99obw

Testing the coolant for combustion gasses is the most conclusive method on the Phase I 2.5l. A leakdown or pressure test probably won't find the failed gasket. The engine usually has to be pushed pretty hard to cause it to leak. I would baby the car until the oil level is corrected, so do this test after it's fixed. Make sure the cooling system is full and all of the air is bled out. Warm the engine up, then drive it really hard for about 5 miles. Before it cools back down open the hood, open the overflow bottle, and look in the overflow while revving the engine with the throttle body. If you see bubbles and smell exhaust then a coolant test is unnecessary.

Taking a sample of the oil and having it analyzed might prove interesting.

That is a lot of extra oil, it sounds like enough to cause problems. Either someone has an oil adding compulsion of something goofy is going on with your engine. Did you have your oil changed at a quick lube place? I would drain and replace the oil ASAP. Have the engine looked over ASAP by a good mechanic. You might want to have the coolant tested for exhaust.

The pour point of 10w-40 quaker state is -22*F. I would get that out of there and put some 5w-30 in. I am running 5w-30 amsoil in the suby and 5w-30 pennzoil in the dodge. No starting troubles down to -16*F so far this winter. If I consistently saw temps below -20*F I would be using 0w-30 in the winter.

Wow, those things sit on the truck for a long time, don't they!

A new car is not in our short term plans, so I am dreaming about an '06 outback turbo 2.5 or a 3.0. My wife wants a minivan. If they introduce the seven passenger Subaru that may be an option.

I have been a AAA member only a few years and they saved my butt on a 5*F day when the head gaskets went on the outback and my daughter and wife were in the car stranded on the freeway 10 miles from the nearest town. They even knew to send a slider bed to carry the sick AWD car.

MY 2004, curb weight, 200 lb driver, based on http://www.subaru.com STi: 11.54 lb/HP WRX sedan: 14.47 lb/HP 2.5l Forester XT: 16.23 lb/HP 2.5l Legacy Outback: 22 lb/HP That thing should be peppy. Any plans for engine mods?

How much is it going to weigh? lb/HP?

The Harbor Freight o-rings are nitrile, while the A/C ones seem to be green HNBR, whatever that is.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net has some o-ring kits. http://www.acsource.com has some too. I bought a $9.99 o-ring kit from Harbor Freight, but I certainly won't be using any of those on an A/C system. I can't decide if I should buy the specific ones for the vehicles and just change them all, or buy an assorment that would cover both vehicles. I am preparing to do flush, oil, replace receiver/dryer, vacuum, and charge on both of our cars, so this is some good reading.

To me it depends on the timing belt interval for your car. If it is 105k like our outback, I would change the water pump. If the interval was say 60k on the timing belt, I would change the pump at 120k. Like Carl said, idlers do tend to "dry out". I would also consider; thermostat and gasket, cam seals, main seal, oil pump o-ring, loctite back cover and reseal oil pump, accessory belts, dipstick tube o-ring, maybe valve cover gaskets, oil filler o-ring, and bolt seals.

I have confirmation from my friend that the 26239AA010 has a 10mm hex on it. I am going to order them next time I order parts. I will post when I get them.

Good work! What is the lb/HP going to be?

In my opinion your biggest risk is running the engine low on coolant and overheating and damaging the engine. Keep the radiator bled of air and keep the overflow bottle at the max line. Always keep an extra close eye on the temp gauge and fix it as soon as you can.

Use the search feature. There have been several threads on this topic.

Super-Tech filters are made by Champion Labs. Good filter for the $.

I had the same problem and used some penetrating oil to free it up and then white lithium spray. It has worked ever since.

http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7590&

99 legacy outback auto Part number for the rear brake caliper bleeder screw? I have talked to two dealers and they both insist that the screws are 26238AE000. That is the correct number for the front calipers. The front screws have an 8mm hex on them, the rear screws have a 10mm hex on them. Thanks!

I have been getting about 24 mpg mixed driving with about 10 minutes of morning idling. 99 obw 2.5l auto 145,438 miles.

The oxygen sensor is probably tired. I replaced ours and saw mileage go up about 8%. A very easy DIY job. Idling reduces mileage probably about 2mpg for me. Winter gas also reduces mileage.

I think that the chain wrench works well for the crank pulley if precautions are taken to prevent damage to the pulley. On the 2.2 the special tool is a very good thing to have, but the chain wrench can be made to work. A friend of mine tried to fabricate the 2.2 cam tool out of wood and bolts and failed miserably. If he would have built it more ruggedly (hardwood and bigger bolts) it would have worked. We used a chain wrench instead. The only place that I know of to get the cam pulley tool is from Subaru. Fabricating one should be pretty easy.

I bought the 26238AE000 for $2.46 each. My friend's legacy wagon calls for 26239AA010 in the rear (drums). They are $8.72 each!!! I wonder if they will fit. On a side note, does anyone know what comes in the caliper rebuild kits from Subaru? If those kits have the bleeders then I will just buy those. The calipers are getting tired, and they are about $150 each.

Since the 98 and 99 cars are virtually identicle, the manual you speak of does actually cover the 99. The outback changed in 2000. I have both the online FSM and the Haynes. They both come in handy.