tedbull

Went back to napa. Popped off the baffle plate end caps. They were seized on pretty good. Fitting the aftermarket axle was a pain. Even with the strut disconnected and the control arm pushed ad low as I could get it I barely was able to engage the axle onto the outer spline. But I got it and it's done now. Went for a 40 mile drive. All is good. 4x4 works as it should.

Yeah, I just looked in the manual. Baffle plates that pop off. Shoot, back to napa.

The dust cover on the diff side looked like it could possibly be removed, but the dust cover on the wheel side was part of the axle itself and could not be removed. I left the old axle at napa to avoid the $50 core charge.

I picked up the aftermarket replacment axle from napa. The new axle does not have the flanges on the ends that cover and protect the diff / wheel bearings. Is this common for the aftermarket axles? Have you guys done anything to try and seal them up?

I was able to get under the loyale today. Just as you guessed, I found that one of the rear axle shafts had completely failed. I had a slightly difficult time removing it. The tapered spring pins came out easy enough but the axle was so damaged on the outer side that I could not get enough play to pull the couplers off the splines. I had to pull the lower shock mount and push down on the control arm to get a more severe angle so the damaged shaft could pop out of the CV. Then I could pull both the splined couplers off the diff and wheel stub axle. Napa has a refurbed shaft coming that should be here in the morning. $83 + tax with exchange. I will report in after I swap in the new axle. But I expect it will solve the issue with the 4x4. Ted.

Alright, So we had a winter storm blow thru with some snow. I drove the loyale and ended up using my 4 wheel drive a bit here and there to rally around the cityiots. I had not used the 4x4 for a while but it was working great before with no issues. The 4x4 seems to be working BUT... I seem to have two issues now that are related. 1. Now when driving in FWD I can hear a whine in the rear end. It sounds like gear noise for sure, or maybe bearings. BUT... When I engage the 4x4 - the whine goes away instantly and all is quite. This is repeatable, the noise is now constant in FWD, and subsides when engaged in 4x4. 2. Also, when I engage the 4x4 I get some serous gear grinding at the transaxle before it engages. This is repeatable and does it every time I push the button. I have not had the car off the ground or done any testing yet. Only thing I have done to the 4x4 system was to replace the drive shaft due to failed U joints. But the system had ran fine for 25,000 miles after that. It wasn't until not using the 4x4 for a year or so and then using it recently that this issue has come up. Any ideas where to start?

NorthWet, You are a total BadAss. Set screw backed out just like you mentioned. put it back and she fired right up. I owe you a Beer anytime you are in lake stevens. Thanks a Milllion. Since I had good spark I didnt even think to look at the rotor/cap. I will remember that for next time.

Thanks Dee2. I will try and troubleshoot the pump further. Here is what I have found so far. 1. When I turn the key to the on position I hear nothing. When I start to twist the key to crank I get a buzzing/vibrating sound from the rear witch I can only imagine is my fuel pump. I cannot tell if it continues when the cranking starts or not. I looked for my fuel pump relay under the passenger dash and could not Identify it since there is a bunch of stuff under there. 2. My son came home from school so I pulled a plug and it smelled like fuel but was not realy wet and it looked pretty good. I had him crank and I got some nice spark. 3. So I then sprayed some starter fluid down the throttle body and then cranked away. I got nothing. 4. I then pulled the exhaust manifolds to see if the exhaust might be plugged. Still nothing. Tried again with starter fluid, and still nothing. So, since it would not fire up even with the starter fluid could this be an air supply issue? Is that possible for the TBI system to fail in a way as to not allow enough air into the system that it wont fire off even with starting fluid?

So my loyale quite on me this morning. I was cruising down the highway and it sputtered a couple times and then cut out. It cranks over just fine but wont start. The exhaust pops and sputters when cranked. I had limited tools on hand but did pull the fuel filter and blew thru it and it was clear. So I had it towed home. What should be the first things to check for in order? I dont have a helper availible right now so I have to troubleshoot myself. I was going to check the fuel system first. And my first thought is to just pull the hose off the TBI and stick it in a coffee can and crank it over to see if I get fuel, I know thats not the safest way but its old school and seams easier to me than running around with my meter. Plus I cannot listen under the car to hear the pump without someone turning the key for me. When she quite on me I heard the exhaust pop and sputter before I felt the motor jerk. I wonder if the exhaust system/muffler became plugged all the sudden. Not sure how I would go about testing that very easily? Other than pulling the rusted/seized connections apart after the cat. And as far as timing. If one of the timing belts failed, (probably not too likely since I replaced them 25K ago) would I still get spark? Or how would I go about checking if the timing belts were good without pulling the shrouds? Also how to check to make sure one side did not skipp?

I finally realized that. Yeah the coolant and the inside of my radiator look great. Car ran cool around town but started to heat up on freeway commutes. Pretty shocked how bad that radiator was. Thanks guy.

Hey guys. I replaced my radiator and was looking thru the repair manual and it mentioned a radiator ground strap. Well mine did not have one and I cannot tell where it should have been. Can one of you guys with a loyale tell me where it was mounted? My thermo switch has its own ground, not sure why the radiator whould need a ground? Best spot I can think of is off of the metal fan shroud and to the block. Wonder if having no ground excelerated this issue? Or maybee it was just age combined with the horrible de-icer the DOT uses on our roads.

