glkiller2

so Oil change did nothing to the noise, as expected. I'll let u guys know what goes on with motor.

Same so far, we'll see if a drive helps on Monday.

So just for SNG I'm gonna go try an oil change. I still would like a new engine. I bought some LUCAS synthetic additive that I will add to Mobile 1 full synthetic 5-30 Probably should have put this at start of thread. About 2 years ago the last time the ticking was lasting longer without going away I was a Castrol GTX 10-40 user non synthetic. I switched to Mobile 1 and the ticking was instantly better and even disappeared for awhile. Then it gradually came back during startup. On my last oil change at startup it wasn't ticking. I took a trip to town 30 miles and when I stopped I noticed it. It has now persistently ticked for about 6 weeks. I'll go do that change and let u guys know what happens. BTW I realize I may not be the smartest guy on what oils to use so be gentle:) I THINK what's going on is exactly what you guys said I have a bad lifter (dang o-rings) maybe getting aerated oil (dang o-rings) Maybe the LUCAS can pump it up.

Posting for PM priveledges, okay. NOGO Houston. PM me. Got it THX. So I followed the link you gave, is that block only? Would need my Heads? I'm really not too worried about using or selling the heads. I would rather get a whole new engine and save the current one for sensors and other spare parts.

dunno how to PM yet. (DUNCE CAP) Is it the Instant Message option?

Well alright then GD, HOOK ME UP:) Maybe we can work out something on my heads if your interested. Or the 83 GL that you helped me a few years back with the disty and the EGR on a newer 160K motor. Or hey believe it or not I have CASH:) I would LOVE to throw in an engine that has your blessing. I'm perfectly comfortable swapping motors, no prob.

BTW if I get another car then my current becomes the backup:) THAT MEANS the 83 GL can be sacrificed to the RALLY IN THE WOODS GODS MWA HA HA HA. I spiced it up a bit with gasket matched (and enlarged) intake, breathers for PCV plugged all vacs blocked off EGR hehehehehe

I'm certain it's rebuildable, it runs great. but after reading all these posts I thought hard on it and I'm not in love with the car itself. I do want to keep with the EJ22 and I can find another younger motor in a better car cheaper than rebuilding the engine. Little ol lady in Redmond has one for $600 with 100,000 miles, says needs work. If it needs heads I'm in business right?

Wow thanks for all the replies guys, really appreciated. Feel like GD and FairTax pretty much r sayin I'm a dumb#%$ Sure wish Shawn or GD or someone as knowledgeable could come do that quick fix with me.. If I have to get to the oil pump I might as well do the timing belt and idlers If timing then water pump, crank seal on and on and on 300000 300000 300000 Thanks for being supportive Robert, but they're right... sigh:) And HOWDY TODD! I can't bear the thought of owning another interference engine but I wish you luck with your new OB. Tell me if you guys think this is a better plan: Just found an add on craigslist for 2 91s both running engines 1 has interior parts missing no title. $1300 I could buy both of those, steal the engine from the parts car for my current car, and give the worst of the 2 runners to my son. I can keep the parts I have for the heads until needed by a younger engine. I don't have access to $500 engines here. I was quoted $3500 for a motor not even rebuilt, very high demand here. Junkyards were at $850 for questionable motors. GD you in Portland? I could come get one from there but I'd still be paying nearly $100 in gas before I got it home. I think I will try to find a sweet deal like the one I mentioned and save the heads for that. Or sell them... But thanks guys for convincing me that the 300,000 mile engine isn't worth rebuilding... Anyone know of a sweet 92 legy in central oregon that needs a set of heads? OOO OOO OR TRADE? I still have my 83 GL.......... runs good, bad halfshafts....blah blah ...spare motor and parts Would trade for a strong motor in a heartbeat, any takers?

Just how hard is it to split the block and get back together? Scary for me. I've never even changed heads, I think I can get it done though. I have the haynes book on it and downloaded a pdf on a full rebuild. Youtube is pretty useless from what I've found. I am a machinist (not for motors) and I am also worried about the 295,000. Those bearings are sure to be out of spec by now:) Piston pins etc... Can you just split the case, pulling 2 pistons out of 1 side, unbolt crank and pull out other 2? I WILL read up on it b4 I do it of course. Also, what are people's thoughts on getting new head bolts? Is putting stock bolts back in a bad idea and why? Thanks for the reply!

