99obw

I installed the filter inline with the BPT tonight. I removed the vacuum line that goes from the "V" vacuum port on top of the throttle body to the "R" port on the BPT. I cut this line in two, removed and discarded about a 1/4" length of the line, and added the filter in the middle. This should produce the desired effect of somewhat protecting the BPT, solenoid, and EGR from moisture.

I did not run our car for long with the blown gaskets. I took it to work once after the catastrophic failure (got very hot, lost most of the coolant) on the interstate and parked it after a very painful commute. I never allowed it to get hot that day, and I stopped 7 or 8 times in 100 miles to add coolant and burp the system. I never removed the thermostat. Removing the thermostat is a necessity if you are going to drive it much. If you run without a thermostat for any length of time, the oil should be changed more often because it isn't reaching the temperature necessary to boil off fuel and water contaminants. Engine wear is going to be increased because oil is designed to run at operating temp. On most of the Phase I's the gaskets failed because of the gasket, not because the head was warped. Some have said that some of the blocks are flawed but at that point one might as well buy a rebuilt engine. On some engine designs if the head gasket blows, it's almost guaranteed that the head is warped. I generally don't think the heads need to be milled if they measure as straight. The definition of straight depends on the engine. For the Phase I EJ25 straight enough is 0.002" (according to Haynes). If they are relatively straight the only benefit to milling the head is the uniform surface of fresh metal that is revealed. Measuring the straightness of the head is not DIY for most people. When I did our head gaskets my father-in-law measured them for straightness for me at the machine shop he works at. He determined by using a granite block and pieces of shim stock that the head was straight to within 0.001". I don't remember exactly how it is done, something about setting the head on the shim stock and pulling out the shims one at a time. I did not have them milled. He did use some sort of perfectly straight abrasive surface to put some cool swirly marks on the face of the heads, so perhaps that could be done to straight heads instead of milling (saving $$$) to reveal some fresh metal. Milling is relatively inexpensive, and it won't hurt anything if you have it done and it isn't needed, provided it is done right.

The operation of the cat is verified by the rear O2 sensor, so if that sensor fails the code for the cat could be triggered. I would start with the O2 sensor, it's much cheaper.

Got my shirt today. It is awesome!!! I am only sorry that I didn't order more shirts! Thanks!!

Do you mean a hub tamer? It's a tool set used to press the bearings in and out without removing the knuckle. AFAIK this (OTC 6298 Front Hub Installer & Puller Set) contains the proper tools for removing stuck axles. Your wheel puller may work just as well.

The front sensor is a three wire, the rear sensor is a four wire. You probably only need to replace the front sensor. That site has good prices. I have been pleased with the O2 sensors I purchased from them.

To protect the studs and the threads on the axle I would recommend using a length of 2x4 on edge. Have another person hold it against the axle and try and hit it in such a way as to not make the 2x4 go flying. It's a bit tricky so be careful.

Unless you plan on replacing the bearings and seals I would be very careful with the application of heat. PB blaster works very well, but not instantly. I have had the best results on extremely rusty parts by spraying several times a day over several days. If it is visibly rusty where the axle protrudes from the hub use a wire brush to clean the rust off so the PB can get in there. Then alternate hitting with a hammer and pressing with a puller. Sometimes an air hammer will do the trick when the BFH fails. My BFH weighs 10lbs BTW. Be careful that you don't damage the axle.

No, that sounds like an unusual problem. It sounds to me like the stainless steel pad guides or shims might be missing. That might allow the pads to move around enough to make an audible noise. I have a 99 outback and the pads fit very tightly in the pad guide bracket thingy (technical terminology) with the stainless guides and shims installed. The car emits no audible brake noise, period. If someone at some point used non OEM parts then the stainless guides or shims might be missing, as they don't come with most if not all aftermarket brakes. OEM is the only way to go IMHO.

Some are, some aren't. Timing belt failure is never a good thing. Agreed. It's even less work to replace the water pump the first time.

The failure rate of most components follows a normal distribution or "bell curve". You must ask yourself where on this curve you want to be. I am going to make up some numbers for the sake of illustration. If the average water pump lasts 200k miles, but 20% of them fail by 150k miles, when do you want to replace yours? I think I would still want to replace the water pump near 100k miles because spending $100 to prevent a 20% chance of a $2500 repair(timing belt failure) or a $500 repair(timing belt and water pump replacement) is at worst a break even strategy. I don't have any statistical data, but I feel confident that replacing the water pump at 105k or 120k miles is a good investment because I think I am being very generous by suggesting that the average water pump lasts for 200k miles. This is not a component one wants to extract every last mile from. I personally want to keep the probability of water pump failure on this type of engine as low as possible, and the only way to do that is proper maintanence and periodic replacement.

