[Walker Valley 10/25/14]

I am ready to go again. Anybody else interested? I have only been to walker once so I will be following, not leading. Who's in?

[New Lifted Wagon at Walker Valley]

Sway bar is gone. Why would I have limited travel? Other than the Honda springs in the rear.

[New Lifted Wagon at Walker Valley]

Thanks guys. This was just a shakedown run. Wanted to make sure everything was good to go before going on a group run. We should plan a group run and go in a couple weeks.

[New Lifted Wagon at Walker Valley]

Hey Guys, So I recently finished building my 1990 loyale into a wheeler. Reid and his Dad helped with lifting my wagon. A big thanks to both of them for the help. It has 6" SJR  suspension drops ront and rear. Home built "BJ"  4" drops everywhere else with rock sliders and bracing. Swapped in a 5 speed dual range. Welded the rear diff. 15" Peugeot wheels with 235/75/R15 Maxxis BigHorn tires (29"). Original 1.8 engine.

 

I took it out on the trail for the first time this last weekend. Reid and I went to walker valley. It was a good time and cannot wait to do it again. Here is some footage. 

 

[Two Soob Sundae]

Now that you have two runners you should lift the GL.

[Dual range bearing noise?]

Thanks for the advice Gloyale. I will drain the fluid and inspect it for metal. When I installed the trans there was a big clump of shavings on the drain plug magnet. I will try a drain and refill and add a quart of lucas like you suggested.

 

I will search the forum for D/R 5spd rebuild threads but if you know of a good one please Link it for me.

[Dual range bearing noise?]

Ok, so I swapped out my single range on my 90 loyale and swaped in a 5sp dual range. My pressure plate, clutch, and throwout bearing had 40,000 miles on them so I put them back in. The throwout bearing felt just fine. Now that I have the dual range in and running I have a noise. It sounds like a "box of rocks" or a rattle. It is not a consistant noise but is present contantly if that make sense. I mean that the noise gets loud and then goes away for a second and then returns. At first I thought it was an exhaust rattle. But when I press the clutch in the noise goes away. It seems like its a bearing but would it be throwout or input? Or could it be broken teeth in the trans? I do not notice the noise getting worse with rpms. I only notice it in neutral at idle. It sounds like it is coming from the rear of the trans. The trans shifts smooth and drives fine. 4 low, 4 hi, and fwd and shift fine. But its sounds bad.

 

WTF?

[Cut the rear off my wagon this last weekend..]

Sweet rig. Nice work. Needs a .50 Cal mounted on the roof.

[1970s side graphics for Loyale]

I get all my custom decals done thru NwVinyls.com. He does very good work. He is a subaru guy and is member of this forum.

[2015 Forester 2.5i with Nav]

I have a 2014 Limited forester. Our third Subaru. It has been a great car. Great fuel economy for an SUV. It handles very well. Sits up nice and high. And has great visibility. Also we love the giant sunroof. The CVT transmission takes some getting used to because its just different. That is were the great fuel economy comes from but it just feels "weird" to me even still. I am so used to manual transmissions and regular automatics. Time will tell if the CVT transmissions hold up for 200,000 - 300,000 miles like I would expect from subaru. Lots of electronic gagets that could fail, but that's true with all new cars. I heard the Subaru navigation was sorta junk so I did not buy the touring edition. Looking back on it now I should have bumped up to the touring edition for the sound system upgrade alone. I have no interest in the eyesight technology since I am not a distracted driver and know when to stop. Both my previous subarus have more cargo space than my new forester, a trade off for more passenger cargo room. The new outback might be another Subaru to consider, it looks to have more cargo room but I did not test drive one.

 

The 2015 line up has a few small upgrades I wish my 2014 had. The 2015 Subaru Forester Touring is what I would buy if I was looking for an SUV.

[WTB - Bill Omlin Monster Lift - 4" or 6" EA82.]

