987687
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Posts posted by 987687
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Really working on your car means starting an engine swap at 7pm and needing to get to work the next morning at 6.30 am.
Or breaking down in the middle of a road trip, or being on a business trip 1000 miles away and trying to find somewhere to replace your clutch....[ /QUOTE]
ya, getting drunk with your friends on a road trip in florida and running into a parking meter across from the police station and putting a big hole in the radiator.
next day taking the rad out at the park and a couple tubes of weld and putting it back together.
selling your blood on a cross country trip back to california , partying all the way.
now , that's living.
Yes indeed! There's a lot of adventure to bed had out on the road with cars. I just hope I don't run across any more of the "what the hell is that terrible vibration" situations at 1am 800 miles from home. Makes good stories later. It's almost funny looking back.
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Wow! Nice find. I'd really love to have an ea81 car. They're all so awesome.
Some day I'd like to get a relatively clean ea81 body and swap full ej driveline into it.
I usually work on cars for fun but I now know the meaning really working on a car.Really working on your car means starting an engine swap at 7pm and needing to get to work the next morning at 6.30 am.
Or breaking down in the middle of a road trip, or being on a business trip 1000 miles away and trying to find somewhere to replace your clutch....
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New washer pump and spark plug wires. Easy morning.
That reminds me... And I've probably just jynxed it, but my washer pump doesn't leak. For some crazy reason.
It's missing the o-ring completely. It has about half a tube of blue RTV gooped around the whole thing and that somehow seals it up. It's been like that for over 2 years now.
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Copart is a Great Website, my Wife won an auction there and She bring a Car from USA to Honduras Successfully, just using internet.
That is the Way Hondurans (and Latin Americans) does their Swaps... Using the Entire Parts from the Donor car...
I've seen that many times, always with great results.
But You'll need to Swap other things from the the EJ Donor Car, such like Hubs & Brakes to use its Axles... etc.
Kind Regards.
You can make hybrid axles to keep the ea hubs.
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Have you ever replaced the Front O2sensor? The rear has nothing to do with fuel mixture, it's there to merely to check the efficiency of the cats. The front sensor does all the adjusting work. I'd try replacing that before gutting the cats.
If the cats are clogged, you'll lose power in the high rpm range first.
+1 to this.
The cat clogged in my dad's truck. It still had all the off idle torque it always had, but it got to the point where it would barely rev over 2k RPMs.
Still though, it would take off from idle fast as ever.
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If I was gonna EJ swap a GL, and not use it for offroading. I'd probably swap the EJ transmission as well. Weld up a custom crossmember, and the custom driveline would most likely come out cheaper than an adapter plate and flywheel. You have more clutch choices, gearing choices, and the EJ tranny is better. You get AWD. The 2wd/4wd bothers me on the street.
But that's just MY personal opinion on how a swapped street car should be done.
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Whatever you do, don't use one of those reverse extractor things. They rarely work. If they do work, something else would have also worked. Like left hand drill bits.
Most of the time if they don't make a huge mess of the stud, go off to one side, and ruin the threads. They'll just break off. Then you have a really big mess.
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Torque bind isn't just rear or front binding. Torque bind is the word that stemmed from automatic transmission center clutches not disengaging. But the asem word does apply to fried center diffs in the manual transmission.
It's not front or back wheels binding independently, it happens because the front and back diff aren't allowed to spin at a different speed. Think of a 4wd truck in 4wd on dry pavement. That is exactly the idea behind what happens when a subaru center diff locks up.
If your manual transmission was having a binding problem that a oil change fixed, something is probably wrong with it. If the front diff was binding up, chances are it's been ruined.
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Just found this on Ebay. It looks exactly the same and I get the brakes and the other sides arm. Wonder how much the shipping would cost; can't be more than $50 I would think.
It came off of a Brat Would it fit my gl hatchback?
No, the ea81 ones are smaller. It has to be off an ea82.
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I'd add a return spring. I measured the distance from the fork to the bracket. Went to a hard ware store and got a spring that was about the right length. Then cut the end and made a new bend so it was perfect. My car didn't have one when I got it either, and I figured why not add one when I put in the new clutch.
There's probably a specific subaru part for the return spring, but $1.50 the local hardware store was easier.
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It does't look like that'll allow the seal to seat all the way in. And it'll probably leak. At the very least use a dremel or something and make a flat place for the inside of the seal to mount, then yea, possibly use rtv around it to seal it.
Personally, I'd just source one that isn't buggered up. A properly done rear wheel bearing will last the rest of the life of the car. Do it properly and never touch it again.
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Just to clarify. Read carefully what I wrote........if you car is a MANUAL TRANNY, then you would want to change the front diff fluid. This cures front wheel torque bind.
Rear wheel torque bind is a problem with the center diff.
Sorry, but that doesn't make any sense.
In a manual the front diff and gearbox share the same oil. There's one dip stick, one drain plug.
The front diff is also open. On EVERY subaru except the STi. With no exception (except maybe JDM stuff, no idea there).
The center diff is a sealed unit. No gear oil touches the inner workings of the center diff.
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I agree with GD on that one. Around here, I can get a decent first gen with only minor issues for $1500 all day. Often less. I wouldn't DD a loyale.
I have a GL and I love it. Wouldn't trade it for anything, it's a fun car.
But I drive my $400 2nd gen as my daily car. Those can be had wicked cheap with a bad DOHC motor, slap in a 2.2 and call it a day.
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i had the same issue..... i had my girl push the engine backas hard as she could while i was under the car pushing the tranny up and toward the engine....and voila! like a glove.....was veryy hard though....had to really muscle that sucker
I don't want to break my back installing an engine. That's why I have hoists and tools. If it doesn't just go together, I use mechanical advantage. My wrench on the bellhousing bolts. I'd rather screw up a car than my back.
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Once you have it so that the pins are touching, the splines are definitely mated. You can turn the engine with the tranny in gear. If the driveshaft or axles turn, you know it's mated, but it is.
I usually use sand paper/file/whatever to clean out the holes and the alignment pins, then coat them with anti-seize. That way they slide together easier, and don't stick in the future.
Still, sometimes it won't just slide together, I start tightening down the bolts one by one in an X pattern to suck the engine and trans together, nice and straight.
Whether that's proper or not, I've done it a lot of times with no issue.
:clap:
:brow:
My new score :) and a couple issues....
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I like the redline on the speedometer. It's a turbo, what did they expect. People to speed or something?