gravitate

It was running when wrecked. I wonder if a compression check would be good enough to figure it out for sure. I have another couple heads from my old motor I could throw on. Do you guys bother with getting new head bolts like the manual says or just use the old ones

Hi guys. So I'm looking to purchase a ej22 that came out of a car that was in a 25mph rear ender where the truck bumper went in far enough to break the cam pulley completely. I'm having a hard time finding a good engine here in Colorado so when I saw this for 300 bux and only 112k miles on it I thought this would be a good deal. Do you think the impact could have hurt the cam itself? Its a 97 ej22 so it is a interference engine but the timing is still on or at least that's how it would seem.

Ok, so do you let the ultra grey dry before you tighten completely or just tighten righy away?

You nailed it. Super leaky oil separator and the rear main was fine. Damn plastic parts. Luckily I have a spare aluminum one. Any suggestions on what to use to seal it? Rtv black maybe?

So I finally got to try the car out and Wow what a difference this clutch is compared to all the other Subi cable clutches I've ever tried. It is way easier than my 91 but its just a bit harder than my 99. Although I feel it can improve a bit with some lube. So thank god I won't be going hydro now. I will be replacing the clutch though just for piece of mind and because I have to do the rear main seal anyways. Does anyone have any preferences on which clutch to get. I'll want to get one at Autozone, Orielly, Advanced or Pep boys because of the price being around the same. Anyone better than the other or maybe less stiffer than the other?

Yeah the 96 was way way stiffer. On my 91 subaru I had 2 different clutches with no difference, both stiff. The pedal spring broke at one point and I replaced it and no difference. I bought a 96 outback today but I havent picked it up yet, kinda sight unseen. I just thought because of all subis I tried with cable clutches sucking, that I would do the research but maybe I'll get lucky and mine will be easy. I'll know in a couple days.

Wow thats good to hear. Hard to believe considering what I've tried but I guess there is hope. I had a 91 legacy that was hard as hell. I changed the clutch and the cable twice with no luck. I had another 96 that was equally as hard to push. I've worked on many of my friends cars and they were all hard but not as bad as my 91. Every hydro including my 99 is like stepping on butter. So easy that I thought the clutch was out when I first tried this 99. What's everyone else's experience?

Great info thanks guys. I drove a Subaru with a cable for 9 years and I believe it has contributed to a serious lower back/hip issue I have because of how hard it was to push and because of my stop and go job I pushed it a ton. I went to a 99 with hydraulic and I enjoy driving again. I will be installing a new clutch anyways so the main work will be easy. I plan on removing the abs system because I absolutely hate abs and when I remove the pump I have room for a big auxiliary battery for a power inverter. I'll then put a brake master cylinder and front brake lines on from a non abs legacy. That's the current setup I have on my 99 and I love it. I'll then take the pivit and cable from a 04 Forester xt so I can have a hydraulic clutch with hill holder. A days work for all of this but totally worth it to me. Call me crazy

Hi folks. I've got a 96 Outback with a 2.2 and I'm wanting to put a hydraulic clutch in. I'm aware that I'll need a master and slave cylinder and a hydraulic fork but what else? What do I need for the pedal box? Also I'm told that the 3.90 trannys have a different pivot point than a 4.11 so does the 3.90 of that year have the option to screw the pivot stud into a different position or do I need to tap it? Any help would be great.

Ive used a dental pick top clean the threads but its still pretty jacked up. Best I can tell is that it's either a 22 x1.50 or a 25 x 1.50 so I don't think a spark plug is anywhere near that size. I replaced it the first time cause my speedometer stopped working after flying down a rather bumpy road. The little blade that turns on the speed sensor had broken loose inside the sensor. The new one did the same thing after 2 weeks or so. I'm wondering if I just didn't get it screwed in far enough because the threads were screwed up, if thats the case then maybe it wasn't fully seated and that broke the blade. I check so see if part that turns the sensor was loose or something but its all tight so I'm not sure what else it could be.

Oh I see. Would hope to avoid that but if all else fails Ill give it a try. The old sensor was a warranty thing so I don't have it but it was aluminum threads anyways so that probably wouldn't have worked for a tap.

Well I can fix the threads on the sensor but the threads on the tranny are my problem.

I stripped my speed sensor thread on the tranny of my 96 outback manual. I'm putting a new one in but the first 2 rows of threads are knarled up on the tranny. Does anyone know what thread size that is so I can get a tap? Or at the very least a bolt that fits in there that I can fake it with. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

The car is absolutely spotless underneath as I replaced all the seals when I did the engine swap. Not even the slightest residue so I know for sure it isn't leaking out. As far as that oil O ring goes, if the seal is bad then it just shoots more oil up thru the PCV valve correct? I thought there was a problem somewhere because the PCV looked oily so I installed a oil catch can about 10 to 15k ago. I modified it so the inlet fitting had a tube that would go to the bottom of the can and into steel wool. My thoughts were that if the oil was getting misted then the steel wool would reduce that. So far I have collected maybe 6 to 8 ounces of oil. So unless the oil is still somehow getting past that I don't think it's that. I have used Marvel and Seafoam to clean the engine (even though it looked clean enough to eat off of inside) so I'm not thinking it's the rings and as well as the lady took care of it I don't know why the rings would be bad. Thanks again everyone for the thoughts.

