JLDT

Hey all - lost the bolt on the Pump, stripped the shaft and the pully gears. I have managed to find a pump - good news. The dealer wants 70 for the pulley and I am really hoping that someone out there can get me one sooner and cheaper. My car is out at a jobsite and I leave friday morning and need to get it back in town by then. No such luck at the local JY's if you know of one what might have it I am willing to try to get there, but between work and life, time is limited. Thanks - let me know if you have one on some wreck I can get too.

Hey all So good news on this one - I finally got a chance to look at it indaylight and easily found some oil and coolant leaks, as well as why my fan wasn't working. So I decided to do those repairs, top it up and cross my fingers. The car was still running, so I didn't have any reason to suspect head gasket other than the odd colour fluid coming from underneath. SO I got it running again today and I am hoping that the purple was just a trick of the light or perhaps somthing to do with the surface it was dripping onto. Who knows? The good news is I have a car back the does better than 10 miles to the gallon. Thanks for all the input.

Hey all Thanks for the thoughts. The motor was out because I was going to go through and reseal it, but I was convinced by someone that the factory sealing job would be better than anything that I could do . . . . I should have resealed it while I had the chance. Do these cars have valve seals like my truck on the valve stems that could be leaking? I really don't know because Like I said i didn't tear into it as much as i intended the last time. About a swap, about how much woudl that cost me? I was thinking about 5 or 6 hundred, but if someone knows how to get one cheaper, I might consider doing that as well.

Hey all - I have an 86 D/R that I recently did the mickey mouse gasket on, but didn't do anything else while I had the engine out:banghead:. I got the engine back in fired up and passed emissions about a week ago and now it seems to be dripping a rather runny purple fluid - I am running chevron 10-30. In 300 miles the oil is off the dipstick, the overflow is empty and you can't see fluid in the radiator. Seeing as money is limited and time is even worse - is it worth more scrapped than repaired? How much am I looking at? I really like this car but like I said I am way to busy to fix it unless I am certain that it is worth fixing. I need something that is reliable and cheap on gas - not that the sube isn't reliable, but I am kinda constantly worried with almost 260000 on the odometer. Moreso with the purple fluid I cannot figure out. Any one have ideas as to what the problem is? I am thinking head gasket, but I thought that meant oil in the coolant, not vice versa? Everything but the engine works great on the car so to go and scrap it now seems like a premature execution. . . . but like I said I don't have alot of time to be pulling engines apart and putting them back together.

Update Seeing as we have all been missing updates on problems here goes The easy out worked - I have found a carb place that has the spring I need, so alls well hopefully I can have her running soon It appears taht the problem was actually under the needle seat - so it is a good thing that I spent the time pulling it out. There appears to be alot of dirt under there and the screen is really dirty so that might explain my lack of fuel.

So I have managed to misplace a spring - does anyone have an idea where i can get another one? It is the 'plunger spring' don't know if that helps, but I am not sure how to go about finding a replacement. Thanks for all the help so far.

thanks for the info so far - I went and bought a gallon of the carb cleaning solution and am soaking the non rubber or plastic part in that for the recommended time. of course one of the stuck screws is holding a diaphram on so I still have to get that off before I can move on. ANy other thoughts on the easy out? I didn't think about the fact that it is brass - will the easy out even work or will I just tear up seat some more and dammage the threading? Oh and while I am in there should I replace the jets or is there a way to check to make sure there is nothing wrong with them? finally, should I use some sort of gasket goop when I put it back together or just put the gaskets in? Thanks

Hi all So I am taking apart my hitachi carb and cant seem to get the needle seat assembly out - I was thinking of getting one of those drill out kits where the bit will bite in and turn it out? Anyone know if that will work? I also have a few screws that won't come out - I am guessing WD40 and time are the best that I can do, but i'm open to ideas? Thanks

So I am wondering if $5700 is a good deal on this Car - It has 145000 on it, but the body and driveline seem to be in good shape. Any advice?

Of course I can afford to accelerate hard - I havn't bought the car yet. dickensheets - you say you have the same thing? Has it caused anything noticable performance wise? 1 lucky texan - so it doesn't sound like it should really worry me much, thanks for the info He wants 5700 for this car? does that sound reasonable or should I put some effort into talking him down a bit? thanks

Hi all - I am generally in the older forum, but I was looking at a 97 legacy for my girlfriend and we heard an odd whistling under hard accelleration (at least that was where I could reproduce it) initally when I first started it up I thought that there might be an exhaust leak from what I heard, but the whistling almost sounds like it is a turbo sucking up air, different from the exhaust leak I heard initially. Is this a common thing? - the guy said that the engine was standard which I don't think includes a turbo - I figure he would have mentioned that if there was one. This car is kind of high milage, about 145000, but it is a subaru, and the mileage has been highway at night - the guy said that he worked graveyard in Portland (we were in Vancouver). Any ideas as to what this might be that I am hearing? Thanks

Thanks for all the suggestions - electrical isn't that scary for me, so I should be able to handle it - will there be more problems with spfi from carb with emissions or will I be able to mount it up and it'll go? An snowman - I took a look at the manual and couldn't find anything about spfi conversion - can you give me a more direct pointer? thanks

Bump - hope something comes up for you - I am not that much of a guru I am afraid. Good Luck

Thanks for the info - I have to do a emissions test, so will they know if it will make a difference and not allow the car to pass or do I just have to try it and see - I am in Vancouver washington, so if anyone has gotten passed emissions here . . . thanks again.

