Kostamojen

Well thats about all an Art degree is good for anyway... :-p :-\

I've had some color theory education, so I might say your car is a littly "gaudy" with the bright yellow grill and such, but thats just paint so no big deal :-p

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLBoZkeumoY

Couple New Old Stock items (courtesy Mcbrat) and my painted/restored grill and emblem...

Ya, the only thing that needs serious metal work is the sideskirt areas and the floorboard... I'm going to pop the fenders soon and see how bad it is under there, I also need a better look at the firewall and under the seats and sound deadening matterial in the front foot wells. Those are the general areas I'm concerned about. The rest of the body just needs dents removed and/or holes pluged, so thats not too big of a deal.

Just for reference, I had a '65 Mustang in the family that was kept original and was sold back around 2000. By original, I mean near perfect original... But it was just a 6-cylinder nothing-on-it model, so it wasnt that valuble. That car was worth keeping stock. But this FF-1... Cant be kept stock. Sorry guys. It needs major body work which wont be original body work anymore, cause well, new body work isnt original. The interior melted into smithereens (even the "cardboard" shifter console came apart in my hands as I removed it) and "original" interiors for this car do not exist anymore, so it will have to be custom. As for wheels... Wheels are wheels, everyone does something different when it comes to wheels, no big deal, and also non-permenant. And I'm not sure I should follow the traditional USMB "original" Subaru cadigory anyway... That seems to require lots of spray paint, dirt roads, and eventually, no more car left at all :-p In case you are wondering... Yes, I would have kept an FF-1 stock if it was in good "original" condition such as our 1965 Mustang was.

Maybe, but it would probably be simpler to have a custom 2-piece wheel made with a custom 4x140 center section with the proper offset...

So after doing a bit more ressearch, It appears that non-Pugeot 14's are next to impossible to find or even find any information about... Those SMSG 14"s and 14" Enkeis are basically out of the question. So right now, its probably down to possibly having those Speedlite wheels custom made with a proper offset, or steelies... Unless someone else has another option (still don't want 13's... ever)

Size/dimensions and offset? Pictures? But really, I'm not that interested in steelies... There are far more, better options out there still.

Oh, and i've been browsing the 4x140 wheel page... I think my favorite two 14" wheels (OTHER than the 15" speedlines) are: 1) Enkei Wirespoke "look" 14x6" (whats the offset on these?) and 2) 14x6 SMSG (Subaru Mortorsports Special Group) Full Fins [offset might be too high actually for these] So if anyone has any comments about those or more info, let me know...

Couple quick things... Forgot to take a good picture of the radiator support/setup with the hood up for reference, so here we go: Anyhow, back onto wheels. I took a closer look at my wheel clearances in the back. The fronts have almost zero clearance problems other than the fender of course, so the primary concern is the rear. That washer that holds the rear suspension on has an odd bend that sticks out for no apparent reason... Loosing that will net a little more clearance, so I measured it based on removing that. It looks like theres only about 1cm of clearance right now between the tire and the end of the tie rod/joint of the trailing link as you can see here: The wheel has less than 2.5cm (about 2.35cm) of clearance from the suspension. So a simular 6" wide wheel with say a +50 offset would HIT the suspension (being that offset is based on milimeters). An offset of around +35-40 seems to be about right IF I used a narrower tire. As for the fender clearance, right now the rear tire sticks out about 2cm from the fender, but will need between 3-4cm less width in order to fit (3cm would be with a bit of fender rolling/tweaking but not cutting, 4cm would be clearing without any modification probably) Now, according to my not-so great estimates, running a +35 offset 6" wide wheel with a 7.7" or less section width tire would clear the suspension fine and bring the tire aproximatly the 2cm inwards to the fenders... In order to get clear of the fender (~3cm), the 6" wide wheel will need aproximitly a +40 offset wheel with a 7.4" section width or less... A 5.5" wheel with a +45 offset would also work with that simular section width of tire AND bring the tire in even closer under the fender. Idealy, i'd use some other wheels/tires to check these results... But I think the best option would be to find out which wheels are availible and with what offsets.

Now i've been doing some wheel/tire ressearch the past couple hours in my free time... I can't quite find the correct offset number for the 15" pugs, but they do appear to be about ~+20 Idealy, I'd like to run as large of wheel as possible with as wide of tire as possible while keeping the tires as tucked in as possible. It was mentioned earlier in this thread that one of the JDM cars with the "superlite-like" wheels was running 185/55/14's, but we don't know the offset on those wheels. I'd like to stay with a 6" wheel if possible, and from what I see in the Pack Racing Superlite wheel information, there was a 14x6" wheel that Subaru's had stock at some point, and those had a +42 offset. The 15x6" Superlights that are still availible are a low +24 offset, not much better than the Pug's I currently have... There is Superlight with a +33 offset with the 15x6" wheel, but it only comes in a 4x108 or 4x98 bolt pattern for old Alphas. It may be possible to have that wheel made with a custom bolt pattern, but its still not that great of an offset. So right now i'm not sure what options I really have (and i'm sorry, I refuse to run 13x4.5's with 165 series tires on this car, and I don't want ugly wheels like the 14" alloy pugs). As for tires, I did some ressearch on that too. I plan on running summer-only tires on the car, but I need tires narrower than what I have now for sure... Right now, I have Hankook Ventus HRII's in 205/50/15. They were a cheap tire and what I could get at that time. They work great though. Their specs are: Hankook Ventus HRII 205/50/15, Section width - 8.3", Tread width - 6.7", Diameter 23.1" I found a good option for 15" wheels that is slightly smaller and may help with clearance, but might not be small enough... Khumo Ecsta SPT 195/45/15, Section width - 7.7", Tread width N/A, Diameter - 21.9", Weight 17lbs, Cost - $90.00 I think those would work well with a 15x6 wheel with a +35-40 offset wheel, should clear the rear fenders better, and clear the suspension good enough too. However, for 14" tires, there seem to be better options... Yokohama ES100 185/60/14, Section width - 7.4", Tread width - 6.4", Diameter - 22.7", Weight 17lbs, Cost - $75.00 (These should clear everything fine with a ~+35-40 offset wheel) Dunlop SP Sport 8000 195/55/14, Section width - 7.7", Tread width 6.9", Diameter 22.4", Weight 16lbs, Cost - $99.00 (Might still clear fine, also cost more and have less diameter but a higher cost) And I also found this option... Kind of crazy being race tires (not 100% slicks, but R-compounds) and are on BLOWOUT through Tirerack for $59.00 Khumo Ecsta V700 185/55/14, Section width - 7.6", Tread width - N/A, Diameter 21.9", Weight 18lbs I really dont plan on driving the car that much, and at $56.00 a tire thats just insane cheap for a sticky tire that would be fun to drive around! (I probably wont drive the car in the rain either, so no biggie there) So anyway, if you guys have any wheel suggestions for 14" or other 15" options, or someone willing to buy my pugs + tires for $300, let me know...