Whoa, that was a close one. I thought for a minute we were going to have to stage an intervention.

I would install an idle solenoid from an old air conditioned carbureted car. My '71 cadillac had a whopper of a solenoid on the carb. It may take a little fabricating to get the plunger to press on the throttle. Interlock the switch with park or neutral. Voila, high idle controller. Very simple, easy to remove, and reliable. It also won't interfere in any way with the IAC or computer.

Fora by nature are a mixture of opinion, experience, fact, and fiction. They should all be taken FWIW, always. BITOG has a lot of scientific information(generally considered facts), but one needs to wade through the muck(opinion and fiction), and hopefully learn a little from the experience of others. That is my MO on all fora.

I think it is very important. I have had water pumps last longer, but more often I have them fail in the 120k - 140k range. I am firmly in the preemptive water pump replacement camp. Do you have a 2.2? How many miles at your last timing belt job?

I managed to find the specs after a little digging at the Valvoline site. 5w-30 Synpower cSt @ 100º C = 10.84 TBN = 9 NOACK volatility = 11% A little thicker than Mobil 1(10), a little thinner than Amsoil(11.7). The TBN of 9 is a little low, with Mobil 1 and Amsoil in the 11-12 range. Amsoil's study of 10w-30 shows synpower at 11.38 and amsoil at 12.34. This oil may be a candidate for extended drains, but only analysis would show for certain. With Amsoil at 6.9%, 11% seems high for NOACK volatility. I would expect increased oil consumption over Amsoil with the synpower. I have read that the synpower is a group III, with Amsoil ASL and Mobil 1 SS being group IV. It looks like a decent oil, but I am not running out to drain my cars and put it in. I am no oil expert, if you really want to know go over to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and ask the people who know.

On our car the 75w-90 gear lube from the front differential leaking onto the exhaust generates a similar odor. You might take a look around where the front inner CV joints meet the transmission (diff case).

I don't know how long it takes for the lettering to wear off of a timing belt, but it sounds like a poor way to determine change intervals. FWIW the lettering wears off of my serpentine belt on my dodge in about 10k miles, but that is totally uncovered.

I would start by getting a second opinion. The tie rod ends or ball joints failing is more common in my experience. Unless you are a competent mechanic I would recommend that you let someone else replace it if it is indeed needed. I might have someone do it for me if it was my car, and I do virtually everything myself. The rack might be the one thing that I would have a shop do for me, but I don't know for sure as I have never had one fail. I would only use OEM parts.

FWIW the timing belt on our 2.5l Phase I looked BRAND NEW when I changed it at 100k miles, but it was only 3.5 years old at that point. The 2.2 is a 60k interval, so either it is way overdue or not due yet, depending on whether or not they did it at 60k. I think it may be hard to tell whether the belt is 107k old or 47k old.

I would almost guarantee that the subaru tech removes the fans when doing a timing belt. It only takes a couple of minutes and it frees up a lot of space. I agree with Skip that removing the radiator is unnecessary and it is unlikely that they did. The overheating does seem a little suspicious to me.

When you do the cam seals, the cam sprockets on the 2.2 are a PITA without the correct tool. It can be done with a chain wrench and a piece of old timing belt, but be very careful not to break the rear timing covers. You can probably build a tool. Make sure you properly torque the crank pulley bolt with some blue (medium) loctite when you put it back together.

I have used permatex anerobic gasket maker with excellent results. I have also used the permatex ultra-black with equally good results. I have been too cheap to pay $10 a tube for the ultra-grey, since ultra-black has always performed flawlessly for me. YMMV AFAIK ultra-grey is not anerobic. Three bond 1280B is available under Subaru# S0A5499100. AKAIK this is used for the H6 camcase. Three bond 1215 is available under Subaru# SOA635019. I think this is used everywhere else three bond is called for.

What year, what engine, how many miles, auto or manual?

If there are shims, put it between the pad and the shims, between the shims if there is more than one, and on the outside of the shim(s). If there aren't shims put it on the back side of the pad. I would clean off the pad face and rotor with brake cleaner when you put it back together just to be sure it is clean. Some of the anti-squeal stuff actually dries to a certain extent, the other stuff I have used is basically grease or similar.