i_subie

They're still all 2.5L, '06 WRX+

As long as you have matching final drive with the rear differential then you should be fine.

I would like to come but then I'll be at the MAP, drift, drag, autoX, track event up in MN getting some seat time.

You should definitely get some pictures! I wanna get a set too for my daily driver. I hate it when you have those morons that leaves their high beams on.

I used to run Castrol Syn and then switched over to Mobil 1. After switching over to Mobil 1, that's when I noticed having only 2-3.5qts of oil left, after every oil change. That's with the weekend AutoX events and including lapping days. Then one day at a lapping day event, my rod bearings went out. All of my fellow Subaru buddies asked what engine oil I used. I told them Mobil 1, they all gave me hell. Told me I should go with Rotella syn 5w40. I haven't had any issues yet or having only 2-3qts left doing an oil change.

I believe the stock oil pan bolts are 10mm.

Could possibly be a bad MAF sensor.

While you're still at it, you should go with a set of 10:1 compression pistons and maybe some delta cams!

I had to replace the knock sensor for both of my RS and I don't have any issues with them yet. I only order OEM because I get it the next day and less expensive.

Try going with OEM Subaru parts? It may be costly but you won't have any issues later down the road.

Yes, I was in Laramie for school.

What you can do is take the timing belt cover on the driver's side off. Their should be 3-4 bolts holding it on. It should slide out, don't try and yank it out. Put the car in neutral and take a ratchet with a 22mm socket and turn the crank pulley bolt clockwise or counterclockwise. If you can't get the ratchet in due to the radiator fans in the way, you will have to remove the fans. Then from there, turn the crank pulley bolt with your ratchet and inspect the timing belt. Look for cracks, see if the markings on the TB are still there and the "Subaru ---->" marking. As for the slap, could be due to piston slap. Not a big issue typical Subaru thing, my '99 2.5RS has(116K) does the same until the engine gets up to temp, never drive the car with a cold engine.

I've wrenched on cars, I do my own work. I rebuild my EJ25D, spun a rod bearing at a lapping day event and found out the previous owner used a Phase 2 block. I've done tranny swap, engine swap, differential and such. As long as it isn't electrical then I'm good. lol. I live in WI, I've come upon 2-3 Subaru Brat and seen one back in WY, when I was there for school. Other than that, I found a Brat for sale but it needs work, A LOT of work actually. I'm looking for another car incase my '99 RS (DD) needs maintenance. The guy isn't asking much but it just needs work and it'll cost me more to get the car home.

The car/engine isn't suppose to be running while you are checking for codes.

If it's a 4.111 just find a 4.111 rear diff and it should bolt on.

You can either replace the timing belt or see bent valves. Whichever is easier to replace. As for other things you can replace while you're doing the timing belt are the, water pump, oil pump, and new timing belt tensioner, incase that one decides to go out on you, like how mine did...grrr

Did you turn the key to the "ON" position?

Hello, I am new on here and a little about myself. I currently own two Subaru Impreza, 1998 black diamond pearl 2.5RS and a 1999 world rally blue 2.5RS. I do compete in AutoX events and as well as track events. I am currently looking for a Subaru Brat because they look pimp with the back seats. Just the way they look and how RARE they are. I just wanna know how rare are the 1st gen and 2nd gen Subaru Brat? I've found some on craigslist and ebay for $2500-$3000+