99obw

The problem with removing one ciruit at a time is that you may remove a circuit that is perfectly fine but is causing the current draw to be beyond what the fuse can handle, then the fuse will stop blowing but the problem still exists. An inconclusive experiment. That is why I recommend actually measuring the current into each circuit.

Oops, yes you did, I missed that. That is pretty low mileage! Poly Alpha Olefin, aka group IV synthetic. Common examples are Mobil 1 or Amsoil. A lot of the over the counter synthetics are group III. Group III's are great oils but don't deserve the synthetic label IMHO. For example Castrol Syntec used to be a group IV, they switched to a group III (cheaper base stock) and kept the synthetic label. I use Pennzoil and Amsoil, depending on how much oil the engine uses.

Synthetics clean better, so the accumulated junk in your engine is going to be cleaned out by the oil and the oil will get dirty fast. For quite a while the synthetic oil should probably be changed at conventional oil intervals, unless you first use a cleaner. You don't mention how many miles are on your car. It is possible that the syntetic may cause your seals to leak. This is an area of considerable controversy and I really don't know. The seals need to be changed periodically anyway, so I wouldn't let that keep me from using a synthetic. I am a big fan of synthetics. If your car doesn't use much oil I would be tempted to use a PAO synthetic in it.

Using a relay is nice because you can make sure everything gets turned off when the ignition is off, if that is what you want. I typically run a wire from an ignition switched power source to the switch, then from the switch to one of the coil terminals on the relay, then from the other coil terminal on the relay to ground.

Cool. I'm jealous. That's what I wish I did for a living. I have been playing guitar and bass for 16 years but have yet to do anything substantial. Lately most of my focus (no focus really) has been on classical guitar. My brother is seriously into vintage amps and gear and might know who you are. I am an electrical engineer, but I work on telecom stuff. I did work on the automotive stuff for a couple of years in college for Motorola. I did mostly comms stuff like CAN, UART, and J1850 VPW. I would really like to tinker with the electronics aspect of the cars more, but my responsibilities keep me pretty busy most of the year. Blitz, it might be fun to colaborate on a music or automotive electronics project. My forte is mostly digital so if you wanted to put a microprocessor or DSP on something I'm your man. My brother and I have been kicking some ideas around for a while. Fun stuff.

It sounds to me as if your problem is NOT intermittent. I think that whatever short you have is always drawing too much current when the fuse is still intact. IIRC a typical slow-blow type fuse can take up to two hours to blow at it's rated current. It sounds like you know this but do not install a larger ampacity fuse. The easiest way to find the short is to divide and conquer. With the car's electrical diagram, find the circuits fed by the fuse that is blowing. Measure the current to each of the feeds at the fuseblock using a clamp-on ammeter capable of measuring DC. That should tell you where the problem lies. Then it's just a matter of working through the wiring diagram until the short or offending device is found. I hate to make it sound easy, but it really shouldn't be that hard. Many mechanics don't have any solid troubleshooting skills. They are simply parts changers. Maybe a good independent mechanic in your area could fix it if he had the wiring diagrams. Perhaps you could download the FSM from techinfo.subaru.com and supply it to the independent mechanic of your choice.

You are correct.

Based on your data my guess is that the IAT sensor is an NTC thermistor. The resistance measurement can be converted to temperature in the ECU using one of several techniques.

I think the thing you have labeled IAT is a ground, and the thing you have labeled knock sensor is the oil pressure sensor.

From the FSM: "A: REMOVAL 1. FRONT DRIVE SHAFT 1) Disconnect ground cable from battery. 2) Jack-up vehicle, support it with safety stands (rigid racks), and remove front wheel cap and wheels. 3) Unlock axle nut. 4) While depressing brake pedal, remove axle nut using a socket wrench. CAUTION: Be sure to loosen and retighten axle nut after removing wheel from vehicle. Failure to follow this rule may damage wheel bearings. 5) Disconnect stabilizer link from transverse link. 6) Disconnect transverse link from housing. 7) Remove spring pin which secures transmission spindle to DOJ/SFJ. CAUTION: Use a new spring pin." I can't find anything about not using an impact wrench, but they do specifically recommend using a "socket wrench". Good to know. I must have been thinking of the rear axles regarding the special tool.

