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I just realized if I'm rebuilding a 94 with dual port heads it won't fit my current setup with a single port exhaust. Anyone know if single port heads from a 97 interference engine will work on a 94 non interference block?

Oh I thought it did. hmmm. Well dang

Besides I don't know if I can trust the advice of someone who drives a Ford Explorer

Well I'm pretty sure it's not something good that would make that much of a knocking noise. If its piston slap and it still slaps that bad even after it warms up I doubt I would have that good of compression. I was about to go on a road trip to Arizona yesterday but that noise got me worrying. I wouldn't want to get out there and have it completely fail on me especially since I live in my car, that would extra suck. I figure if I rebuild something I would feel a whole lot better about it.

I found a ring, gasket, and bearing set for 282 shipped. It's Topline Rings and gaskets and I forget the bearing brand something like TCS. Anyone heard of either of those or if they're any good? a valve job would be 175 and an extra 60 if I get my heads resurfaced but I doubt I'll need that. Engine cleaning is 60 and crank polish is 25. So it looks like I can do what needs to be done for around 550 which is better than I thought it would be but thats assuming that Topline is good and I don't need something else. Now I know there is a big debate on whether or not to use OEM head gaskets on 2.5s but I wonder if it matters on the 2.2 seeming as how they aren't as problematic as 2.5s. Any thoughts?

I have the earlier version like you would find on a 90 legacy. I inspected yesterday with the cover off and engine running and its tight.

I have bought 3 engines from 3 wrecked cars. 1 from a junk yard I couldn't hear running, one from a car I did hear running and one from a car I didn't hear running but did a compression check on before buying (hooking up a big drill to crank bolt) and all 3 engines were junk. All 3 had between 112 and 124k on them. I really don't want to do this for fun but I really can't afford to keep buying crap engines.

So It looks like my current engine has a rod knock so I am planning on doing a rebuild. I am rebuilding a ej22 from a 94 that got tboned with 135k on it. It used about 1 quart of oil every fill up. I took the heads off and the cylinder walls still clearly have cross hatch patterns in them so my guess is the motor didn't get broke in properly. So I plan on doing my first rebuild. I assume I just need rings and bearings and seals. I see a bunch of different prices online and I'm not sure whats considered good and what not. Does anyone have a recommendation? I'm on a budget so I'm not wanting any high end set. Also I'm wondering if anyone has a ball park on what it will cost to get the valves done along with valve stem seals and whatever work may need to be done to the crank plus my block will need a hot bath. I have the tools to hone the cylinders myself. Thanks

Did the oil filter and found nothing in the filter itself but I did find a few flakes at the bottom of the filter housing. I don't know whats considered a normal amount of metal particles but I assume that these flakes were to big for normal. Ugh thats the 3rd used engine in a row that I got screwed on.

From my research I think 215 65 16 is the max. That's what I'm getting tomorrow for my 96. From what I've heard 225s rub

I bought a EJ22 that came out of a 97 Impreza in a front end collision. The impact broke the driver side cam shaft pulley (all five finger broke) but it didn't throw it out of time so I don't think I screwed up the valves. I did a compression check and all cylinders are at 180 to 185. I adjusted all the valves. The motor has 112k on it and it sure drives like it. If it wasn't for this knock this would be the best running ej22 I've ever seen. When I start it up I sometimes hear 3 or 4 rapid knocks then it quits. When I rev it up I hear it and when I am at around 3k while driving it it's almost constant. I pulled the timing cover and everything is tight in there including the tensioner pulley. I've driven it probably around 400 or 500 miles since I dropped it in my Outback and it's been the same since then.. What do y'all think? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yWM_PFqgBs

I know these things hardly ever have valve guide seal issues but thats worth a thought. If your exhaust guides are leaking it would not foul your plugs it would just drain down to the cat where it would get burned. Maybe undo your exhaust and look up into the ports to see if there is oil there

Hey there. I just dealt with this yesterday on my 96. Luckily it was easy to get the code and easy to fix. Turns out one of my connectors for the srs wasn't connected totally. Check out this page, should have the info you needhttp://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1744926. Once you figure out your code just Google it like this. Subaru srs code 43. That should give you the info you need. There are different style connectors based on the year you have. Mine looks like the one in this video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g1K7PqhmDW8. I assume yours is the same. Good luck

I was getting on here to post the same question about my outback when I saw this. I was wondering if a 215 65 16 would fit on my stock 96 Legacy Outback. Anyone know?

Yeah I've had many new clutches but even new clutches don't feel this good. This setup with the sleeve was on it and it was already the easiest cable clutch I had ever tried before I put a new one on. Even if it was bone dry I feel that a throwout bearing will ride much smoother on a perfectly round stainless steel sleeve vs a worn aluminum shaft. Keeping my fingers crossed though. Also the Bearing is sealed so even after it brakes in it wont squeak like my other ones always do.