Alright, I will get OEM head gaskets. Should I replace the head bolts? I see head bolts listed in some kits. Anyone know the cheapest price for OEM HD gaskets online?

Good points but I do need all of the gaskets listed as I am doing a reseal and I am trying to do it as cheap as possible for now, If I have to do it again in a year or so (if the car lasts that long) thats ok. I still would like to hear from someone who has used aftermarket headgaskets on thier 2.2. How did they hold up? Would you do it again? Why do people recommend the OEM gaskets? Are they made from differant material? Or differant prosses? Are they really that much better? I used to be all oem all the time but it just costs too much, times are tuff.

Its ends up being more than a 50% savings. I purchased aftermarket for my 1.8 EA82 and did a complete motor reseal and timeing, everything except head gaskets and I was impressed with the quality and have had no issues and no leaks. Just not sure about the headgaskets on the 2.2. Would like to hear from someone who has used aftermarket headgaskets on their 2.2EJ GD provided info in this thread about mizumoauto on ebay. Timing belt kit with waterpump $101.99 from mizumo. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Timing-Belt-Kit-Water-Pump-Subaru-EJ18-EJ25-90-Feb-97-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1990Q7cMakeQ3aSubaruQ7cModelQ3aLegacyQQhashZitem336319e45eQQitemZ220705973342QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Complete engine gasket set, head gaskets and head bolts is $86.39 from mizumo. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-98-2-2L-Subaru-Impreza-EJ22E-Head-Gasket-Set-Bolts-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cacea5fd8QQitemZ260599078872QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I think the dealer wants $100 for just the head gaskets. so it is considerably cheaper for aftermarket. I could reseal the entire engine and do the timing belts for $188. Plus coolant, thermostate, and new radiator cap.

I am finally getting around to starting the work to get the subaru going. I got a car and was told the headgaskets were blown and that it ran good but overheated. The car was from a friend. Thank you for all the info above. I need to get this car running to get it out of my driveway and parked at another spot. Here is my question. How important is it that I use OEM headgaskets? I was planning on going all aftermarket for parts becuase of price. The car has 160,000 miles on it. By going aftermarket I understand that the reliablility wont be there but I was wondering if the headgaskets are just junk or just not as good? Thanks.

Subaru Loyale. I need a complete passanger front marker light assembly and a complete front bumper with mounts and all. Something around puget sound Wa. Looking for both items in good undamaged new or used condition.

Oil pump gasket. I ordered it but forgot to add it on the list above. I may end up buying a OEM one if the aftermarket kit looks ************ty.

I just ordered the following. clutch disc pressure plate throw out bearing pilot bearing rear main seal (just in case oem is leaking) valve cover gasket set water pump and gasket intake and exhaust gaskets cam and crank seals oil pan gasket timing belts and tensioner and pullys. Planning on removing intake and maybee injectors and cleaning. could not find a local flywheel. Hope my original one is in good shape. I cant think of anything else. All parts are aftermarket and total cost is just over $500.

I have only had the car for a week. I added seafoam to the fuel tank because the car was owned by a elderly couple who did not drive it much. The axles have never been replaced. The car had all of its serviced done on scheduale and at the dealer. The knock sensor and crankshaft sensors where replaced at some point because of a check engine light. I plan on doing a full tune up. Oil + filter trans oil rear diff oil plugs and wires cap and rotor fuel filter air filter throttle body and idle speed valve cleaning. I was given a tourqe converter by a friend today. It is out of a 92 legacy wagon. At least I have a spare if I need it. I will do the tune up this weekend and udpdate.

I am pulling my engine this weekend to replace the clutch. The car is a 1990 loyale with a 5 speed. 1.8 motor. I am going to replace the flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing and needle bearing. Should I replace the main seal? I do not know if the timing belt has ever been replaced in the 140,000 miles the car has on it. Along with the clutch replacement what else should I do while the motor is out?

We purchased a 96 legacy L a week ago with 81,000 miles from the elderly original owners and all services up to date. The wagon starts up just fine and idles great and purrs in park or nuetral. But in reverse and very noticeably in drive at a stop light it idles very rough. It usually idles smooth at 700rpm but when idleing in drive it drops to around 500 and shakes fairly violently. Definantly not normal. I feels like it is in the automatic transmission, Maybee torque converter? Anyone have input on this. Also where is a good resource online for a subaru tourqe converter? I spent a couple hours searching this topic and looking for parts. No luck.

I called the subaru dealer and got a price for all the parts listed above. They wanted over $900 for everything listed above. I know that I need to use subaru oem head gaskets but what about the rest of the parts? can I use aftermarket for the rest of the gaskets and parts? Also where is a good site to order online?

Thanks again for the info, I will be picking the car up this next weekend. I will post pics and I am sure more questions then. Ted

Alright, thanks for the info guys. I am picking up the car next weekend and will update this thread as I get going. How about the tranny's? Are the legacy auto trannys built well? Is there anything I should to to it (other than fluid change) before I throw it back in the car?

Ok, so what else should I replace while I am tearing into it? Some people say to replace: Head gaskets. Timing belts and tensioner. Thermostate. Water pump. multiple gaskets. flush radiator. Does this list look right? is there anything else I should add? Show me the list you would make if you where tearing into a 2.2 motor with 170,000 miles on it. ALSO- what about the tranny? How do the automatic transmissions hold up? Is there any preventitive maintenance I can do to it or a service while its out of the car? Ted