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I apologize if this response double or triple posts, having internet issues. For over a year I had the same issues as you with the same code along with a knock sensor code. It was less frequent though. I replaced the cracked knock sensor but what did the trick was actually replacing the Neutral Safety Switch on the side of my transmission (5spd). From what I understand, that NSS shares the same circuit as the IAC. It makes sense too if its dying when or right after you push in on the clutch if you have one. So I would try that if the IAC doesn't work. Good luck

Im pretty sure the switch on the pedal is just for cruise control. My 96 and 99 have a neutral safety switch on the driver side of the transmission so I assume that yours would as well. The switch is a 2 wire round screw in switch thats next to the backup switch that is identical except the backup connector is brown and the Neutral is grey. Those switch connectors are on a bracket on either the passenger top engine to tranny bolt or right above it on the engine hoist loop bolt. Had to replace mine last week although the code was different but it came up as a neutral safety switch. (actually it came up as a IAC but the NSS threw it)

Yep I have the module. I was trying to find them locally. I can get the other manufacture fobs pretty easy for $20 locally. Last time I checked ebay they were 70 and thats a bit much for me to spend.

I have a 96 Legacy Outback that I am wanting to get a key fob for. The key fob I need seems to be a goh-m24. I'm having a hard time finding one for a Subaru but I noticed that same model number is what Mitsubishi, Ford, Chrysler and a couple others use. Has anyone ever programmed one of those for a Subaru?

If the knock sensor plug doesn't fit, you can take a needle or safety pin and pull the wire while depressing the inner white tab of the spade connector and the plug will come off. Then it will plug right into the new one. Early 90s have a single wire plug and older 90s have a duel wire plug but with just one wire in it.

You may have to use a punch on the washer where the indent is on your rack shaft or whatever you call it. There are some washers that have 2 tabs already bent in that you need to line up with that shaft and not have to worry about a punch. I have had many aftermarket washer tabs ending up being too wide and they don't fit in the slot. If this is the case just take a pair of dikes and trim off a bit on the sides of the tabs, or use a grinder if you have one. No grease needs to be added to the boot. You can use zip ties to hold the boot on. FYI it can be a PTA to get that boot on sometimes. Not sure about the torque but I just tighten it by feel. Doesn't seem to be a whole lot as you can probably tell by how little it takes to get it off. Getting the tie rod end on in the same position as the old one can be challenging. The thread count isn't a proper way of telling because the thread count can be the same but where the thread starts can be a half a turn off, if that makes sense. And manufactures can make the whole rod a fraction of a inch off. Best way to do it in my opinion is to take a tape measure and have someone hold the end in a center groove of the front of your tire and measure the distance to the edge of the center groove on the opposite tire. If you are sure that you have the proper toe in now then that will be good enough. If not, you will want to measure the same way but on the back of the tire. The front of the tire is supposed to be 1/8" narrower than the back. I would just go ahead and do your toe in if you can because it's pretty easy. Over all its a easy job. Hardest part can be getting the lock nut off. A monkey wrench can be your friend here.

The wire marked ANT wire is power for your power antenna but there is still a 1/4 inch thick wire that plugs into your deck that is the actual antenna wire.

I would replace it but that just me. I've replaced many and never had one leak that I know of but I do understand everyone's concern. The inner lip of the seal can leave a very slight groove on the crankshaft especially when you have a lot of miles. If you don't install the seal at the exact same depth as the original it can cause it to leak if its rubbing against the groove wrong. If the seal is flush with the seal housing lip then it's pretty easy to get it done properly if you have a flat piece of wood like a 2x4. Just keep going around it until your 2x4 is bottoming out on the engine. If it's recessed a bit you can use a PVC coupler that is the same size but if it's recessed then I just install it flush as long as the mating surface is smooth. If there is crust built up on shaft surface I use very light pressure with a green scotchbrite pad and some brake cleaner to get it smooth. Just make sure to clean out the seal area really good to get any grit out of there.

Yeah that definitely sounds like rear cam seal o-ring.

Awesome. How do the heating elements fit in these seats? Another words can I just put the elements into my current 91 seats or are they embed into the foam? How are these seats compared to older style? Do they hold up as well? Do they have heat? How much are you asking? I'm currently out in Calhan

I think it's pretty important myself. I think all clutch kits without flywheel won't warranty it if you don't get a new or resurfaced flywheel. If you are even considering not resurfacing it just make sure that you don't have any weird discoloration on the FW like blue spots which means it got too hot. Also if your clutch has uneven wear then you can bet your FW has issues too. If it's even slightly damaged you can get clutch chatter which sucks. I had clutch chatter so bad on one clutch I did that the clutch disc eventually separated from the spline and left me stranded in the freezing winter on a mountain. No fun.

Dang Bushwick, that's a bit of work! I was considering doing something similar because I wanted to keep the heat option. Don't suppose you took any pictures of the process did ya? What is the center back adjustment that you speak of? Is that the lumbar lever? My seats from the 91 had that.