I decided to put in a new clutch in this car and when I opened it up I noticed it had a stainless steel sleeve that went over the transmission snout. I guess they put them on if your snout is all chewed up or worn from your throw out bearing. So that explains why it was a lighter feeling pedal compared to all the other ones I've tried. The inner sleeve to the throw out bearing is plastic and after closer inspection I could tell it was cracked causing it to not slide as freely as it should. I called up the company and they got me a new one and a updated sleeve. I installed it and when I pushed on the pedal I can literally feel no difference between a clutch pedal without a cable connected and the clutch. It is the easiest clutch I've ever tried on any vehicle. I highly recommend that sleeve kit that Tranquil from PDMUSA.com sells. No more clutch shudder.

Hey I just dealt with this on my subi and my friends. Both of them snapped off. I tried drilling one out but got off center so I said F it and replaced the knuckle with a junk yard one. On my car it snapped and the CV axle got stuck in it so I just replaced that knuckle too. It's a pretty damn easy job. I have had one drilled thru and put a nut on it and it was good. One thing to note if you are doing this is to make sure you get the old bolt drilled out on center because not only does that pinch bolt pinch the BJ but it also sits inside that groove on the BJ and it holds it in place, so if you are off center it you wont catch the groove.

Looks like a 91 to 95 non abs front wheel drive SVX will work. It has 4 ports and 1 1/16 bore so It would be identical to the stock system if I plug that bottom back port. Problem is that car is RARE with that setup and not even the dealer stocks it.

I have a 96 Legacy Outback that I decided to take the ABS system out of to give me more control and make space for a auxiliary battery. Couple years ago I swapped everything over from a 91 Legacy to my 99 Outback wagon and it worked but the pedal has always felt like there was some air in the system. I bench bled it twice and bled the car a million times and nothing improved it. I figured it was just the rubber lines expanding or something and have lived with it ever since. Today I was switching everything over from a 93 to my 96 outback when I noticed that the size of the bore is stamped on the master cylinder. Turns out my Outbacks come with a 1 1/16 inch bore and the Legacys come with a 1 inch bore. I believe Legacys have 1 piston calipers and the Outbacks have 2. So my questions are: 1 Do you think that the 1/16 inch bigger bore makes the difference and would give me a hard pedal again? 2 If so does anyone know of any 1 1/16 inch Subaru Master Cylinder that has the same line locations as the one in the picture? If not then maybe a master cylinder with lines in all 4 locations and I'll just plug one. I've seen about 5 different combinations of Master cylinders on Legacies and Outbacks so I hope there's the right combo out there. I have a hill holder so one line goes there. My 0utback Master Cylinders have just the 2 side ports and not the bottom so I guess my last resort could be to have someone tap that bottom left port for me. They would also have to press in the brass piece that the brake line flange bottoms out on. I'm not even sure who would even do that here in Colorado. Any help would be great. Thanks

I had the same thing happen with my 99 when I swapped. There was a small crack in the knock sensor. But you said you replaced it so my next thought could be what happened on my 91 when I swaped engines. The single blade that is in one side of the connector for the knock sensor got pushed out the back a little so it never seated in the other connector. Just a thought

I have a 99 outback and from what I was told 98 and 99 are the exact same part numbers vs 97 or 00. Mine didn't come with a rear cat o2 sensor. So I think just a single will work

Bulb is 7440 or 7443 from what I can tell

It had enough force to break that pulley clean and the plate that the tensioner pulley, tensioner, and idler pulley bolt up to was also cracked and that caused the tensioner pulley to push over and back into the crank cog causing the timing tab to break off. It didnt look good at all. But I threw another cam pulley on and put the belt back on, hooked up a big rump roast drill to the crank bolt and did a compression check and all 4 cylinders jumped up to 175 to 180 right away. I had an extra plate I put on it so it looks like I got a screaming deal. Engine and 5 speed with 112k on it and a full exhaust system, which I needed badly, all for $450. I'm stoked

neither my 96 nor the 97 that I'm getting had an EGR. But while we're talking about that, I did do that egr fix mentioned in that post on my 99 Outback that I put a 2.2 in. I didn't have a code come up at all for the first month and a half of driving until I went to the smog test. As soon as the test was over not two blocks away the EGR CEL came on. no matter what I do I cannot seem to figure out how to get the light to stay off.

I have a 97 ej22 motor that might need a head replaced due to a accident. Is it possible to take a head from a 93 ej22 and slap it on there? I know the engine was a interference engine in 97 and anything before that was not. Thanks