Well I spoke with Bill last night and he has recently moved and is not setup to sell blueprints right now and wont be for an unknown period of time. Does anybody currently have a set of his blueprints or any blueprints for a 6" EA82 lift? I cannot afford to buy a  new built kit. Although I have though about purchasing just the front Strut braces. I have the means to build the kit myself but it would be real nice to have some prints to go off of. If you have blueprints for a 6" EA82 lift kit and are willing to share please PM me. Thanks.

 

Ted.

[8" SJR lift for EA82 one only]

$375 cash & I will come pick it up.

[Ej22 Engine pull to replace all gaskets, Seals, timing belt, et al]

Possibly the input seal on the trans got shredded. Easy to do with the sharp corners on the TC pump drive. Make sure you didn't just cut one of the ATF cooler lines from the trans to the radiator before pulling the engine again.

 

No-start problem... Did you make sure the cam sprockets didnt get mixed up when you removed them to replace the cam seals? Drivers sprocket has notches on the back for the cam position sensor. No cam sensor signal = no start.

 

+ 1. I just did this, got the cam sprockets swapped around and no start. Had to pull apart and do again.

[WTB - Bill Omlin Monster Lift - 4" or 6" EA82.]

Yeah, looks like I will be sending Bill and money order for some Blue prints and fabricating the kit myself.

[WTB - Bill Omlin Monster Lift - 4" or 6" EA82.]

You could also get an SJR Lift.  He makes good stuff too.

 

 

II am sure he does. But the Bill Omlin monster kits looked like they were better built and half the price. I should have bought one three years ago when I was thinking about it.

 

I can get the blueprints from Bill for $25 and build my own kit to those specs but figured I would try and find a complete new or used kit since spare time to build a lift kit is a luxery I dont have much of.

[WTB - Bill Omlin Monster Lift - 4" or 6" EA82.]

One last try, anybody got a kit sitting around they are not using and want to sell?

[WTB - Bill Omlin Monster Lift - 4" or 6" EA82.]

I am still looking.

[1996 Legacy Auto Trans fluid change advice.]

You don't want to go synthetic with an old transmission.

Modern synthetic fluids may not play nice with the seals. It could do more harm than good.

 

Just stick with a regular Dexron III spec fluid. I use the Walmart Supertech Stuff and it works great.

 

The 4eat shifts a little hard anyway, especially when its cold since it seems to hold out the gears a little longer. Pretty normal.

 

As for the shudder, do both axles have the Subaru green cv joints? If not, probably the source of the shudder. Strange as it may sound, using aftermarket axles DOES make the car shudder.

Other than that, you'll want to make sure the maintenance is up to date, good plugs and wires, filters, PCV valve, and make sure there are no vacuum leaks, and the breather and PCV hoses are attached where they should be.

Run a half can of Seafoam in the intake to clean out intake and combustion chamber deposits and that will help smooth out the idle.

 

 

Alright, I will stick with the manufacturer recommended fluid.

 

The shudder was present when I purchased the vehicle with around 95,000 on it. The axles were all original I beleive. I replaced them with all aftermarket recently. This did not change the amount of the shudder at all. What gets me is that it completely goes away when shifting into neutral. That makes me think it is transmission related.

[1996 Legacy Auto Trans fluid change advice.]

Hey Guys, I am doing a full service on my 1996 Legacy L wagon. My questions pretains to the automatic transmission. Most of my vehicles to date have been manual transmissions. This is my first auto trans service. I have read the procedure and its as simple as it gets, pull the plug, drain, add fresh. From what I gather it should take about 4 quarts to fill with just draining the pan and not messing with the torque converter.

 

My question is this: What fluid should I put in there? Stick with cheap fluid or go to something sythetic or "performance". The car has 132,000 miles on it. I purchased from the original owner but have no service paper work. I have put 45,000 on it since I bought it and have not done anything but oil changes untill just recently. I drained both front and rear diffs today and the fluid looked excellent and was not dirty or tinted at all. So, maybe the trans has been serviced as well??? 

