glkiller2

like he said yes and yes I had one die in the middle of a 30 mile trip, went to turn a corner and when the car got to idle it started to sputter and died no power. I had drained the battery completely. Got a jump, drove it like that keeping my RPMS up at stops for 7 or so miles. Drove borrowed car to parts store got alternator put it in, no problems since. Mine went fast, Have had them go slow, work intermittently etc. heat is bad:) BTW bench test of old one at the shop said it was good! I am confident the connections were good before I took it out... The shop might hassle ya if it tests ok, BE A BULLY:) get a new one...

So I took off the other side and those are fine (#1 and #3 pistons) The collapsed one I got to pump up with a bit of coercing. BUT it has a little slop in the check ball so it squishes a TOUCH. I'm gonna put gas through it to see if I can get it solid then repump with oil. I read a post that said any old o-ring that FIT would do, does the color matter?(mine are orange) Seams like they could be Temperature rating color coded but not sure. Would black ones work as well?

workin good! drivers side the collapsed one will not pump up all others pump now to the other side.. If I only have to buy 1 I'm IN I'll put it back together and try it out

Think I like this method... if I put the old ones back in I should at least get them new external orings right? the old ones look shot

mine was stuck I used pliers to pull out, now it moves freely. should I soak them all to move freely? them put them all back in to let the oil pump pump up? Of course when they are extended the others don't want to move (feels stuck but could be working right.)

NAPA has these- Valve Lifter (Hydraulic) Part Number: ATM 0565021 Product Line: Altrom Imports $25.65 At Warehouse Oreilly- Sealed Power - Engine Valve Lifter Part # HT2254 List $17.99 Each subarugenuineparts.com- (no pic to confirm right part) that 1.8 designation is scetchy...same one? Cylinder head & valves, Valve lifters Impreza, Legacy - 1.8l, impreza & legacy ENGINE »Cylinder head & valves Subaru › Legacy › 1991-1994 List Price : $27.73 Your Price : $21.13 Would I be better off goin to the stealership for a better part?

So you guys think I should try some new HLAs? Fair- I didn't check clearances (should have) So hey the lifters on #1 and #3 seem to be fine even #2 looked good. I read that it was prone if the problem was the oil pump o-ring to have issues on the #1 piston. Does that mean the ring is OK. I will have a MECH pressure gauge on it next time I start it to tell for sure. The rebuild PDF I have says to manually pump up the hla in an oil bath. I tried that with the collapsed one and it didn't pump. maybe I should soak them all in gas and work them first to clear out any crud that could be preventing the little ball (check valve?) in the end from sealing??? Do they come apart?

SICK!

I just know someone has done it... Who has put rebuilt heads on an old 300K EJ22 without rebuilding the block and been happy with results? Would love to read the story.

sounds like a fair price, if you were here I'd consider it. sry bud

Did that before taking it apart... with Lucas, seafoam, just oil... It's had 3 oil changes in under 800 miles.... I usually drive around 2500 - 3500 RPM but I tried driving the hell out of it for a day after putting in these additives, shifting after 4000 up to 5000 trying to build up oil pressure. no difference

car in Redmond for $600 Automatic 100K gonna go look at next week. She said it doesn't run now but did recently and she has over $600 worth of tires that go with it hmmmmmmmm

You have a couple IVAN? what price? nevermind Canadaland:), I bet it's as much to ship as it cost.

I've read this response alot and it kinda staggers me that most members would rather put in an engine that has 150K and an unknown history of maintenance than rebuild the thing to get a practically new motor. From what I gather you can rebuild heads and block for around $1500 why is this not worth it? If I got 2 150Ks that make it to 300K (cross your fingers) for say $700 each (running motors) thats 1400 and 2 swaps of labor. (BTW I CANNOT find one locally that runs ready to go for under $800 maybe in Portland or the valley but not here.) I DO see a car with auto trans 100K for under 1000. why not spend 1500 do the swap once and enjoy a fresh rebuild? or buy a car with under 200K for 1500 and do no swaps at all. all seems like half dozen of one six of the other to me:)

what dan said +1

Thanks but this thing has almost 300,000 miles, it's been SLOWLY losing performance and MPG for awhile, I'm over it... Now that I've seen the cams and the condition of the rockers I know there's worse news inside. Gonna drive around the old GL for awhile till I find a newer motor or newer car. Or end up rebuilding.

sounds just like mine did with bad HLAs before I took them off yesterday. (I understand you don't have those) But it sounds like valve noise 2 me. Good luck.

