Bill90Loyale

Thanks again John.

Thanks very much Olnick. While I think my bulbs may be burned out too (I just bought this 99 legacy sedan a couple days ago), my primary issue is that only a couple of the ventilation buttons work (down to the feet or defrost, but no bi-level or straight on blast). Is this definitely a broken solder issue or will I be able to correct this when I remove the control panel?

Thank you John - that's a great link and very helpful. If anyone could give me a "how to" on disconnecting the heater controls at the lower end, I'd appreciate it very much.

Hi Guys- Just bought a 99 Legacy sedan, 2.2L with non-functional ventilation. The blower works, but no real ventilation out the cabin vents and no real functionality at the buttons. Could someone walk me through the removal process or feed me a link to a good repair thread please? I'm a former Loyale owner (and got 277K out of it before rust did me in) so I'm fairly adept, but don't know the trick to avoid the nightmare removal scenario. Thanks in advance for any help. Bill

Got it GD. As you suggested, I found the motor at the base of the B pillar behind the big trim, disconnected BOTH connecters (disconnecting only one still allowed the latch to move back to the forward position) and shut the motor down. Cranked the latch manually to the rear, using the allen key crank, and now the driver's side belts can both be manually engaged and disengaged and we can pass the next inspection. Many many thanks. Bill

Thanks again. I'll pull some more trim and see what I find.

Thanks GD. Do you know where the motor for the driver's side retractor is located? There's an electrical connector under the trim at the device, which I disconnected thinking along the same lines you were, but the damned thing continues to automaically slide back to the forward position after I manually crank it to the rearward. So I haven't managed to disable the motor somehow. Hmmm....

Greetings Gentlemen- 90 Loyale, 260K going strong. But I'm stuck on a problem with the driver's side seatbelt retractor. The upper belt retractor stopped sliding back to the "belted" (driving) position. I used the allen wrench manual retractor located near the bottom of the B pillar, but the belt OPENS (in other words, it works) and slides the retractor back to the open position when the ignition is shut down. So I removed the trim and disconnected the electrical connector at the sliding latch device, thinking I could just disable it in the "driving" position (rearward), but it still automatically "opens" the sliding latch and sends it back to the "get out of the car" (forward) position when the ignition is shut down. I've done a search and haven't found a fix. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Your alternator has died. Stop driving your vehicle now, unless you want to purchase a new battery also. Have your alternator rebuilt (about $75 in my market) or buy a rebuilt.

Check for a vacuum leak at the big intake hose from air filter to carb.

+1. Spray the exterior of the elephant trunk (big rubber/plastic) hose from air cleaner to intake manifold with carb cleaner while engine is running. If revs increase or decrease, you've got a vacuum leak. No leak? Spray on smaller vacuum lines and vacuum connections. You might be fouled with carbon in the intake manifold too. I'd introduce about a half can of Seafoam into the intake manifold via the PCV valve or brake booster line to clear some carbon out.

Good question.

Paid $1500 for mine, too long ago to remember. Now it has 245,000 miles and the engine will go as long as the body holds out. I had the body repainted by the local Vo-Tech about 7 years ago. Money well spent. The cancer will kill this car before the engine keels over. Best car I've ever owned - and that includes a first year (1983) Toyota Camry. That's been my experience with my Loyale.

This conforms with my experience. In three timing belt rotations, I had two go the full 60K (as a matter of fact more like 70K) and one early failure (at 45K).

GD- I been on this board for awhile too. We have two Subies in the family. The wife's EJ22 (95 legacy) and my Loyale. I maintain 'em both. The EJ 22 is "superior" in all respects. I also paid 4 times less for the Loyale. The E82 is a simple workhorse and a loyal dog who will be happy to see you and never ****s on the carpet unless he's really really sick. I am over 50. Quit bashing E82's. Your fan, Bill

E82 bashing must come to a halt! This means YOU GD! Paid $1500, just rolled over 244K. Crappy underpowered ugly Loyales Rule!

Why was the engine "rebuilt"? My Loyale has 242K on it. No rebuild, no sign it needs one. (This is the "buying a lemon" question).

GD- You meant to say don't go to a 20w until or unless it's really HOT out right?

All this is just symptomatic of my 90 finally starting it's slow rust death spiral. I've hot oiled (coated it) a number of times over the years but you can stave off the cancer only so long. There's no doubt that the body will go before the fine little engine ever will. BTW, my annual bike ride out to MN takes me across the Shield - Ottawa, North Bay, Sudbury.

Fixed. My muffler shop drilled a hole in the spare parts compartment of the back of the wagon, mounted a new hangar bracket where there was still some good metal, and I'm back in business. Should get me and my 18 year old daughter to Pittsburgh to start college in a couple weeks. $20. Sure, coulda' made that repair myself after futzing around the hardware store for some...hardware...and crawling around underneath and lining stuff up and....but in this case, I'm glad I handed the job off. Thanks for everyone's input - including yours Ahole. :-)

Apology accepted. I couldn't agree with you more.

Struts and/or strut mounts shot? They'll clunk.

Ahole-When I first read this post, I was inclined to get pissed off. I got over that. I note that you're a youth of 31 with a few posts under your belt. I'm a 54 year old guy who has owned and maintained my 90 Loyale for years. My wife's 95 is doing well too. Combined mileage of about 400K at this point. Did I mention my 33 year old motorcycle that I just returned from a 3K mile ride on? I think you're encouraging me to do my own work. Thanks for the advice, but take a deep breath before you post next time. There are a few things I don't mess with - welding and exhaust work are on that list.

Gentlemen- Many thanks for your input. At this point, I plan to take the car to my exhaust specialist (an independent one-man, not Midas for gosh sakes) and see if he can weld up a new hanger or drill for a new strap as Reveeen suggests. I'll post the end result.