in gear, etc. If you have any plans on replacing the shift linkage bushings, do it while the transmission is out. It's a pain doing it in car.
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You should actually replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. If they're been in there a long time, they'll probably disintegrate when you take them out.
Also buy at least two hose clamps for the radiator hoses, and two for the heater core hoses. If you still have the stock wire band kind, they'll be a ball of rust and break when you remove them.
I know everyone is saying not to take anything else apart or whatever while you're in there but.... If you're close to a timing belt job, it's a hell of a lot easier with the engine sitting on the floor.
Replace the valve cover gaskets and grommets. It's like $20 in parts and every subaru has leaky VC gaskets. Make yours not have leaky VC gaskets.
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Pretty much any EJ transmission will work as long as you make sure to get the matching rear end. I wouldn't suggest an outback or 2.5RS transmission, they have a shorter 5th gear which means pretty high revvs on the highway. Since it's a forester with bigger tires, you don't want a 3.9 transmission. I've done big tires on a 3.9, it's not ideal. So something out of a forester or legacy GT would be best (pre-04), the later ones work, too. But they don't have a speed sensor, so you need a converter box from the ABS.
98 and earlier transmissions only have 4 bellhousing bolts, whereas your engine has 8 bolts. This doesn't matter, you can swap those in just fine. You'll only have one starter bolt in this case, the torque from the starter goes through the mounting flange, not the bolt. There is a lot of discussion (often flame wars....) over this one. But I've done this swap many times, seen it done many times, never heard of a single issue.
If you get a transmission with a cable clutch that's also fine. You need to move the pivot to the other location in the bellhousing and source a hydraulic clutch fork.
I don't know what other forester years have a pedal box that will work, nor do I know if any EJ trans crossmember will fit, or if it has to be forester specific. You do, however, need a manual forester driveshaft. Impreza ones are the same length, but the offset on the center bearing is different.
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The best way to do the swap is to get a manual forester parts car for cheap. Crashed, rusted out, etc. That way you'll be sure to have all the stupid little parts you don't realize you need from the junkyard.
Big items you'll need to swap are: trans, driveshaft, rear diff, trans crossmember, pedal box (clutch/brake pedal), clutch stuff on engine.
MAKE SURE TO USE MANUAL FLYWHEEL BOLTS!!!! They're longer than flexplate bolts as the flywheel is thicker.
With both cars side by side, it isn't a terribly hard swap, just move parts from one car to the other. If you haven't done the swap before you'll drive yourself insane when you forget some stupid bolt, bracket, or clip at the junkyard and can't figure out how it's supposed to go together.
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what model is this?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I think technically only the 97 and 98 ones are called an SUS, then they called it the outback sedan afterwards.