skishop69

Yeah, I still got it. I'll have to look at my available time. I'm just about done with my addition and new shop, but I've got to step it up. I've got friends coming in from Spokane next weekend. Does it run and just have issues, or.... Ski

I know I should check classifieds and post this there, but please don't move it. I need to know if any of the Seattle area clubbers have a sub they are looking to sell. I need one that is running or needs only minor work. It's for a friend. She made the mistake of buying a Rabbit (God help me) and it's falling apart. I need something reliable, under $1000 and in decent shape quick. Let me know guys. Thanks, Ski

It's an 87.5 XT Turbo that's light metallic blue with tinted windows. There are pics in the gallery.

DISCLAIMER: For those of you who are obsessed with safety and 'good judgement' , read no further as this will no doubt upset you and get you irked. I skydive and jump snowmobiles off cliffs so I am well aware of the dangers involved with high speed and control. I assume all risks and responsibilities associated with any 'dangerous' activity. So, I'm coming home late last night from my emmission re-cert class and driving normal (about 10 over the speed limit 70mph). This guy in some mid to late 90's Mazda (I don't really know what model, as it never made it past my rear wheels) starts riding my hiney. I don't know what it is about this car, but since I started driving it, every a**hole with a coffee can rice burner wants to 'challenge' the car. Normally, I politely decline unless it's safe and in good nature. He's got plenty of room to go around (almost no one on the road) but won't do so. Now, I am partly to blame, as I figure I'm going 10 over, I figure he can go the h*ll around! Finally he does, pulls up a little and starts doing the accel/decel game. At this point, I'm tired and cranky, soooooo........ You wanna play?! Let's play! Long story short (yeah, right), the XT's top speed on flat level ground is...................... 124mph!!! At this point, my foot is practically through the floorboard and he's not gaining so I figure...Point proved. I slow down and let him go by. This never happens with any of my other cars. What is it about this car? Does anyone else have this problem, or am I an a**hole magnet?

I figured it was a sock. I've got a new pump and filter, but I can't get her to rev over 4800. New exhaust all the way back, coil, ignitor, t-belts, cap,rotor, wires and plugs. I've seen socks get enoung crap to caoolapse on themselves and restrict flow. Many times actually. I'll have to pull the tank and check. I haven't had time to monitor the fuel pressure when it happens. Maybe tonight.

Does the Xt run an inline filter before the pump like the previous Subes or does it have a sock in the tank? Thanks, Ski

Bump...

So, let me get this straight. You add the xylene directly to the gas tank and drive it like you stole it. (Not hard for me, it's my regular style:burnout: ) Then do you take the test with some of the mixteru still in the tank or do you refill and then take the test. I have to do mine on the XT this week, and I don't want any suprises. Our 4 gas is down at the shop.

Sweet!!! PM me or tell me when you come over.

Not really that hard, but I've been welding for 20 years now. the beauty of that plan, NO BODYWORD!

Well, whilst detailing the newest addition to the family, I found rust and rust-out in a very bad place! :-\ Around both hinge pockets for the sunroof, someone used some really p*ss poor sealant so I decided to clean it up and reseal it. Unfortunately, it's pretty rusted with a couple of small (less than 1/8") holes. I resealed it with Ultra Gray since it will stick and seal d*mn near anything. I know this is only temporary, but I already know what to do. I'm going to do a roof transplant. Everyone keep your eyes open for an XT with the full top removeable sunroof in the scrapyards or elsewhere. Make sure there is little to no rust. I don't need the sunroof itself, just the vehicle roof. I'm going to cut it about 2" down the A, B, & C pillars, then re-weld. The trim will hide all the welds, so no bodywork!!! The downside: ALL the glass has to come out. If you see one, let me know and get prices for them to cut it out (3" down the pillars) or if you can do it, I'll make it worth your while. I'll send money for it and then figure out shipping if necessary. Thaks guys!!

Pics are in the gallery under my screen name.

Well, I just had my first experience rewind a regulator. Oh JOY!!! I'm guessing it's not that bad when the cables aren't kinked, but what a mess. Time to go clean the shop and wax the new ride!

Already checked the timing last night. It's fine just driving around, just under a hard load. Look for PM...

First off I must say the only thing I hate more than being wrong, is someone else being right. Grounds, Grounds, Grounds... Check your d*mn grounds!!! Did you know that if the gound on the coolant crossover under the intake is not good, you can burn up an ECU and an ignitor. I know, I did it! Never trust your test light to tell you a ground is good. I of all people should know this. Of course, after two weeks of fighting, you tend to loose focus and be very frustrated. Anywhoo... She purrs like a kitten at idle and screams like a Jag on accel. The top end isn't quiete there though. She won't rev past 5k without a bog and it's worse when the turbo kicks in. New pump and filter with good pressure so I'm fairly sure it's not fuel related. I'll have to do a backbressure test on the CAT under load and see what pops up. Time to go shine the little lady!!!

