Delta Brat

Many times I have found that if you don't lube on (I use marine grease but any good quality grease works well) the place where the throw out bearing slides back and fourth on.... the amount of force required to push the pedal down is tremendously increased. I have seen firewalls torn up, clutch cables worn out, clutch cables snapped, and pedal assembly's broken. Not to mention all kinds of hydraulic problems with hydraulic systems. Many poor repair shops forget to lube this spot any many customers complain of hard clutch pedal. Shops usually shrug this off and tell the customers that it's a higher duty clutch. The auto repair world is full of dishonest individuals. But that is a topic for other discussions.

Hello I recently bought an 82 GL Brat 1.8 liter 4 speed. White exterior and blue interior. When I bought it it had a frozen motor and had been sitting in a field for 5 years. It has a decent amount of rust under the rockers and the whole battery tray area is rusted out. It came with a good running engine in the bed. Well the carb needed a lot of work and the engine I put in seems fine. Good compression in all 4 cylinders. The previous owner bought it and it was too much work for him. So I bought it from him with the good engine. I paid $600.00 for it. The brakes were toast and I got a rotor at the wrecking yard and the rear drums were frozen and I finally got those off the vehicle. The rear brakes needed cleaning and lubing only. The fronts needed 1 replacement rotor, both rotors turned, and all new pads. I put in a new clutch and new seals and gaskets while the engine was out. Thing is it doesn't really run good and the block is out of an 80 or 81 wagon and doesn't have the air valve provisions. So I cannot really hook up all the emissions. I'm getting a bit burned out on the car right now and need a break from working on it all the time. I should have just done what I wanted from the beginning. I have now bought a turbo wagon and want to do the turbo conversion and the 4 wheel disk brake conversion. I also want to do the 5 speed conversion. The turbo wagon comes with a electric push button 4 wheel drive 5 speed, But I really want a dual range 4wd 5 speed with 2wd. I have never seen one of those but heard they exist. Anybody got some free time and looking to get some good parts in exchange for doing the labor for me?

Here is how my dad did it. My dad told each of us kids we had to buy our own car. We had to pay to have or repair our own cars. In order for him to allow us to drive we had to qualify for a good student discount on our car insurance. See my dad had to prove to the state he was giving his permission that his minor children were allowed to drive (i'm not sure if it's still that way now). My dad paid for the insurance and all we had to do was have 3.0 or better grades for the insurance discount. No 3.0 gpa then no permission to drive. It was that simple. It was hard to be cool in high school without a car. No dates. No independance, nada. It was huge to have a car and a license. I had to have a job so I could pay for gas and I had to get the grades too. I gotta hand it to dad he was a smart one on that deal. Here's how he dealt with the car before a license. We had a learners permit and he was required to be with us as we were learning. We had to complete drivers ed in school and he would practice parallel parking and backing around a corner. He gave advice like when backing out of a parking stall only to back up enough to pull forward in one motion to clear the car next to you. He explained how backing up your vision is not as good a range as when your facing forward and driving forward. by limiting your amount of backward motion you limit the unseen and distance traveled unecessarily.

That post was only an overview of sorts. There are many ignition systems and starting systems out there and by no means did I cover hardly any of them. Keep in mind the free things are always a good place to start. Clean your cables and connections. Then check for voltages at the coil. If you have 12 volts at the coil then I would look at how much is it supposed to have? Is your ignition switch still supplying 12 volts and causing the coil to burn up? Thats where I would start.

Doesn't Vr = Voltage Regulator? Whether you have a internal or external voltage regulator it's tied to the alternator and battery. That being said .... To start a car when the engine is cold most cars need more voltage at the coil than when a car is already running. Many cars 1950's and older used 6 volt starting systems and generators not alternators. Compression was low like 6 to 1 or less and the number of cylinders was 4 or 6. Even gasoline was crappy back then having real low octane ratings. These cars could be very hard to start on cold mornings if your battery wasn't in real good shape. This is why ether was used to start cars. It was then realized if they went to 12 volt batteries the engines turned over faster and more voltage was available for the ignition system. Hence the car started real quick every time. Problem was the points were burning up. So auto engineers used a ballast resistor to limit/reduce the voltage to the points and coil to 6 volts. There was an additional wire directly from the ignition switch that allowed 12 volts just for starting not running. This allowed the coil to run cooler and points to not burn up so fast. Some ballast resistors limited voltage to 8 volts and some to 6 volts. That was the purpose for a ballast resistor. Most cars now days used a resistor wire with a bypass wire for starting only. I hope this helps with understanding old systems a bit.

Yes they are cool! I am looking for a working timer that mounts on the right strut tower. The timer enables voltage for a small amount of time to open and close the electric door that covers the center light. The door has to be fully open for the light to come on via an limit switch. This keeps heat from the light from melting or discoloring the cover.

I too have ordered from Jason. He can get parts that aren't even in the system anymore. They have the old parts books that most dealerships have thrown out and therefore can look stuff up and then do a part number search across all the dealerships in the country. Even if the factory parts houses don't have the parts he still finds em. Jason is a gold mine in the Subaru Corporation!!!