I did that with my 99 and 96 outbacks with a seats from 91 legacy. I know they interchange from a 90 to 99 and that includes legacy and Legacy outback. Maybe later years work too but I'm not sure. I would go for the adjustable height seats from 90 to 94 because the ones after that seem to wear a lot easier. If you can find the grey moleskin style seats they last for well into the 200k 300k range

If you can afford it I would say go for it. I found a Exedy Clutch kit online for 150 shipped and it cost me $25 to get the flywheel resurfaced. If you are going thru the effort of taking the engine out and removing the flywheel anyways then why not? If a aging clutch has and signs of issues it's definitely time to replace it. That being said I have reused a clutch when I was in a pinch. If you can still see the grooves in the clutch and there is no uneven wear or hot spots on the pressure plate or flywheel then you could probably get by with it. I just did the same work to my 99 with all the seals, clutch and that dang oil separator plate. BTW make sure not to use too much sealant on that plate.

From what I've noticed on my vehicle it seams that the white stuff is from either water corrosion or the sealant used by the factory or dealership. The dealership said they use a white teflon paste/sealant on the threads and I've noticed it on quite a few parts on my Subarus. If you have a wire brush on a dremmel tool it works excellent on getting the old stuff off. As long as there is no rust I wouldn't replace the bolts. On my recent engine rebuild I used ultra grey on certain threads and on my oil pan and it works good. Although if I was close to a big town I would have purchased Hondabond or Yamabond from a dealearship. It is the same thing as threebond (what subaru recommends instead of ultra grey). But it's a fraction of the price of threebond. I would however recommend anerobic gasket maker on oil pumps for the reason that it won't get hard and brake loose in your system. That spring that you saw sits on the back side of the seal, same thing on the cam seals.Your new seals will have them on them. . You can also take off the seal housing on the cam seals which are held in with a few bolts on each side. There are big o-rings on the back side of those as well so replace them too if you go that route. You get the seals on more flush this way too but it's easier to not take all that off. I just use a small screw driver and hammer it into the seal and pry it out. Just make sure not to face the blade towards the shaft. I never use sealants on my valve gaskets and I never have leaks. All the gaskets I have bought said not to use sealants. I just clean the surfaces real good with brake cleaner and a green scotchbrite pad with light pressure.

I had one have problems like that but it was indeed a vacuum leak. I couldn't hear or feel it though. It was on the back side of the actuator right where the hose connects. There was a small crack at the very edge of the nipple. But it sounds like it could also be your neutral safety switch. There was a issue with the NSS washers being too thick. I've hear of people having luck with either shaving the washer down real thin or buying a new one that's thinner. One person mentioned on a thread that he used a .030 copper washer and it fixed his problem. Good luck

I agree, if it's got power then doesn't when you turn the key, it's just a loose battery cable. I would see if you can twist the terminals. If they feel tight I would take them off and either throw some coca cola on there or baking soda and wire. That'll clean them up good.

When I notice that wiggle it usually comes from the inner tie rod and that happens mostly after the boot has ripped and contaminants get in there. The last couple that went out on me I got about 300 to 500 miles on it before my wheels started shaking to much for me to want to drive anymore, but I was also driving on some horrible Back roads and on twisty mountain roads so that probably made them go quicker. I have seen them last longer though. I've never had my inner ones go out on me so I don't know on how long you have on them.

Great post man! I am going to do this setup with 215 65 16s when I get some extra cash. I did lots of research on this but I never saw anything saying the rear sway bar links wouldn't work,do you know any that will?

Yeah thats what I thought about the wear but I ended up calling Exedy back and emailed them the pictures and they said if I only have 500 miles on it that it is just normal wear for the break in period and that it is normally a little shiny when they are new and the rougher looking spots are wear. He noticed that it looked like there was grease stains on the disc coming from the center. I inspected it again and sure enough there was very faint amount of residue on there. Seems that I over greased the input shaft or something and the centrifugal force shot it out onto my disc.. I cleaned it up, barely greesed the shaft and slapped it back on. Works great now.

So do you have any juice at all when you jump it? Does your lights come on? If not, check your fusible link thingy in your fuse box under the hood. Its just a small 2 inch black wire at the front of the box. If that is blown then you will have no juice at all anywhere.

So I took it out today and I notices one of the Pressure plate fingers had a noticeable wear from the throw out bearing. So that might explain the clutch chatter. I checked the PP and the Flywheel for straightness and they are both fine. Neither of those had any noticeable wear or hot spots, look new. But the disc does have some odd wear. I noticed this same kind of wear when I took this out the first time (before the clutch chatter) but I thought it might be normal but now. What do you think? Dull spots are the wear and shiny is the new.

I put a new clutch in when I put a engine in but it had a knock so I rebuilt one and put it in there. So the clutch has only a few hundred on it. The allignment pins only allow it to install in one position. I'm wandering if I hit one of the pressure plate splines when I was installing it. Gonna take it out again tomorrow and check it out. Oh and I ended up calling excedy and they called BS on what the dealer said.

My 90 had 333k on it when I sold it and it had originals with no issues at all.

I machined it when I first put it in. I called the subaru performance parts shop I bought it from and they basically told me that I'm screwed and the reason its chattering is because I resurfaced my flywheel and that Subaru only uses new flywheels because of this reason. Something about the tolerance being off (even though I told them it was within spec). I call BS on that. I called a Subaru Service Department in Colorado Springs and they said they always resurface flywheels.