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gravitate

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Everything posted by gravitate

  1. Hmm thats a good thought about the new engine but I'm pretty sure it's not that. The engine I took out had 180+ compression on all cylinders so just about good as new. I'm just wondering if re-torquing will actually do anything or not. If the clutch disc is was creates most of the torque when you initially torque it down then if the clutch has already been engaged it's essentially like the the disc has been freed and so how would retorquing it actually fix things? Does that make sense? I will try but man thats gonna suck if it doesn't work and I have to take it out again.
  2. Not sure if the injectors will interchange. The Oil Pressure sensor is right above the Crank Sensor and just below the alternator. It's kind of funny but I've had a bad wire that cause misfires followed by a bad injector, followed by water getting in my spark plug hole and finally followed by power steering fluid leaking and filling my number one spark plug hole, all of which happened within a couple months and all of which created a random misfire like you describe. My gut feeling is it's probably a bad wire.
  3. My 99 was doing this in Oregon last month and it happened to be raining the entire time I was there. Turned out it was a fuel injector. I figure it might have been cracked and condensation got inside. Maybe pull each injector wire off when it happens again to see if you notice a change. If not it may be that cylinder. Check that cylinders spark plug wire too. Also check your connection on your crank sensor. I have had the oil pressure sensor leak onto that sensor and cause problems.
  4. I put in a new excedy clutch in my 96 outback along with a new updated throwout bearing and metal snout sleeve (for smoother clutch action and to prevent clutch chatter). It worked perfectly with no noticeable chatter and it was the smoothest clutch I had ever had. That week my engine decided to throw a bearing. I rebuilt the engine and threw it back in my car. Now I get chatter and the whole car vibrates when I engine brake into 2nd or first gear. I made sure that I cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate thoroughly before I put it back in. I do think I made a mistake though. It was late and I was very tired when I put the clutch in. When I looked at the book for specs it said to tighten the pressure plate down in a circle pattern. I thought that was odd because I've always crisscross tightened everything down on all previous clutches but I decided to do the circular pattern. I looked at the book again today and it said to finger tighten everything in a circular pattern then crisscross everything to torque so you don't distort the pressure plate. So I figure I must have distorted it. Did I completely ruin it or can I just re-tighten everything the proper way?
  5. K thanks. It's funny because on permatex website it says to wait an hour but if you download the instructions from there, they say not to wait.
  6. I am in the process of rebuilding my EJ22 and I used Ultra Grey on the case halves. I just smeared it on thin and slapped the halves together and tightened right away. I tightened right away because thats what the instructions said online a couple places. I was just on the permatex site to see if it would work good on my oil pan and I happened to see their instructions say to install bolts finger tight and let sit for 1 hour then tighten to torque. Now I'm concerned. What do you think? Will it leak? I would have just used three bond but at $60 a tube I couldn't afford it.
  7. I would make sure that it actually is draining good despite what the dealer says. Open it up and pour water into that tray and make sure it doesn't back up. There are 2 drains on it, one on each side, so park on a level surface to make sure they both drain.
  8. Ive worked on a car that did this and it turned out to be the Mass Air Flow Sensor. It wasn't cracked either and looked clean. Figured it out by having someone crank it over when it wasn't starting then I tapped on the square part of the sensor with the handle of a screw driver and it started right up.
  9. I did use gas with no luck. Ill try sand paper I guess. This kit I bought for my rebuild has Topline head gaskets and they look identical to oem as far as material goes. Any thoughts on if I should use them or go oem?
  10. Arizona particularly Phoenix is the best place Ive found for rust free cars by far but subis in Arizona are not as popular as it is here in Colorado.
