Arty

My '95 wagon refuses to spray any fluid. The front nozzles work just fine. I have tried clearing the rear nozzle out with a pin... still nothing. Absolutely nothing works. I'd love to get this stupid thing working. Any ideas?

My car has central locks. I flip the switch on the driver's side and they all react, etc. I'm just wondering where this thing would even go. I know it's under the dash in the driver's side foot well, but will there just be a cable hanging out there? Do I have to pull it from something else? And now that you mentioned ensuring my car has the electronic locks- did some of the '95 Legacy's not have electronic locks? I have another 95, but it's a Legacy L and the locks don't react to the driver's switch.

Here is the item... like I said, I only think it's from a 98, and I want this to go into a 95. It would be so awesome if this worked.

I came across a keyless entry for what I can only assume is a '98 (or so) Legacy today... I have a '95. Will it work?

Wow... I feel so stupid. :-(

So wait... is it interface or interference?

Ok, now that I know my engine isn't interface, anyone care to explain in detail just what that means? I think I have a basic understanding of it, but I would love to know the details. Any takers?

Awesome possum, I have a 95 Thanks, man!!!

I feel like I remember reading somewhere that the EJ22 is non interface, and I searched for it on here and couldn't really find anything. Yes, no?

Dude, nice headlights. Where did you get those?

Sorry I'm late, but yeah. That's 100%, grade A, absolutely the same thing that happened to me.

Awesome, thanks man.

I need a plastic cap key blank for a 95 legacy. I despise dealing with the Subaru dealership, and when I tried, they ordered the wrong key three times. Anyone have any ideas on where I may acquire one?

This sounds exactly like what my car did before the alternator went kaput. The gauges bouncing around was the kiss of death. What ended up being the problem was the lead wire to the alternator from the battery terminal was making contact with itself, shorting out the system. Apparently, a few friends of mine with Subarus have had the same issue. I hope it's this simple for you as well. Though I don't understand why I didn't make it 25 miles and you're making it for hours on end... best of luck to you, man.

Not OP, but I've tried this before. I can never keep the car running when the intake is disconnected. Also, if the ECT is not OEM, how likely is it to work properly with the car?

After looking in many places, I just want to ask one more to be positive... The tank size on a 95 Legacy Outback is 15.9 gallons, correct?

Are you kidding me?! I just stood in front of one at the dealership today and was mesmerized! The rear wing looks goofy as can be, but the aesthetics look so much better to me. You didn't think the 2008 and 2009 Impreza was ugly? The things look like Kias. And those STUPID, STUPID clear tail lights. STUPID. And what were they thinking with the center console?! Sorry, just my opinion... not saying you're wrong. Just man... those Impezas were ugly and those tail lights were STUPID!!!

The front sensor is new-ish. But the guy who had the car before me never put OEM parts in it, so I've spent a decent amount of time fixing the problems after market parts have caused. I wonder if there may actually be an issue with the front sensor being some cheap piece of garbage? Because if I'm not mistaken, SUbarus naturally hate non OEM electric parts, right? Oh, but that code is the only one being thrown.

I've got a 95 legacy outback, 2.2 ~184,000 miles. i replaced the ects and sender a while back and that fixed a number of issues. there just seems to be a stronger smell of gas when i first start my car now. but you're right, it was the o2 sensor code, i mistyped it. just about every time i drive, i drive a short distance. if this thing is killing my mileage, i guess it should be replaced. i read that it's ok to buy after market for the rear o2 sensor. is this true?

is there any good fix for that?

My car throws the P1041 code. I've read every thread on this site relating to said code, and I can't seem to find an consistency in terms of an answer to my question- Can this issue be making a dramatic difference in MPG? Because recently, I've gone from getting 300+ miles per tank down to about 175. The CEL has been on all along, and nothing else has really changed. I'm confused. If it won't make a difference, I guess it's fine to just let it go? Also... I'm beginning to wonder if maybe something is wrong with my fuel gauge. It's always shown being completely empty at around 260 mile, then the light didn't come on until 300, but now the gauge is already at half by 100 miles, light on at 175. Once it gets to the quarter mark, it just drops all the way down to completely empty while there is obviously still gas in there. Could these two things at all be related?

Wow, dude. I once had someone tell me the EXACT same thing. They could not have been more wrong. I too have a 95. I was told it would be 3 screws and it would drop right out. That was a vicious lie. I had to take the glove box out, and I still had to bend a bracket just to get the stupid blower to drop out. In terms of physical space, there was no way the thing would drop out so easily. So basically, yeah... I feel your pain. I sat there the whole time, cussing the guy's name under my breath who told me it would be so simple.

Hey, that was perfect, thank you so much! I've read a few things about Redline's fluid and most people seem to gravitate towards that... I'm actually quite conflicted about which fluid would be the best.

I'm wondering if there is anyone out there willing to give me the best directions on changing out differential fluid and manual transmission fluid on my '95 Legacy Outback? I honestly don't know of the last time either one of these has done, much less if they were even done by the previous owners. Also- any ideas on the exact types and amounts of fluid I'll need? Thanks!!!