ThosL

I've been there. I had a water pump fail and drove up to their Waterbury shop for the job. Some shops call in guys who are more or less retired for occasional jobs.

Real estate has been a million an acre for a while; why LeBlancs sold out even with all the toxic chemicals from many decades of activity on the property. LaJoies will not sell exhaust parts claiming that they rot from the inside out. I agree that F and S is the area expert on Subarus, I've driven up to Waterbury for a specialist to install a water pump on a prior vehicle.

It's been off. Replacing the solenoid is a little difficult if you don't have a lift. I had snagged one off a junkyard Subaru, it worked for a little while then probably shorted out. It's just not worth trying junkyard parts unless they've been checked. I got an ignition coil off a junkyard vehicle a while ago and it was worse than useless.

I think so; under threshold.

From what I'd heard, the evap. canister does not affect performance. However, I replaced it on my 2002 Forester as I've been living with the codes for a long time, but needed to pass emissions here in CT. Now both the evap. canister code and the catalytic converter code are off. Are these affecting each other? I fixed one and both codes came off. I got it on Amazon for around $30.

For my older Subaru, a 2.5 engine was available locally for under $500; mechanic said he'd install it for less than that too, so under a grand all in.

Is it hard to polish up the headlight lens so it "sees" through better? Mine is pretty dim. Also the radio antenna has been out, I'll search online for solutions.

Are these "Densos" any good? The printing says they're made in the US: https://www.amazon.com/Denso-IK20-Iridium-Power-Spark/dp/B000M6UR82/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

Plug failure within a year caused me unending problems which caused me to change out everything else that I thought could be the cause of sputtering and misfiring. I didn't realize it could be the NGK plugs I put in. Forester is running as well as ever; I put on a couple Cooper tires yesterday that I got from the local junkyard for $50 on the rim each nicely mounted and balanced already.

I'd have to check my order, probably Amazon. I know Home Depot got in trouble as they played games with customers selling DeWalt and other name brand equipment that were either seconds or knock offs.

I put in the recommended NGK plugs a year and a half ago or so; already worn out after 25K miles or less. I kept the Denso Iridiums I had before and the misfiring and sputtering stopped. Forester is running well now.

Glad your fans finally kicked in; our unsung heroes to keep engines within acceptable temp. range. Of course there are short term fixes when the engine is getting too hot such as having the heater on full blast, anti-freezes and mixes with different properties, etc..

Of course, anything mechanical needs to be addressed, however "Lucas" transmission treatment is quite good. Check the fluid, etc.. I did a change and filter replacement last year.

I had the rest of it welded, cost $300 more. It was starting to sag.

It's burning, most likely the part of the engine that is hard to reach.

I spoke to him today: I checked it out, it just needs a radiator and condenser and some front trim parts. "my 2013 Impreza with 185,000 miles. Please let me know if you are interested or what next steps we need to do to see if you are interested. I'll probably start calling junkyards tomorrow but I wanted to check with you first. It doesn't hold fluids – – but after checking on the Internet and seeing testimonials – – I was able to drive it home 6 miles by coasting downhill whenever possible. I'll wait to hear from you." 2013 Impreza 185,000 miles. orinal airbags catalytic converter that passed CT Emissions remote start alloy wheels 4 good tires, donut spare clean interior except tear on edge of driver seat.

I will; he works as a school bus driver so does not have a lot of money to spend on a new car, and as others have said, you can repair the car so it passes all the inspections. If the front end, ie tie rod ends, cv joints etc are not damaged then I'm sure it will be ok. 15 years ago I was hit by another car and after repair it had to go through the inspection upstate.

My 2.5 with 273K miles has been burning oil, I was told upping the thickness would be good, so have been adding Mobil 1 15w-50, synthetic. Someone said that conventional oil may be preferable on high mileage cars. Another piece of advice was to use Rotella 20w 50. Anyone have an objective analysis on the right oil to use?

A friend had the same problem, thought his Subaru Impreza would not pass CT inspection after replacing radiator and compressor. I offered to buy it from him.

I'll second that great saying, a late friend was fond of saying.

I got the spacer online and drilled it out with a drill I picked up at Lowe's, a pita but helped. Thanks for the recommendation it should help others.

This driver's side rear strut had broken off due to rust; I had it welded yesterday, could go back to have more done. https://imgur.com/a/safjv8T

I saw this old thread; my left rear is sagging somewhat due to rust. A local guy said he could weld up the strut tower well without removing the strut for $175 for one unit. Is this possible? I saw this Youtube video which shows a rigorous strip down before welding:

It seemed to help. At first the CEL was flashing; next trip none of that and runs better without sputtering.

The question then is in a working catalytic converter, where does the high oil content exhaust go? The metals turn it into harmless emissions? I'm drilling out the aluminum oxygen sensor extender with a Bosch carbide, diamond tip bit, not easy.