 

But, either way. I want to start fresh. What is the best method here? What fluid to you recommend? Should I drain and add, then drive for a week and drain and add again to try and cycle as much old fluid out as possible. Should I consider pulling the pan and replaceing the filter screen while its on the lift?

 

To make this longer than necissary post longer. - The condition of this trans is basically good. It shifts a little hard at times but nothing anoying or concerning. the only thing it does do that stands out is this: At idle while stopped in gear the car will shutter when at a stop light. It shudders pretty damn hard. I own three subarus total and this is not the normal boxer rumble. It is not related to the CV axles like some will likely say. This is different. And when the trans is placed in neutral the shudder goes away completely. Place back in gear and its right back again. The shudder is significant. Been doing this since I bought it. It has not improved or become worse over 45,000 miles. Any ideas?

 

Thanks. Ted.

[WTB - Bill Omlin Monster Lift - 4" or 6" EA82.]

So, for now Bill is not currently making new lift kits. I am looking for someone who has a kit that they purchased and never installed. Or someone selling a used Bill Omlin Monster Lift Kit in 4" or 6" for a EA82. Please PM me if you have one to sell. Local or shipped is fine. Let me know. Again, Intersted in a Bill Omlin Monster 4" or 6" EA82 lift kit, Nothing else. THANKS.

 

Ted.

[Please check over my EJ22 Timing belt / Reseal parts list.]

Thanks guys. the car is a 1996. I added the other oil filler and cam cap O rings to the list and I will take the bolts off the list. 

[Please check over my EJ22 Timing belt / Reseal parts list.]

List looks good to me.  But (1) I don't think you need new valve cover bolts--just the gaskets & grommets.

 

And (2) the Aisin water pump gasket is "coated metal" (not cardboard!) like the OEM product.

 

Good luck.

 

The bolts are cheap and I read about them snapping off in the head on some occasions. Sounds like the Aisin gasket is superior to the OEM gasket. Thanks.

 

How many miles on the engine?

 

132K on the original engine.

[Please check over my EJ22 Timing belt / Reseal parts list.]

Hey Guys, I am due for a timing belt replacement and have an oil leak that hits my exhaust that is getting bad. I have garaged the car and I am in the process of gathering all the parts / materials needed. I have done some reading here and believe I have a good list. Will you guys check my list and add anything I may have missed please.

 

Here is what I have. A kit ordered from MizumoAuto off ebay.

 

 

 

Here is what is on my list to still get. Am I missing anything that I should do as preventative while I am in there? Also, what is an absolute to get from the dealer and what can be purchased from local parts house?

 

 Drive Belt

 Valve cover gaskets

 Valve cover gasket bolts and grommets

 OEM Oil pump O ring.

 OEM Oil pump Anebolic sealant.

 OEM waterpump gasket.

 thermostate + gasket.

 

I do not plan to pull the motor at this time. I beleive the oil leak is coming from the valve cover gaskets and not the oil seperator plate.

 

Thanks.

[What did you pay for your 2014 Forester, and where did you buy.]

Thanks for your reply. I have heard that in the PNW dealers are tough to negotiate with. I have pre approved financing thru my credit union and wont be trading anything in, so its just a matter of finding the model I want and trying to get the best price for it.

 

I will for sure be test driving the 2.5i & 2.0XT forester, and maybe a 2.5i outback.

 

Anybody else want to chime in and recommend a dealer, salesman, & share what kind of deal they were able to work. How is the CVT working out for you?????

[What did you pay for your 2014 Forester, and where did you buy.]

I am looking at buying a new 2014 forester. Going to test drive this weekend. I would like a turbo XT, but think a 2.5i would be more practical and of course more affordable. Pretty set on the limited trim package. I am looking to find the best deal from a dealer that is good to work with here in Washington state.

 

So, Can you please share what you paid out the door. What options and trim level you chose. And where you purchased. Also a quick review of how you are liking your new forester and how the CVT is working for you. Thanks.