Hi all I am looking for advice on what I should do. I have a hitachi in my car that the secondary is not working on. I am wondering what people think about switching to a weber, repairing the hitachi or switching to a SPFI system? What is involved in a SPFI conversion? I have found alot of information about the weber conversion, but just mentions that maybe an SPFI conversion is better than a weber conversion? Thanks

My Subaru is an 86, w/o air, but when I got it the defrost, vent, ect. switches wern't working. You might want to verify that none of them are working. If none of them are working, Check the vacuum - that was the problem with mine. It is just a thought because I took my dash apart twice trying to find the problem and it was under the hood the whole time. If you cannot switch between defrost and vent, check the vacuum - if you can, then the problem is probably closer to what everyone else is mentioning.

I thought that this was interesting, particularly the easier to work on chevy van part - I've worked on chevy vans, A sube is so much easier. Anyhow, thought someone might be interested in finding a way to relieve this guys burden of a subaru. . . . http://portland.craigslist.org/bar/83984895.html

This looked to be in pretty good shape and seeing as there seems to be a whole lot of people around portland, I thought I might point it out - alas, I don't need another car right now, but it looks like a good deal from a distance. Knowing my luck, this is a waste of time because it belongs to someone here . . . oh well. http://portland.craigslist.org/car/83633319.html

There should be a diagram under the hood that will be useful unless you put a different engine in. Under the hood of my 86 there are three labels, the far left one when facing the back of the car is a vacuum diagram - I am guessing it is the same on an 87, I could be wrong though

bump - sorry i really want to get this fixed

more info It is a hitachi feedback carb, and the problem is with the secondary throttle. This car has been sitting for about a year, but when I parked it, it worked. It appears that the primary throttle causes the secondary to open slighly at 60 degrees like haynes says it is supposed to, but then the secondary doesn't open up like you would expect. The secondary seems to be run using a vacuum that runs off a small vacue size hose that goes from the upper left of the carb to this pump (for lack of a better term) If we reach in under that pump and manually manipulate the throttle there, the car seems fine and the throttle in the car causes normal operation. However, because I cannot keep someone under the hood all the time while I am driving around to hold that open, I am going to need to find out how it works and how to fix it. Any information would be appreciated on these carbs and how they are supposed to function. I also tried blowing air in from vacuum pump that is on the secondary throttle to the carb and it seems to be blocked, and there also doesn't seem to be a whole lot of vacuum on that line when I have the car running, but I don't know if that is normal. I should stop rambling, but hopefully this is enough information for someone to know what I am talking about. ~J

So I have my Subaru back together and it runs . . . sort of. Initally it seemed ok, but the it lost power, and it doesn't respond when you step on it right away. Now, before you go an suggest a tune up. Last night I replace the plugs, wires, rotor cap and timing belts (I had them open and they had been covered with oil). This morning I replace the fuel filter and actaully put on the warm air return to the intake for the first time since I owned the car. Onto the problem. I checked all the vacuum lines and they seem to be connected correctly, but the diagram under the hood can be somwhat tricky to read. In looking at the carb, I think that it is a hitachi ?? (not sure) but there is sor of a halp and half split, front to back, then the back one has a choke like plate that is supposed to be moved by a vacuum powered valve. Sorry a don't know the correct name for it, but anyway, that choke doesn't seem to be opening for anything. we can open it by hand, and that seems to fix the problems, but it doesn't work on it's own. Any Ideas on other things to check or if it is the carb or that valve of the vacuuum to that valve would be great. I am beginning to get irratated with this mess. Thanks all. ~J PS. I am not sure what all it says in my sig, but 86, D/R manual, 1.8 OHC, carbed, hmm I think that is all that might be useful.

sorry, it's the car in the signature. It is carbed. Thanks for the info.

So, I just put the engine back in my subaru and got it running. now, I thought that I had not messed with the timing at all. However, I am not getting the response when I put the pedal down that I expect - the rpms are not going as high as I expect. I also am hearing a tick that is constant and increases with rpms. So, Ideas would be helpful. I am thinking timing, but I don't know how to adjust timing on this thing yet. if someone could point me towards a website about it or give me some sort of idea about it, that would be great. Thanks all

so the other thing that I forgot to mention was that it won't start now. Didn't think about it till now. Does that mean that there is something else wrong or could that just be the head gasket causing that?