Sorry, my fender cutting comments scared everyone :-p

Honestly, I don't need a heater... It never gets that cold here. Never snows, and rain is almost too much of a rarity. If anything, I need A/C for the hot summers. But really the reason for using a single larger radiator is the fact you cant get replacement radiators for this car, and the radiator resevoir is in poor condition and needs to go. Right now, I've basically decided I want to keep the 1100. I like the idea of having such a SMALL engine in the car Of course, i'd like to improve it as much as possible via upgrades: Cams, distributor, coil pack, carburator, possibly a different intake manifold, headwork, maybe higher-compression pistons, etc. I have the two service manuals, but no parts manuals. I'm putting together a more thorough list as I go along, but it won't be complete until I've got the dash apart and the engine and suspension out of the car.

Heres my 2nd major photoshop attempt... Thoughts?

1975 or older. It used to be 30 years, but Gov. Arnold cut it off at 30 years in 2005...

Yes, the car is held to specific smog limits. And one of those limits is that a car not equiped with a catalytic converter cannot have one mounted in addition to its stock smog components, mostly for the reason RenaissanceMan listed. And if your car is not running right, IE backfiring or making extra smoke, chances are it won't pass. Your best bet is if you arent sure if it will pass, do a pre-test to see what the emissions are currently at.

Day 8.5: A continuation of yesterdays work... I spent most of today re-organizing the parts i've taking off the car so far into boxes and labeling everything along with dismantling the bumpers and a couple other things. I also worked on the grill a bit including painting it and i've started working on that front logo too No pictures of that yet, but I'll post a picture soon... I went ahead and removed more bits off the front for preperation, including the headlights, corner lights, and lower bumper cover. As you can see, theres really nothing holding that stuff on, the bulk of the chassis is on the side in the front and there is really no lower support in the front! If I do decide to go with a single radiator, this setup makes it extremely easy to build a custom radiator support that will work just perfect for the car. It also makes it really easy to remove the engine when the time comes Anyhow, heres a couple of interesting pics:

Day 8: I didnt have much time today due to dealing with smogging my daily driver Impreza, but I did get a couple things done... 1) Removed the front carpet and side sill pieces 2) Removed the "cardboard" shifter console 3) Removed the rear seat interior side boards (popped right out) 4) Removed the erroded door and window weather stripping 5) Removed what was left of the vinly headliner and a couple other roof pieces that were screwed in 6) Vacumed a heck of a lot of crap out from all those areas... 7) Removed the front blinkers that were on the hood 8) Ran the car for awhile, then pulled it up front for pictures in good light 9) Removed the front grill last and i'm starting to clean that up to give everyone a good idea of what kind of restoration I plan on doing for some of the car... So anyhow, heres the pics from today, probably the best ones yet: Note: The rear of that shifter linkage is not connected to anything! Oh, and I finally got a good idea of how small this car is after pulling it out onto the street... VERY small! Which rocks!

Its not legal in California what so ever, so technically it can't pass smog. BUT, it might run well enough and if you use the stock airbox modified to fit they might miss it and pass it...

Nope, only the 1100

The stock struts are shot. I just need replacement shots, preferably upgraded shocks too if possible. As for the brakes, the 1300G did have the inboard disc brakes in the front, so finding those would be ideal and not really change the car at all other than improve the braking. I'm hoping to drive it a little more this weekend, but don't expect much...

According to CA law, if your car does not have a cat on it stock, you can not add one to pass emissions. As for the rest of the exhaust, you can replace it with whatever you want since it is just all piping, as long as you keep it under 95 decibles. I'd just go custom if I were you...

good stuff!

Thats all I really want/need out of it... I'm just not sure how well it will do with the 1100 until I'm at the point when I can get it out and drive it and see how it does. I don't want to do any EJ or even EA81 swaps at this point or anytime in the future... In fact, I'd like to keep it as one of the dual port head EA engines no matter what I do. Theres really no other ways to "modernize" the car... I would like to find a way to upgrade the brakes somehow, and for sure get better struts on there, but other than that theres not much that can be "modernized" on this car without major MAJOR redesigning that I can't really do nor do I want to.