So the leakdown test concluded that the engine is in pretty damn good condition. I looked at the valve seals from the exhaust side and they are super clean as are the ports. The spark plugs are also super clean. So my conclusion is that it's not the engine that is causing the oil to burn. It has to be the Intake Manifold or something. I'm somehow getting oil mist or something back into my intake and it's burning it clean. I'm at a complete loss.

I bought the engine out of a T-boned car that a 80 year old lady drove. It had only 120 some K on it. Inside the valve cover the engine looks brand spanking new and there is absolutely no tarnish whatsoever. It has great compression and runs like a top. It doesn't leak a drop of oil whatsoever. It does however use a quart of oil every 400 miles or so. I have replaced the PCV valve and that didn't help. I have tried cleaners and that hasn't helped. I know the Valve stem seals don't really ever cause issues but my guess is that sinse the car has set for years in the dry mountains of Colorado that the seals have likely cracked. After posting this I did a little more research and the common belief is that if it doesn't smoke on start up then the seals are probably good. It doesn't smoke at all so now I'm wondering what it is. I'm about to do a crude leak down test in a minute here so hopefully that will tell me something more. My last motor I had put in here did the exact same thing but it eventually started smoking. So I'm also wondering if something with the EGR valve is causing the problem. I have a egr intake on a non egr motor. I hooked the egr up to a vacuum hose so I don't get a code. Never had a egr code on this motor or the last exept for 2 minutes after I left the emmisions place, now I have that code. Weird huh. Thanks for the help ya'll

I have a 99 OBW that I've done a 2.2 swap in. I'm needing to replace the valve stem seals and I was wondering if anyone has ever done this job in the car? I figure I have a little more room to do so with if be a ej22 so I hope I can do it.

I'm thinking the amount of pressure coming from the case is causing oil to shoot up that tube so I'm thinking I should put a oil catch can before my pcv. Anyone ever great of a oil catch can with a oil return so it returns the oil automatically?

Just picked one up from napa. Will update results in 300 miles. Thanks for your help guys

Yep, they worked just fine too

Yep. Tubes are clean

I also just realized that I had used the EGR tube (plastic tube coming from motor) from my old motor so it is actually this that is caked with grime. When I look down into the engine it is very clean looking but I can still tell that oil is coming up thru there. I noticed there is a good bit of pressure coming up from that tube, probably equal if not more than the suction coming from the EGR. I also noticed that I get no suction or pressure going to the valve cover breather tubes but maybe this is normal?

So it's been a while since I hooked up the EGR hose. It is actually hooked up to the IAC hose like it's supposed to be. So I'm back where I started. I didn't change the pan seal or the separator plate because they were not leaking at all. Any other ideas? If the oil separator is the culprit would it hurt to pour a bottle of Seafoam in thru the PVC hose from the engine?

There is build up inside the crank vent hose. Is there a way to clean the oil separator without removing the engine? The PCV is working great. I took it out and blew thru it fine then turned it around and no air gets thru.

I have a 99 Outback Wagon 5spd that I did a 2.2 swap in. The engine was out of a 94 legacy. The engine only has 125k miles on it driven by a 80 yr old grandma. The engine looks absolutely brand new inside the valve covers with no tarnish or dark residue at all. Ive got 135 to 150 psi per cylinder. Problem is I'm using about a quart of oil between fill ups. Had this problem on my last engine too and thats why I changed it. This is the driest engine I've ever seen without a single leak. It doesn't smoke either so wheres all the oil going? Not in the coolant I know. I checked the PCV valve and it works great, but the hose that comes up to the valve from the case has a good bit of fresh oil in it. I'm thinking I'm misting the oil somehow and it's burning up and not smoking. Ive done many 2.2 swaps before with no problem. What makes this different is that I took a intake manifold off a 95 with a egr and hooked it up to this engine. I took the big hose that goes from the egr to the engine and instead hooked it up to the hose right below the PCV (the hose with the oil in it.) I just made a "T" connector to splice this in so besides that it is just the way it is stock. I did this to create the vacuum the pcv requires to not throw a CEL code. So my question is do you think that this is whats causing oil to get into my intake or do you have any other ideas? Based on other my google searches I see that many people have this problem with other cars so I'm also hoping any answer may help others figure their problems out too. Any help would be greatly appreciated.