Electical assemblies aren't washed as much as they used to be. Environmental regulations have encouraged manufacturers to move to no-clean flux. The company I work for used to wash boards in freon, now nothing is washed. Contrary to popular belief water does not conduct electricity. The minerals in the water conduct electricity. Washing with deionized water could be very effective if the unit was never powered up with the contaminates on the PCB. If the soda was spilt on the unit with the car's battery connected it is possible that temporary shorts were created that permanently damaged the solid state circuitry. No amount of washing will help if this was the case. Washing with tap water will leave minerals on the PCB that will lower the impedance between component pins/pads on the board. This may or may not have significant effects depending on the impedance of the circuits involved and the water used. Yes, the cupholder design stinks.

Thanks for the report. An impact wrench makes getting the axle nuts off easier. I don't have one either so I feel your pain. I am considering doing the front bearings when I do the struts this summer. The struts and strut mounts are getting very tired. I will definately do the front diff seals, they are leaking a bit. Maybe I will wait on the front bearings until the axles need to be replaced. Did you need a special tool to get the DOJs out of the diff? Good work, glad things went relatively smoothly.

You are a: 2004 Forester 2.5xs! Why not an XT?!

I get most of my parts from http://www.1stsubaruparts.com. They seem to have the best prices and great service. Try http://www.libertysubaru.com if you are looking for a part number. Their site actually gives subaru part numbers and then you can take that part number and find the best price.

More oil is a double edged sword. If you are running a cooler, then more oil shouldn't lower the oil temp much as the cooler is hopefully thermostatically controlled and doing it's job. More oil takes longer to heat up, so engine wear will be slightly increased until the oil reaches operating temp. More oil will lower the stress on the oil, but if you are running reasonable oil change intervals that probably won't matter much. More oil costs more. IMHO your setup is probably adequate as is. Your engine would probably benefit more long term from using a good group IV or V synthetic and a bypass filter.

I have seen tire balance and driveshaft balance problems be speed dependent. If you want to test the Texan's idea use a hose clamp.

Probably the easiest way to add oil capacity is to add a remote filter. This also allows the use of a much bigger or even dual filters, which can add a lot of capacity as well.

When I did this the ECM set a code, so keep in mind that the MIL may come on. It should go away by itself after a while. EDIT: That was on a 99. I don't know what to expect with your 91. Just a heads up.

Maybe a little more info would help. DTC = diagnostic trouble code ( i.e. P0400, my favorite) MIL = malfunction indicator lamp (check engine light) "Before OBDII can begin to work the vehicle must meet the “Enabling Criteria”. This is the vehicle operating condition that must exist for the Engine Control Module (ECM) to begin diagnostics. “Enabling Criteria” will not be the same for all diagnostics. For example; the ECM checks an EGR solenoid as soon as the ignition is turned on."

From Subaru document: On Board Diagnostics-II (OBD II) Module 407 "DTC Memory Memory of a DTC (as it relates to illuminating the MIL) is maintained until 3 consecutive passing trips have been made. (The Enabling Criteria was reached 3 times in a row and the tests were performed with good results). The MIL will turn off at this point. The DTC will remain available for viewing with the select monitor and the freeze frame information associated with it for 40 warm up cycles. The exception to this rule is if the code is associated to misfire or fuel trim which will require 80 warm up cycles for full erasure."

MY '96 vehicles use OBDII, so you will need an OBDII code reader to read and clear the codes.

Your engine would be the same as the description of the Phase I, as something is entering the coolant. I have heard that the 2.2 is slightly proned to plugged oil passages. Perhaps a plugged oil passage contributed to a head gasket failure near the passage.

In my experience the vinyl gloves are more durable than the nitrile. YMMV

I only use gloves when I have a cut on my hand(s) or I am using nasty chemicles. I prefer the vinyl gloves.

My stepdad is doing a frame up restoration on a '73 Buick Riviera. He has had three of them over the years, and the latest one he bought came from CA. The original brake lines are still silver!