Anyone with a reasonably priced, GOOD running young motor (or rebuilt) should PM me (for that matter a nice car with a recent rebuild), I'm in Central Oregon. I'll keep my eyes open for options in the meantime. I'm not interested in travelling to the valley to look at junkyard motors that have been drinking rain for god knows how long.

Thanks guys, got em out, they look like hell, got the collapsed one unstuck, but it won't pump up. Got some black chatter marks on my cams, not too bad, uniform, but not great. On the bright side, the insides look extremely clean, EXCEPT the center bolts were so gummed up with crud they were hard to pull out. I used a hole gauge and micrometer to measure the bores, there's about a 3 thou deviation between the various bores. I'm not convinced that if I put new TINY orings on the lifters that it would do any good. For that matter all new lifters prob wouldn't seal up either. Could see evidence on a couple bores of polishing, meaning the lifter is moving in the bore. Rocker arms have divots where they ride the cam lobes, about a millimeter across:( This engine is on it's way out 4 sure. Gonna pull it and see what else there is to see. LET THIS BE A LESSON NEVER put a new windshield in your old suby:) it'll give you something else to do.

did you check for power getting to both sides of the fuse? I don't know the Impreza at all to be of help, sry

What car? year, blah blah

So I'm diggin into my loud valves. I took the rocker assembly off my EJ22 and I'm almost happy to find one HLA is stuck compressed. I don't WANT to pull my oil pump:). It's the front exhaust valve on drivers side back piston. I've read many threads here but can't seem to find one that details the removal of HLAs from the rocker assembly. The Haynes book says they should be removable by hand and to soak them in Carb cleaner for awhile if not easy to free them up. I haven't tried that hard yet and would really like to NOT put carb cleaner on and I presume in them. Are they supposed to push out from the back of the rocker arm? I read one guy saying he kept putting his screwdriver into his hand I think using this method. Should I have to use a bearing puller? Bike chain link remover? Here's a little more background: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=130927 Any tips from U gurus?

Cheapest SHORT block I could find locally $750. Not all of us live in a big city. I'm not driving over 100 miles to go look at a uncovered, rusted, full of water block for $500 (worst case) turn around because I don't like it, and look for another. Rather buy a different car...

So after MUCH deliberation, here's the plan. Like earlier stated I prob have an HLA Problem. I'm going to pull the rocker assemblies from both sides and check all lifters and replace o rings (dang orings). Using this procedure as a guide : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76989 Also checking for proper relief valve operation and unclogged ports in rocker assembly. From what I gather if that doesn't work I need to pull the oil pump and install a new oring there. (the one my parts guy said doesn't show up in database.) This is where the choice comes in. If I have to do the oil pump I'm going to rebuild the hole engine. If it does work I'm going to go till something else makes me want to rebuild, hopefully without getting stuck on the roadside. I can't make sense out of putting on a new T-Belt, water pump, pulleys etc. without just goin all the way and making an engine that will last me another 300000 (if I do a good job:) Not only that but what if my switch to synthetic oil loosened a chunk of crud in there that's blocking an oil passage in the block that feeds the valvetrain? Then the HLA and oil pump fix AND doing tbelt pumps etc. while I'm in there will have no effect and I would be MAD AS ^$%^&$%! I came to this after firing up my old 83 gl the other day and rallying it around the yard, good stuff, it runs great once warm. (didn't really want to go back to it after my love affair with my EJ22 but I decided to swallow my pride a little and stop whining and throwing around more money) So using that I can afford to park the leggy until completely rebuilt. I wanted to get a spare engine but I'm kinda sick of the pile of parts I have for my old GL and I saw myself falling into a motor collecting pattern:) Will try to dig up my camera and take picks of HLA work for the forum in a new thread dedicated to that topic. Thanks for all the advice guys!

Yeah Fair, I think I'll try that too. I won't have time till spring break but that sounds good. If the lifters do act normal though I have to get to that oil pump. But I'm still gonna look for an engine. If nothing else I'll get my spare engine all set and drive this one till it dies. THX!