glkiller2

hmm well I've been pretty good natured about all this but it seems whenever I post, no matter how humble I am I'm just talking myself into a dunce cap. I think I'll shut up now. Thanks to all of those who've helped...

I do... but when I'm ready to swap for an all new baby I don't want to have to put the THEN old lifters in my new baby. The old block could send a sludge chunk in them and then I'm out.

here's what he said: I can get you a low mileage JDM 2.0 Engine w/ less than 40k on it for +-$800 shipped. That would come with a 6 mo/6k warranty on the engine. It is a direct drop in into your year legacy, with nearly the same power, better mpg, and the same reliability the 2.2 has. I can find used US engines too, but typically they have way in excess of 150k miles and are usually questionable. I may be able to find a JDM 2.2, but they are getting very hard to come by.. If ordered today or tomorrow, we'd see it by the end of the week. Doesn't sound like a bad deal for sticking a middle man with the chore, but I like my 2.2. I'll keep lookin.

lol so yeah I got those so I could switch out fast ( thought I was cool lol), it took napa OVER a MONTH to get them done up (timing still woulda worked, so if I DID use heads I WAS COOL:), they are complete. The plan now is to fix the current issue, Lifters, and keep my eyes open for a younger block to put heads on for a swapout. The current engine runs fairly solid, no smoke the driver can see:) It is getting kinda tired though. Would love to get another motor all set with new belt heads clutch blah blah blah for a quick swap. Believe me EVERYONE told me how stupid I was... SA LA VI:) Ever done somethin stupid? I have yep I have:) If I had a nickel for every mistake I've ever made I could afford to hire all of YOU to make them for me from now on lol:)

lol big dif:) nice job

yep what he said, I hate tearin that thing apart, I'd leave it:) Can't you just use a jumper from ground to the lead under the horn to test that?

AHH this is true! I thought about it, but i'm gonna try it anyways. I'll let you know if the new one fails again before the others. so the old lifters will theoretically accept oil easier than the new one because the check ball springs are looser by now in the old ones. If I have any pressure or volume problems in that area it could starve the new lifter MAYBE. Or were u talkin about the valve springs? How far do we go before someone says just redo the heads LMAO I'm gettin the parts I ordered on WED. and putting them in, will let u guys know results... for those that haven't read back history, I already have the heads, but was told I was crazy for putting them on the old block by MANY people not just here, so I wasted a ton of money on that, might still usem later though, no big... Life's too short to dwell on things like that OOOPS

Ok I have some of that.

So ccrinc you agree with Ivan? Leave them unprimed and let the pump get them where they need to be? That's 2 against the book and seems to make more sense than holding them open too far. By working these things it seems like getting that rod BACK IN after priming would be tough. I'll do that. Hey thanks so much for all the help guys!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hope I can return the favor someday, but as most of you have no doubt figured out, I don't know much about cars:) Maybe someday I'll get a CNC and make a program for that spendy adapter for EJ22 from EA81 swap:):)

I KNEW someone would say that:) makes sense, I don't even have compressed air though...hmmmm might take it to work... my work has lots of granite dust though, boss said yeah bring your stuff on down!, I look around at all that dust and thought UM NO> good call fair, I'll see what I can do

Oil pump? Oring on oil pump? dunno if it's in there on that one....

oh no! sounds like maybe forgot to reconnect a lead at batt for fuse box maybe? MAYBE popped a fusible link....

Well as GD points out it's not a rocket all of these would probably work. But as a guy who's worked in machine shops, and taken a couple years of schooling on it, I know that reverse engineering parts from OEM things DO get changed. Spring tensions, o-rings, metal types. I keep in mind that every machine shop is in business to make money. But to the point, what does it matter? It matters to me, does it matter to you?

So GD since your here, what about priming? Put them in with air so they can adjust? Or pre-prime like the book says and hope they retract into adjustment quickly. I know it's not a rocket. Thanks for that. On oring measuring, Mine r almost 300K old and are likely to stretch when taken off, also the OD I gotta say CANNOT be to spec on a 300K oring. So I would at least need to see a spec one in order to get it right. Correct me if I'm wrong, it happens, fairly often...