Will do. I hooked up the scope and watched the sinal from the ECU to the ignitor and when she dies, no signal. Continuity on the wire is good, and that only leaves the ECU. Should have broken the scope out to begin with.

I found a company in Texas that can repair the older Subaru ECU. The cost is $150 - $175 depending on part #. The company is Autocomp 1-888-217-4072. They offer in stock ECUs as well. I just ordered mine and for $30 it'll be here tommorrow.

Ayone else got an ECU they'd be willing to part with? Part number 22611-AA290.

That'd be cool. I'm ggona get one from NAPA, but I can return it even if I use it. (special privleges )

Ok, so i get the motor out of the XT. Both heads are cracked (no suprise). I send them out and go to work on the re-ring. I forgot how much fun it is to get the piston pis out. I get that handled and go on to extract the broken bolt at the downpipe flange. zzz I drill a pilot hole and insert extractor. No budge. Apply generous heat, no budge. Ok, drill and tap. Crap! don't have the right size tap. Keep drilling hole out larger until I see some threads. A little pencil grinding to get it right there and the make taps out of bolts and start to pick out dead bolt with a small pick chasing it with the 'taps'. An hour and a half later..... SUCCESS! Then, reseal entire motor with gasket kit. Assemble motor with new heads, water pump, t-belts, belts, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Got lucky, it had a new clutch. Got to put in axles..... WRONG ones. Everybody list the same ones. Go to Schmucks and go through the books to match axles by spline count and length. Install new axles and do brakes while I'm there. Oh, btw, did I mention the car sat for two years? :-\ Holy rusted sh*t Batman! Install motor... Slides onto tranny like butter! Have to fight motor mounts for 30 min. Drops in! Hook up all misc extras and start. Idles funny. Check fuel pressure (new filter). Too low. D*mn!! Replace fuel pump. Pressure ok. Start vehicle. Still idles funny (bad gas). Runs about 30 min and dies. Restarts 3 times and then won't start. NO SPARK! Son of a #$*&@!!! Check and clean ignitor and ground. Same problem. Spend an hour going through NAPA parts catalog to find an ignitor that will work. EUREAKA!!! Found direct replacement!! Install and test. Still dies after 20 min. Aaaawww come on already!!!! Check all power, ground, connectors and wires associated with ignition system. All seem ok EXCEPT... when it happens, the trigger side of the coil drops voltage. Backtrack wiring. Checked resistance to ECU on disty signal output to ignitor when voltage is good and get 6.6M ohms (norm). Do same test when voltage drops and Infinite resitance. ECU BAD. BAD ECU!!! Jesus H. @&*$! on a popsicle stick!!!! Wanna bet that ECU would account for almost ALL of my problems? Well, tommorrow it gets a new ECU and if something else goes....I'm rolling it outside and toasting marshmallows! Somebody please shoot me and put me out of my misery!

I didn't see any previuos posts on this. I did a lot of research today, and NAPA carries an ignitor (part # T190) that will replace the old ones. It's actually for 81-85 Nissan, but it's the same thing. The coil holder is a little larger so you have to get a different screw to clamp the coil tight. Plugs in and bolts up the same. Now the shocker... My price was $114 which means retail is about $150! Ouch I haven't crossed it to a Schmucks numer yet, but it should be a little cheaper.

The ignitor is a little transistor that is attached to the coil bracket. The ECU sends the signal to it/ through it to fire the coil. I've done the cleaning routine with no change. I drove it back from Olympia before I tore it down for head work and rings. No it runs for about 10 min and dies or dies immediately if you rev it up. When it dies, I have no spark and the trigger line for the coil glows dim (with test light) with no pulses. When running it is bright and pulses. Usually when a transistor goes into cascade failure, this is how it acts. I saw in one of the threads, that someone had used a late 70's GM igntion module to replace it. I'll have to go check schematics, but it should be possible and not too hard. If I can find one new, I'd like to go that route, or some kind of bypass.

I did a search and there was just too much to go through. The ignitor went bad on the 87.5 (along with several other things that have been replaced) and I want to know where to get a new one or if it can be bypassed. This 'new' car is beginning to p*ss me off !!!

Actually, we went to the books and matched by spline count and length, then back tracked the part number. I came up for the same year turbo 4spd auto. Go figure.... Anyway, the car is running and when I have some more time, I'l post the entire fiasco.

Ok, I've got my motor back together and I'm almost ready to put it in. I got axels and of course they were wrong. NAPA only shows one number and Schmucks has to special order them. I know the local NAPA has them at the wherehouse, but I need more info. What other years/makes will fit this thing? I wanna button this thing up today. BTW, this is the FT4WD with Spider.