Hi ALL! So my old 92 Legacy (EJ22 NA) has always had a valve tap that used to come (when cold) and go (within 10 seconds of startup) or when warm, but now won't go:) Taps pretty loud. It still runs good and even gets decent mileage (slight drop). It has 295,000 miles and still gets 28MPG with this prob (winter city driving). I bought a spare set of heads from a junkyard and took them to the machine shop to make sure they r in gr8 shape. Good thing because NAPA has had said heads now for 3 weeks, I could not let my car be down for that long. I was worried that the valve would fatique and break off causing even more damage. I can't detect any bottom end noise, no slap, no knocks. My question is this: I've heard from half the people I tell about my project that I should rebuild the bottom end anytime I change the heads. They say putting new heads on an old set of crankshaft bearings is going to be trouble. I plan on doing a compression test before I tear into it. and trying to detect any bearing play after the heads are off. If those tests go ok I think I could get away with just the head replacement. This will be the first major repair I've had to do in the 6 years I've owned and punished it driving HWY 97 from Lapine to Redmond regularly. So I'm willing if I can get much more out of it. I'm not looking to mod it to increase power or anything, I'm happy with current performance for that matter. Should I rebuild all the way? BTW I've already tried additives to stop the noise, It's beyond that I think. Probably an o-ring went bad. I thought the Space Shuttle Challenger taught us about o-ring reliability. (Hate the dang things) But what can we do? Any opinions?

GD! I just realized that was u! Dude u rock! still here... General Disorder has helped me with everything Seems like whenever I post a message on here he's there to help, thanks man. BTW I was just plain glkiller years ago when you helped me with my bad Disty vac advance. Good 2 c u. Thanks for the offer Twitch I have a digi-dash, don't know if it works but I'll zip it down to you for my cost and shipping. PM me with details if you're interested. Since this post I've started going to college and my financial aid is slow to be approved because the college is packed. the paper pushers are pullin their hair out:) So I'vce had to spend a bunch of money on books and my rents now late so IM BROKE:) Maybe later this month though... But then I might go with bheinen74 idea of just stickin some after market guages in it, this car will also be a four wheelin SOB:) I think I'll give my wife's 83 the good motor though, hers sounds like a rod is just clunkin around the crank with no bearing:) bad soundin but just keeps on tickin... unreal:) Thanks for your input guys...

Thanks for the replies guys! I'll message carfreak85 and see what he has 2 say. I'm not too thrilled about replacing it knowing problems will arrise again. So Ill probably try to convert to analog. The only reason I would keep the Digi is for the cool trip computer... hmmmmmmm The Headlights don't work but the cluster lamps do, they dim ok and all that. the door switches seem to work to along with the digi readout for them. I also have an 83 GL with analog to compare it too. I bought this car for parts before I found all the cool gadgets in it, now I wanna make it a hunting rig:) so as long as I have oil pressure, heat and rpm Im ok. Thanks again for the replies guys, long live the forum!

Literally guys... I could not believe what the previous owner told me... And I quote, "My boyfriend told me that the cobwebs in my dash were a fire hazard so I used a GARDEN HOSE to clean them out..." blink blink So this poor little red LOADED 84 GL Wagon sits for months dead. I drive by like 4 times a week drooling... Sunroof, power mirrors, windows, working radio, Cruise, AC blah blah blah I got it for $300, first thing I do is check fusible links, middle ones burnt. Replaced it new battery, car starts and runs like a champ but thats the only good news:) I have a DIGIDASH:( fried as fried can be, and am scared to find out how rare they may be and how much they cost, is it worth the switch to analog, better yet should I pirate some monstrosity racing guages in it:) JK The dash is all apart so the removal is done... I did some searches found old threads where 1 guy found 1 from another member. Many people say the conversion either way is hell... What do you think guys, go analog or beg a good deal off some cool member either way I need parts so if you got the parts,. im interested:)