That's 1 price lashing post AHAHAH BUT! Those parts DO NOT exactly match the one I'm holding in my hand. Various but probably important differences. TOP- the side hole is located on a chamfer that the original does not have, the hole is half on the outside surface, half on the FLAT smaller diameter, also that surface appears too wide to my machinist eye. Middle- Looks ok from what I can SEE but who knows what grade steel and other components r used Bottom- I would not buy this part. The machining is rougher than the others and again the side hole location is all wrong AND lol out of round (the chamfer moved the drill point probably, drill FIRST, then turn), there is no chamfer there and that outter diameter the hole is next to is not wide enough. Look closely at the cap end by the plunger and you will see it is different has a dif roll to it. also I know I'm looking at pics but the plunger radius on the end does not seem as pronounced. Oil journals on the pics are various sizes as well I KNOW I'm getting what the engineers specified from the dealer. I also know that these ALL would probably work, for how long, who knows? But thanks very much for your input Quidam, I think others will benefit from more info rather than less:)

TY for that It contradicts the books though. In order for them to be able to move they must not have oil in the lifters. Would you suggest priming the rocker assembly as much as possible? If you have experience doing it that way can you tell me about how long they take to pump up? Fastest time? Longest time? Would it be a good idea to crank the motor over for say 30 seconds without letting it start? If the pump can make any progress at that slow speed? Say disconnect spark or power to EFI? Anyone else want to chime in on that?

Quid- I only needed one and want to be very sure it's got all the right specs. I'm willing to pay extra (gulp) to make sure I got the right part in this case. Now please don't think I get all my parts there, far from it. I'm now ready for a few posts of lashing from other members saying I paid too much shoulda done this, that, called this cousin, blah blah zzz BTW- a couple posts here have mentioned EA82, just a reminder this is for an EJ22. I understand though, most info here is probably good for both.

SO GET THIS! Subaru of Bend Lifter - $27 - parts stores were $16-$25 not bad okay I'll do that... O-rings - r u sitting down? $3.45 EACH X 16 (In case I break one or something) you heard right guys and gals $55 dollars for all the o-rings UNREAL. I went ahead and did it. Could prob save $30 if I dug around the internet but at least I can trust that the ones I ordered are right for the job. OOOOOOOOUUUUUUUUUUUCCCCCCCCCCCCHHHHH:)

nice:)gl

ty what do you mean rebuilds? the new HLAs are around $20 each I've read that some dealers will only sell 16 at a time (lame) parts stores said no prob mid week. (sounded like everyone was seeing the same one in Spokane Wa.) Anyways I'm hoping the stealership has them better faster harder":)

K I might reveal how stupid I am here but since you're waiting so long for a response here goes. Do you think you may have a valve leaking? Making your PCV system work overtime? I wonder if a bad valve leak ends up throwing off your air/fuel mixture because the extra air input after the MAF sensor would not be calculated by the computer. (I GUESS not realized by the computer at least until the O2 sensor crys foul) need a compression test to find out for sure...

So, I'm gonna take that part number to suby dealer and get new rings for 15 of the lifters. I'm going to order 1 lifter from them if I can, if not various stores said they could get me one for under $20 by Wednesday. When putting it back together, the PDF and Haynes say to keep the lifters and the assembly fully oil primed by keeping it in an upright position. Some responses here have sounded like it's not such a big deal as the oil pump will get the parts primed EVENTUALLY. So here's what concerns me: IF Fully pumped and primed when I put them back on will they not hold the valves that want to ride at less than max plunger depth open? at least momentarily? IF NOT primed how long will it take to pump to fill assembly and bleed out the air until all works correctly? This to me sounds like beating the bejeebus out of the lifters and not opening the valves all the way until I get oil pressure AND clear the air bubbles out. Basically, what's it gonna do when I start it, what should I expect? A couple misfires? Maybe leave PCV hoses off in case valves don't seal right away?

TYTY for the number RAD I love this forum:)

ty

Solid lifters- good idea, but sounds like another $100 thing I don't really need:) (still got those heads remember? ) gonna fix these lifters and try to drive some more... I found a 90 suby closeby with 100K for $600 I'm gonna look at next week, it doesn't run but it sounds like it could be a simple fuel delivery issue (filter). Might grab it for a future swap. Sound like a plan man?