  11. So I got my crank back from the machine shop and they said after polishing it that it was well within spec but after putting the halves together and fully torquing everything my plastigauge reading on my all 5 main bearings are at .002. From what I see from what the manual says, that reading means I'm definitely out of spec. The shop said they think I might have the same issue if they grind the crank because if it was already in spec before they grind it. What do you guys think? Is .002 for my mains bad? The Rods are .0015
  12. I'm rebuilding my engine and I got my heads resurfaced and my block cleaned by a shop but residue still remains on the block. I have taken a scotch brite pad and brake cleaner and tried to clean it up better but its not budging. My question is can I get by without it being a mirror-like finish. Will it be good enough as it is in the picture? I can't feel any gasket, almost like the block is stained. EJ22 motor. Head gaskets were fine before the rebuild.
  13. I haven't seen many Coil Packs fail on these so it's probably a wire or plug. Start with pulling the spark plug wire for each cylinder while the engine is running. If the engine speed changes move on to the next and do that with each cylinder until you don't notice the engine speed change. Thats your problem cylinder. Hold that wire close to a grounded metal part on your vehicle and see if your spark jumps. If it does jump then its your spark plug or your injector. If it doesnt jump then remove the spark plug wire for that cylinder from your coil pack and hold it as close to that now open port on your coil and see if the spark jumps. If it doesn't then it's you pack, if it does then it's your plug wire. If your wire checks out try removing the injector wire and plug it back in and wiggle it to see if that helps it. If it doesn't, pull your plug to make sure it isn't gummed up. If it's not , make sure you have compression in that cylinder. If so move to the injector. My guess is its your wire. Although on my 99 I recently had a cylinder missing. Turns out my power steering pump was leaking and the fluid was pooling in my spark plug hole and the spark was grounding thru that. Good Luck.
  14. Yeah 235s should rub but also take into account that your Steel rims you want are 41+ offset if I'm not mistaken and stock Outback wheels seem to be between 55 and 48 depending on the year. So that would put your tire even closer to the strut.
  15. From what I have noticed tires can be nearly the same width even though the numbers are different and that seems to be based on the wheel size. Check out this tire calculator I found. Just remember that if 215 65 16s fit perfectly just compare that to whatever other size you might want. https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=205-70r16-215-65r16
  16. Well one head was stuck on for a day and after soaking it over night and beating it carefully over and over I finally got it off. Seems that the alignment sleeve got rusted and that got rusted to the bolt. Thats actually what happened on the other side too but unfortunately that broke off inside the motor. I'm wondering if the gasket leaked and allowed moisture up in there cause otherwise I'm not sure how water would get up in there. I found that I definitely have a bad bearing in that motor though so I'm just gonna trash it and put the heads on my rebuild. I'm really quite amazed at how easy it is to rebuild these things now that I've got one split. I'm actually enjoying the process. I just hope I didn't screw up the head somehow beating it so much. I beat on the corners where there is about a half inch of non mating surface.
  17. No play in anything I can see or get my hands on but I'm also doing this thru the oil pan so I can't get ahold of the number 1 rod. I'm assuming it's my number one rod bearing. Lots of shiny metal flakes
  18. Pulled the engine today and popped off the oil pan and there was a ton of huge shavings. Not sure if it was rod or main bearings but something took a crap. I can't believe it was still running
  19. Yeah I feel like they must have been over torqued because they were a bitch even with a breaker bar. There was a lot of pressure behind them because everyone made a pssshhh sound and let off some horible smelling gass or something when I finally got them to break loose but I don't know maybe thats normal. But the heads look great. I was about to get a set of bolts online, are the cheaper ones really that bad?
  20. Well dang I just tried taking the heads off that 97 engine to put on my rebuild motor and 2 head bolts broke off in the motor. So much for using the head bolts or that motor again.
  21. My 1st engine must have been ran hard cause it used 1 quart per fill up and eventually smoked. The Second one was driven by a 80 year old lady from day one until it got t boned. It is the one I'm rebulding and it still has the crosshatches so it probably just didn't get broke in properly and she lived in the mountains so it was put under immediate hard use, it also used a quart per fill up. The third one was in a front end collision and who knows what happened to it but it has a knock but 180 compression on all cylinders (check out my video in the post "ej22 rod knock or piston slap"). Just seems to be my bad luck I guess.
  22. Cool. How about the compression ratio, will it be the same or do I lose any power? And does that make my engine interference?
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