lone500

a/c whats that i took mine off

ah good thought fuzpile

it depends on the motor but it could be using 4 or 4 and a half quarts or so. and i would say pull the motor again and replace the rear main and if it looks like your still loosing oil from the seperator plate then do that again. good luck.

94 legacy is what i have. it hasent happened again and i havent had any problems so far. ill still get my alternator checked out.

no abs on my car but ya ill check the alternator out. thanks guys

today when i was driving my battery light and my brake light came on at the same time for a minute then went off. this every happened to anyone else?

looked like my knock sensor wire had had some funny stuff done to it before. and im not really sure what soldered means. and where exactly are the vss and neutral switch? ill double check but im not sure which ones those are.

so i got my engine in my car today. got everything hooked up and it fired up. after working the cooling system kinks out so it would run without overheating i noticed some other things. on my test drive it didnt have near as much power as it should. on a hill i usually drive up in 3rd gear part way then switch to second gear and have no problem pulling it i had to go first gear the whole way because second gear would bog down. noticed some check engine trouble codes. code51-abnormal signal from neutral/inhibitor switch. ok what is this? code22-knock sensor. my friend in his zeal to help me cut the wire to the knock sensor when taking the engine out. he put it back together and taped it but its possible he didnt do it right. code33-vehicle speed sensor. mmm ok not sure on this one that much either. im sure someone could help me with some of this oh ya since i know someone will ask- its a 94 legacy. 2.2l 16 valve

i dont know. right before my engine stopped on me i was sitting there cranking reving 5k up and down cause my cars got no muffler and it sounds good anyway the other dude in a truck who was doing it with me stopped after we did it about 30 seconds and pointed behind me. there was a huge cloud of smoke lol. anyway i had a burnt valve and there was a huge chunk missing from it. also had a leaky headgasket.

ya i agree with you. if its in the back i would definately get a friend to sit outside while you do drivebys back and forth to at least see which side its coming from

gotta put a new throwout bearing on before i reassemble everything. should i replace the pressure plate while im at it? how much would that cost and how do you do that btw also took my A/C compressor off too. over all i expect to be very happy. till i have to buy new tires

it could be a few things but when my wheel bearing went out on the front it made a whirring sound that got worse with speed. you could hear it on the interstate and thats loud lol.

had a burnt valve with a huge chunk missing from it and a leaky HG. new clutch and all that while the engines out. should be sticking it back in tommarow. i put 35k miles on it since i got it and it had a burnt valve the whole time

i had this exact same problem from not torquing the bolt down good. if your pulley is messed up you will need a new one. basicaly you will have to grind off the old key in the end of the crank. take the crank sprocket off to get the nub of the old key out and put in the new one (and hope to god the hole the key goes in isnt messed up). put in a new key and reassemble and make sure to tighten it very good. havent had a problem with mine in this area yet. just other problems

thanks john i might end up going and getting that 200 dollar subie. really good option. the one thing on my mind with it. i would have to tow it. my way is asking my buddy to hook up his car dolly and use go up there and get it. any problems on towing it?

did a compression test today. the cylinder on the same side with the bad one registered 150 psi. the bad one registered 15 psi. guess its toast and time for a new engine huh?

im in north carolina

i would really like to find a parts car for the engine ya know.

my 94 legacy is fwd. was wondering if i need a specific engine for it since im needing a new engine or would any engine 91-94 work as i think it will?

im already of the same mindset. possibly look for a wrecked subie or something so i could have a parts car and yank the engine out

how exactly do i pull the codes for it? the other 3 plugs looked like they were burning a little rich and hot but nothing to abnormal. the one plug had black junk fouling it all up. just waiting to do compression test tommarow and everything. but my thought is the rings are gone and the pistons cracked possibly. btw the rings havent been to awesome for a while. my car had a salvaged title. the engine was immaculate when i got it. i think they rebuilt it and didnt hone the cylinders and nows the time that one crapped out.

ya i already figured on doing a compression test. gonna borrow a friends tommarow. ive had a code 35 for a long time and i dont know if its showing any other codes or anything. uh when it happened i was going to a friends house. went fine out the driveway and down the road to the interstate. got on and after a little while i noticed i didnt have near as much power as i should have. wasnt pulling up hills right and everything. when i got off at the exit i was going to i noticed it downshifted fine down to my stop at the light. when i went to turn and took off i noticed bad hesitation and that i surely wasnt getting the power i should because of the way it was revving up and eveything and by how bad it idled. took it to my friends house and checked plugs and wires. the plug in the cylinder im having problems with was really black and nasty and was fouled out. so i picked up a set and replaced all the plugs. switched wires and all that to make sure they were all good. all getting strong sparks and everything. changed injectors around and found it wasnt the injector at fault. the problem still remains in that cylinder.

my car is a 94 legacy. i stopped getting anything from the cylinder closest to the driver seat. checked plugs, wires and stuff and they were all fine and then switched injectors to see if that was the problem and it wasnt. so can anyone tell me what might be the problem?

ya i got a left front end clunk when ever i hit any bumps and stuff. its been 30k miles since i replaced the struts so there in good shape. its the ball joint on mine. i know it is. i replaced the front right ball joint and it was slap wore out. so wore out the wheel had play in it. i just havent had time to replace that other balljoint.

ya i didnt think about the need to replace timing belt and water pump while im in there. ill look around and see what i can find. im pretty sure i could find a wrecked subie with a good engine sometime. it will fall into place when it will i agree in the end it would just be better to put in a new engine. ill just have to wait and see what comes up. thanks everyone!