robaru

I've had the pcv valve off before during tune ups and the ball ratttled back and forth when I shook it, so I thought it was good. Guess I'll replace it.

Hope everyone had a great holiday. Just a question about my 1987 carb'd 4x4 wagon. I'm getting some oil blown up into the air cleaner area from the hoses that vent into it. I got enough this morning that it must have sucked some through the carb and I had a pretty big loss of power. I pulled over and reved abit and it went away. But the inside of the air cleaner is spattered with oil. Is this a PCV valve problem? Any thoughts be much appreciated.

Spark plugs threaded in snug? I just spent an hour last night searching for a rattle that ended up being the silly plug.

Thats what I'm hoping.

I have a 1985 gl 4x4 D/R EA82 hitachi carb wagon that I'm working on. Cat has an O2 sensor in place but the orange wire and black connector are not connected to anything. Car has no ECU under the steering column. I'm thinkin that maybe the exhaust is not original? IF I have no ecu, were should the o2 sensor connect. Thanks for any help.

I think Edrach's post sums it up good. If you like to work on things, have a place to do it, have time to do it, and have some money to put into it then do it. What does the owner want for it?

What has been done to the motor recently with 200,000 miles on it? While subs do last really well, 200k can be pretty old if someone didn't take proper care of it. Lots of people drive them to this point, without much work done to them, then unload them because they don't want to do, or pay for the work to make them reliable again. At this point, many will sell these cars for 200-400 dollars. Its a great motor to work on, but stuff can add up fast.

There are lots of these cars out here in Oregon for sale. For a similar make and year "running" they seem to be running 500-1000 bucks. I guess it depends upon how much you want to work on it. You could easily need clutch, oil pump, timing belts ect. and that stuff could add up quick. I probably wouldn't jump on it unless it were really cheep. $200 tops for both.

Are you looking for one that needs rebuilt, or one ready to go? I have been trying to get the time to look at one out here in the gorge, 1989 turbo gl 10 with 190,000 miles. Sounds like from talking to the owner that it overheated, possibly lost the headgasket at least. I think he wants 200 buck for the car. Let me know, I'll pm you his number.

I didn't read your other post, but if adjustment of the cable didn't help, and your clutch hasn't been replaced, good chance it may need it. I just bought a clutch kit from napa for 200 bucks for a 86 ea82 that I just got.

Thanks again for the info. Motor will come out soon.

thanks for the replys. I've got the time to pull the motor, and plus it ticks pretty good, so I plan on putting a new oil pump in and cleaning out the cam oil passages, and probably put those rebuilt lifters in. I'd hate to miss the cause of the lifter knocking while its out. thanks again for the replys, I've sure learned a bunch on this site.

Thanks for the reply. I'll pull the motor. Air conditioning stuff? Can I just set it aside still all hooked up, or does it have to be unhooked, evacuated?

Probably be the right time to take care of the lifter noise also. So most people pull the motor?

Well, I'm looking at putting a new clutch kit in a 1986 gl 4x4 carb wagon. The car is new to me, looks good, ticks abit, but has great compression all around. I've read abit on this site about just pulling the motor forward to get access to the clutch. Whats best. Car has 150k. I have done one swap of the ea-82 before, but never messed with the clutch. Any advise would be great.

Oh man did I miss out. I was going home from work friday night and saw a lifted brat in hood river and thought, hey, havent seen one of those in town. Now I find out I missed out on all of this. Is this an annual event? Nice brat by the way.

Seems like the rebuild kit was around 30 bucks, and a rebuilt carb runs $220 or so with core charge.

Your sub should have one or two fans that pull air through the radiator to cool it. One usually is attached to the water pump. It spins with a belt. You probably had to take it off to get the new radiator in. The other fan usually sets off to the side. It has no belts going to it, just wires. It is your electric fan. To check it, unplug the wires that attach to the thermostat, a little round plug that screws in to the radiator on the lower right motor side, and put a jumper wire connecting both of the sides of the plug together. If you did this right, the fan if working should come on when you turn the key on. All the thermostat does is kick on when the temp in the radiator reaches a certain temp. Then it lets electricity get to the electric fan which helps bring down the temp. The actual locations of this stuff may vary for different models. If we knew your model that may help. I'm not sure if only models with ac or turbo had the electric fans, or if they came on all. Water pump may be another item.

Thanks for the reply. So the heads are specific. Bummer.

Are the heads from ea82t the same as a carburated ea82. Found a 1988 dl wagon turbo for cheep with what sounds like head problems, and I have heads off of a 87 gl carb.

I just pulled my ac off on a 1987 gl wagon. Every thing came out pretty easily except the cooling radiator like screen. I had to bend a couple of the metal tabs on the screen to get it out from the motor side. I love having the compressor out of the way for getting to the spark plugs. Much more open.

Thanks for the reply. Come to think of it, I may not have adjusted the pick-up coil base plate right. That is the plate that rotates with the vacume advance. And guess I'll put new gaskets on the oil pump. sure would have been easier to do it when the engine was out. Live and learn. Thanks again for the good advice. The fuel pressure was not running, and it was 3-4 psi.

Well I compression tested it last night. 140-150 psi on all. I played with the timing again to try to get rid of the lag on accelleration. Is it normal for there to be about a 5 degree change in timing at idle when the vacume advance is unplugged? Also, how far should full advance be. The dial ends at 20 BTDC I think, is full advance beyond that? I appreciate the help. I can't seem to find this in the manual.

Thanks for the help. I'll go test the coil. I just got home, and the clicking sound didn't start again until about 4 miles. Still no loss of power, but noisy. When I did the motor swap I pulled the oil pump off to look at the gaskets. I've read on this site about having to put new gaskets on due to air leaking by and making the hydralic lifters noisy? Hopefully that is the noise.

So would a coil going cause the poor midrange accleration?