Everything posted by Kostamojen
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
The 5-speed case is different, I have to keep the same transmission case due to how the inboard brakes bolt onto the transmission (whats interesting is the case design wasnt changed over the years sans the 5-speeds, but they plugged up the bolt holes on the case for the inboard brakes! Otherwise I might be able to use it)
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
I have the 1100, 1300, 1400, 1600 FSM's as well. Although, I know there are different year ones... My 1400 FSM is from ~72, but aparently theres one from like around 76? :-\ Anyway, back to transmission questions... Since the final drive gear is not swapable, what about ALL the gears? Could forseably I use a gear set in better condition/different ratios from another 4-speed? Or is the FF-1 not compatible? (i'll take a look at the FSM's tommorow myself just in case, I had a 12 hour work day today, but i figured i'd bring it up anyway)
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
Great info, thanks! Keep in mind, the whole engine wont be in and running for quite some time... (years possibly at this rate) But it helps to have as much info here as possible so I can reference it when needed
-
Front diff interchangeability: The true answer
Sorry to bump this... Did anyone find out more about the 4-speed LSD's? If not, I intend to pop open the case on my FF-1 and compair it to a spare differential I have from an EJ 5-speed, see what I find.
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
What about in combination with the cam with the taller lift? Anyway, another question... Transmission thoughts: Front LSD possible? How about converting to a lower final gear (IE changing this from the stock 4.125 to 3.8 or 3.7? Assuming its simular to other EA 4-speeds...
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
The 1100/1300G FSM doesnt show intake and exhaust valve specs, just one set of specs... Outer spring: 42.2mm free length, 4mm wire diameter, 26mm maximum compressed length, maximum tension 43.7~50.3kg@28mm. Inner spring: 45.5mm free length, 2.6mm wire diameter, 24.3mm maximum compressed length, maximum tension 19.1~22.1kg@26mm. The EA71 tension is lower on the outter spring, SLIGHTLY higher on the inner spring, and half a cm taller... It looks like however the BEST valve springs are the "Sport" (IE dual carb, 95hp EA62/63) valve springs... But theres no way to get those, and if I could, i'd want the WHOLE engine :-p
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
Even cutting them down, what about the distance beetween that clip slit and the top of the valve stem, doesnt that need to be the same?
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
I havent seen any valve springs for sale, i've been looking. If you know somewhere or someone that has some, let me know. Also, need to figure out which ones have which tensions... Dont really want ones with lower tension rates, higher if possible.
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
I just measured the camshaft. The EA61 camshaft has 31mm lift, while the EA62/63 camshaft is ~33mm. Sound like a good improvement?
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
Heres a couple things I picked up on E-bay for really cheap that I wanted to see if were compatible with the EA61... Now the valves obviously are larger, but i'm concerned more about the length. The length will probably cause them to be incompatible, but i'm not sure if that can be fixed. I now some custom head work can fit the valves into the sockets, but thats different than modifying the valves themselves. The camshaft on the other hand looks to be rather compatible. Might require some work to use, but nothing major. The interesting thing is the lobes are taller, which means more lift, but the duration looks simular but sharper. I have all the actual camshaft numbers if anyone is interested in figuring out if the 1300/1400 camshaft is actually an upgrade for the 1100... (I bought it mostly cause I do believe this stock camshaft is shot, and a NOS camshaft that can be modded by someone like Deltacams is something useful to have)
-
is this info accurate?
EA bell housings are a seperate piece on the engine, not the transmission, just to make things clear. Heres an EA with the bellhousing... Now here it is with it removed...
-
is this info accurate?
I believe you need your EA63 bell housing with the EA71. Basically, I think you need to use the EA71, you need to run the full EA71 engine but use the clutch/bellhousing/flywheel/etc. from the EA63. You may need to use the distributor/alternator/etc. setup from your EA63, but the carb might not matter as much.
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
I think everything on that website is custom, but it is good to use as something to work with design wise... Anyway, I removed the transmission today, took a couple photos so you can get an idea of exactly how TINY this drivetrain is! I also removed the steering column and ventilation system, but I didnt photograph that today.
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
Wow, someone in Japan actually has pictures of an aftermarket muffler for the FF-1...
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
Well I went ahead and split the block today... Good thing I did, I found the center main bearings are damaged and the rest do need replacing. I didnt completely split the block though, left the pistions in, just split it enough to get out the camshaft and look inside. The camshaft needs a little help too, its got some damage too...
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
Thats what I need to know... If anyone has or can make the required parts.
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
Thats honestly what I want to do, but I cant find those sleeve gasket thingies anywhere... I can find bearings (although none stock size so far, either + size or - size) and piston rings, but thats it.
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
I figured some of you might enjoy this comparison, gives you a better idea of exactly how small the EA61 actually is... As you can see, I got the valves out today. I'm still not sure what I should do about the shortblock... Leave it or split it? It needs cleaning at the very least, which is hard to do while its not split. But if I cant get it back together again, theres no good reason to split it...
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
Should I try and split the short block? I really want to have a cam done and maybe some custom higher compression pistons with new rings and bearings and such, but i'm not sure if it can be rebuilt properly due to those copper rings... What do you guys think?
-
Weber on a '74 1400
The weber will be easier to plug in than with the 1600 (not as many wierd vacuum lines to deal with) I'm going to use a 1400 intake manifold for my 1100 so I can use the weber, but I wont have it running any time soon to see how well it works...
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
Here is actually 1 page of scans from one of the brochures I touched up for posting...
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
Scanning and posting images takes me like 100x longer than posting photos from my camera... If I ever have a couple weeks where I don't have a job and nothing else to do, ill get back to you about that...
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
You mean the service manuals or the brochures? My ff-1 service manuals are technically "on loan"... I'm kind of looking to find my own pair. The 1300 and 1600 manuals I just bought on Ebay for extra info for this build in case I need it.
-
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
So, I've been picking up a few things here or there online... Most of the new ff-1 documents are courtesy McBrat The intake manifold is courtesy fishnidiot And the Weber carb is courtesy Jibs
-
What to do with an EA71?
Ill could use the water crossover pipe and crank pulley off of one that isnt in good shape :-p
