DaveSluder

Hmmm... The car has been making this noise for 5000mi now. Sounds like it's the bearings. I guess Im just waiting to see how far I can go.

Oh yeah, Im sure it is front diff noise. And that would be gear lube that was checked. I guess I am looking to find someone who has had diff failure. What happens when it goes? Does it just stop going or does it lock up? Maybe it just gets so loud you cant take it.

I have a 98 Forester Automatic. The front end is making noise constantly now, 208K mi. Fluid is OK. Pretty noisy, good thing the radio is good. So, here's the question, when do I go ahead and replace this? I want to ride it all the way out stopping just before it strands me. Anybody had one totally fail? How does that normally happen? Thanks....

Use an industrial heat gun, it's temp will be more even and will not have a hot spot like you will have with a torch. And no open flame to boot! Use a stiff paint scraper multitool, the one with a semicircle on the side for cleaning the paint roller. That is just the one with all of it's different sides and angles to get all the spots. It costs maybe $5-$7 at Home Depot or the like. Happy Scraping--

Here I am again! This time I am experiencing a steering wheel vibration when I get to 40mph. Nothing underneath seems loose, so I am wondering if maybe a bad front strut may be causing this. If this is addressed on another thread let me know. BTW 98 Forester ej25d & 4eat.

I have a 98 legacy. Recently, when I drive on roads that are slick, my car handles strangely. That is it is a bit squirrely, it almost seems like it wants to "pass" itself. My tires are new (less than 1500 miles), car was aligned when I replaced the tires. This symptom does not exist on dry roads, or is at least not perceptable. The symptom is not noticeable until about 35mph. There is no perceptable movement in any of the suspension components when I examine the car jacked up. Wheel bearings are OK. I am clueless other that something could be really wrong with the alignment. Any suggestions would be appreciated--------------Thanks Dave

Well I didn't have to use any sand but, after bleeding the brakes and filling the master cylinder, the "brake" light is still on. Anyone have any clues? Do I need to reset something? Thanks, Dave

Anyways brake lines were installed last night. I just broke down and bought a double flare tool and spliced in under the back seat onto clean brake lines. I just need to wait for my oldest boy to help me bleed the brakes. I just went over to the left side under the back seat and exiting through the fuel line grommet. I am assuming that the line forward of the back seat stays in reasonable condition. Guess we will see.

I have noticed that I do not have TB symptoms when cold, like pulling out of the driveway first thing in the morning. And to answer a previous question, it has been a long time since I changed the ATF. So, A filter and fluid will be in order very soon.

No blinking light at startup, would that indicate trouble codes?

I read the thread on TB in the archives but it said problem was corrected in 97 1/2. My car is a 98 and is displaying TB symptoms. Any suggs. on what to do? How does this condition go terminal? How long can I let the wife drive it? Thanks Dave:)

Yes, I think it was a coincidence!:-\

I have a 98 Forester, last night in the middle of a pizza delivery, I saw a snow filled field. Finding the temptation too great, I went for a little spin. Well anyways coming out of the field I applied the brakes and the went to the floor! So, I pulled onto the road popped the hood and found the resevoir low. I then pulled forward slightly to find a puddle on the rear right side. Today I went under for a look and it looks like the leak is coming from on top of the fuel tank. So I am assuming it is going to be a hard line. Is there one up there? How can I go about replacing that one? I guess there is 1 or 2 lines coming from up front. Anybody got any suggestions? What flare style do these cars have? Thanks in advance for your help... Dave

Don't even bother with the Harbor Freight Welder!! That's gonna be a waste of time. I have a Lincoln 110 volt Welder I think it is 100 amps. Unless you are welding thick stuff like greater than 3/16ths. I have had this machine for about 12 years and it has been used and abused, and still performs flawlessly. I use it to weld on many automotive projects, and around the farm. I bought the base kit from Home Depot (just wire feed) and later added the gas kit. But really I have not used it as a mig machine in years. Flux core welding gets a bad wrap cause well, I don't know!! You can weld on "dirty" metal, never have to worry about running out of gas and you can ultimately weld thicker material with this process. Also you can use it outside with a breeze. I use a 12-3 HD extention cord and it works great!! Don't waste your money on chinese junk, that's what it is!! Lincoln is made in Cleveland Oh. Best Luck!! Dave:banana:

Thanks, In the haynes manual it doesn't tell you to depress the check ball, that will make all of the difference. Will try that procedure this afternoon. Thanks, Dave

Sweet, as I said I have been into aircooled VW's for years. My summer driver is a 72 beetle with seriously a ton of mile I have put nearly 100,000 on it in the 11 years i have had it, and it was 27 years old then. So I am no stranger to keeping them going for a long while. will do what I can to get at least 350,000 out of these cars then look for southern replacements. Thanks for all the info... PS My 73vw bus needs an engine, I am strongly considering an ej22 conversion, I am bit by the Subaru bug, afterall subaru is just urabus backwards. Dave

I have a 98 legacy with a transplant motor. It is a n ej22 HLA OBD2, so maybe like 95 or 96 I guess, anyways I am having trouble getting the HLA's to "pump up". I had one that was ticking real bad, removed it, it was sticky so I cleaned it up now it is springs up but no luck in submerging it into oil and pumping it to get it hard. Am I using the wrong technique? Thanks for your help Dave

Thanks again, i used the car to deliver pizzas last night in the snow storm. Added bonus-- CEL is out wohoo!!

OK guys thanks for the help, you were dead on about the ECTS! Cooling fans are off and smooth cold starts. Once I finally spotted the (un)connection it only took 20min to plug that sucker in! I could just barely see it and barely get my finger(s) on it. Again thanks tons, and what a great forum!! USMB forever! Dave

will I need to loosen the manifold bolts to get at this?

Also consider a bent axle, that will give uneven braking, before removing the wheel jack the car up and determine from a stationary object if the rim wobbles in relation to it. use something like a jackstand as you can get that close to the wheel.

I have been into aircooled VW's for years and am just getting into soobies for winter transportation. I have 2 98's a legacy ej22 and forester ej 25d (head gaskets just done) they have 209,000 and 205,000. How long can these last? I know a lot of it has to do with rust etc. but, when I did do the head gaskets the cylinders looked great. Can I get 300,000 from these cars? What kind of total mileages do you folks have on your cars? Thanks

Is that located on that flat pipe or is it elsewhere?

Is that the single wire sending unit on the flat pipe under the manifold? I had forgot to plug it in originally, but corrected it after I noticed that the temp guage was not working at all. But the fans stay on, thanks for the help...

I have a 98 forester, just changed the head gaskets with the engine removed. And now the fans run constantly. The temperature guage seems to work properly. anyone have any ideas? Also if I let the car sit overnight it is reluctant to start, like it is not getting fuel. If I put the key to the on position and try restarting it catches a little, I have to repeat it 20x then she will start. Any help would be great, Thanks