99obw

I prefer Bosch or Lexor.

Could be a coolant temp sensor. In cold conditions the car won't start because the ECU isn't supplying enough fuel. If you crank long enough eventually the fuel will build up and the car will start, but it won't run well until it is warmed up.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7847

That wouldn't cause the car to not turn over, which is the behaviour described. FWIW, I prefer isopropyl dry gas over the methanol kind. I add a bottle about every two weeks during the winter.

Ts_johnson has no reason to think that a tune up is needed until the mileage is properly checked over several tanks of gas.

It seems your problems started when the battery was changed. I would start the car and gently wiggle the battery cables and all of the related wires that connect to the battery terminals. I would also gently wiggle the wires going into the fuse box to the rear of the battery.

You really can't measure mileage by the tank. Use the odometer instead. IIRC when our car was new nearly empty would take about 13 gallons to fill, now it takes about 9-10. The sending unit seems to be getting tired. We are currently getting about 23.5-24 MPG with about 10 minutes of morning idling and mixed driving.

I would leave them until 105k.

I would look at http://www.1stsubaruparts.com. I think they are about $90 there, list for about $120. I have one new OEM rear strut that I would let go for about half of that ($45) if you are interested. I can't remember what side it is for. I bought two for the same side on ebay and bought the other one from 1stsubaruparts. A lot of people on here talk about ordering struts from other places online. Someone will certainly chime in.

That statement is inconsistent with what Skip and I found with our cars. If the valve seat wear and stem strech is more than the shim and cam wear, the valves will get tighter. Mine were consistently tighter.

I hope the grill area doesn't look like that, because I want to buy one of these things when it comes out.

The engine will probably run fine right up to the point where the valves burn. This is definately a preventative maintanence item.

O2 sensors are usually in need of replacement long before a code is set, so yes, replace it.

Google "dex cool" and you will find a bunch of class action lawsuit and complaint web sites. I am glad you folks aren't having any troubles with it. A guy at work is currently having his intake gaskets and head gaskets changed thanks to dex cool. Another guy just lost a heater core. Both gm vehicles with dex cool. Not in my cars.

The long life stuff is orange, Dex-cool, AKA death-cool. Use only the green in the subes and change it every 30k and you probably won't have any problems. The dealer is correct AFAIK about the Phase II head gasket failures.

Really, does it work better?

Yep, I am very fond of coating things with neversieze when I put them back together. It's the stuff I haven't had apart that gives me trouble.

rallynutdon, You have a PM. Ali, I see. Maybe they should put a cover on the lateral link bolt!

I doubt turning off the heat while driving will cause the fans to turn on, too much air blowing across the radiator.

The coolant needs to be pretty darn warm to turn the fans on. Let the engine idle for a while with the heat off. The fans should turn on. Keep an close eye on the temp in case they don't work.

That makes sense, one of the links has a big black plastic thing on it that looks like an adjuster.

If a dealer is quoting you $500 for an O2 sensor find another dealer. Maximum I think a dealer should charge would be $200. The part lists for $120.00 and it should take no longer than 1 hour. I changed the front O2 sensor in our '99 for about $50. It's very easy to do. I would replace the plugs and air filter with OEM parts and go from there.

Nice looking wheels! Great deal. I actually had the opportunity to kick the outback sideways on my road a couple of times this weekend. I was by myself and nobody was on the road. The rear kicking out is such a breath of fresh air after driving so much FWD lately. The acceleration even when sideways is amazing. WooooHooooo!

I think I can answer my own question. I think between my hub tamer and ball joint press I should be able to figure something out without removing the link.

Replacing the rear main seal requires the removal of the engine or transmission, so doing that when the clutch is done makes the most sense. When this belt is done that area of the engine shouldn't need attention until 210k. I personally wouldn't trust any seals for that long if I had the opportunity to replace them relatively inexpensively while in the area.