skishop69

That's what I did. I use my electronic stethescope for leakdows. Much easier. BTW, I grew up in Great Falls.

Well, I took the TPS apart (very easy) and cleaned it up, no problem. Un fortunately I decided to pursue some other hunches. Comp test: 1-110psi, 2-110psi, 3-130psi, 4-130psi. Oh crap! Let's add insult to injury.... Leakdown test: 1-80% with air escaping to crankcase, 2-60% with air escaping the crankcase AND into cylinder 1; 3&4-15% with no decernable flow (ie, ok). Son of a B*tch!!! There are a few posibilities to cause this... Cyl 1 definitley has bad rings, cyl 2 has bad rings and either a cracked head or bad exhuast valve or seat. How do you know it's the exhaust valve/seat? I'm glad I asked that... When #2 is on compression stroke, #1 exaust is open. The only way air from #2 can get into #1 is through the exaust since it's ONLY from 2 to 1 and not both ways. Tommorrow I'm going to run a backpressure test on the CAT just for fun and run my borescope down the plug holes. 134K and I could still see the hone marks on the cyl walls. Out comes the engine on Saturday. At least the fix will be cheap.

Well, I got into tuning up the new ride yesterday (because it wouldn't idle and the acceleration sucks) I know it needed the basics (cap, rotor, plugs, wires and LOF) Didn't make much difference. Then found a huge vacuum leak on the #1 intake gasket. Repaired. Not much different. Checked codes and low and behold, 42. I've priced this thing and it's almost half what I paid for the car. I will buy it if I have to, but can it be taken apart and serviced like some of the others? The pinouts in all my books aren't correct and neither is the one from No Data (All Data) What readings should I have on what pins? (it's the four terminal TPS)

I did some searching in the gallery and couldn't find the photo for the black lifted XT. Anybody know where the pic is? My buddy wants to see it. He thinks I'm nuts. Thanks

It's the full size trucks. Or the side window moulding on the Suburbans. Just PM me to set up payment and shipping. Right now there's no deadline.

When I contacted them, they said they were discontinued. Maybe I was dealing with an idiot (not that it would suprise me). Somebody else give it a crack and see what happens. If we can get a better deal, all the better.

I found a local supplier who will give me a screamin' deal on the gaskets. I have already bought for myself. The price is $60 per unit. You heard right! These are brand new in the bag NOT NOS. The chrome strip is not available, HOWEVER.... the strip that Chevy uses on there '80s trucks fits perfect and can be purchased from any auto glass or autobody supply shop. Let me know who wants new gaskets and I will make a buy. I believe these also fit the coupes and wagons as well. Cash talks. My bad....$60 + shipping

I just downloaded the pics for the XT I bought this weekend. They are in the gallery or here... http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/skishop69/album?.dir=3cd7scd&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos Best $600 spent!!!

Does anyone know what the A/R is on the VF7 turbo? I just got that 87.5 XT Turbo and I assume it has the VF7. The reason I ask, is that I have a T3 with an A/R of .63 that I belive to be a bigger compressor. Thinking swap/upgrade down the road. Thanks

I'll get some up when I get home!

So I'm out in Shelton at my buddies place and we go out wheelin'. I'm bombing along in the Brat, when all of a sudden, my acceleration goes to crap. We're thinking I bent the gas pedal, so I tweek it a little and it seems to be alright for a while. Int the end, I pretty much loose all throttle control. I end up taking the cable end out of the pedal and tieing on a long zip tie so we can drive home. It pulled smooth and returned. Wierd. We get it apart and the the cable housing had fallen onto the EGR pipe, melted and collapsed. We go to Pick A Part in Olympia to get a cable and end up having to put in a pedal and cable from a '90. Works great. Anywhoo.... I spot something and bought something. An '87 XT Turbo full 4wd, 5spd, LCD, fully loaded with the removeable full top sunroof!!! 136k on it, the paint body, and interior are perfect! Eveything except the cruise works. The air suspension works and has new bags and lines. It sat for a while, so it needs a clean and tune with t-belts, but the tires are new. And just how much would you pay you ask!? (in tv infomercial voice) A one time low payment of $600 !!!! No joke! And that included tax!!! That was the most expensive throttle cable I ever bought, but well worth it!!

Well, only 3.5 hours to clean the Brat. I've never seen fuzzy seatbelts before. Mold everywhere. I've let it sit for extended periods before, but this has never happened before. This time though, I had it parked sideways on an incline. I have a feeling that with all the rain, the water seeped in between the T-top gasket and the body. Either that, or, my windshield gasket has given up the ghost. I had to Simple Green everything, shampoo the carpets and then Lysol anything fabric. Looks almost brand new inside now. No more parking on inclines!!!

A little redneck fun..... My '84 Brat with 197k on it drug a '87 Nissan Sentra 4 door with no tires around the woods outside Shelton for 3 hours at 30mph. No overheating or odd noises. 3 hours of hilarious stunts and then we towed it to the main road to get it hauled off. Someone had dumped it out there. I know it was covered before, but why do people always dump their sh*t in the woods?

All off-road lights must be covered when driving on the road. Street, hiway or forest service, doesn't matter. As to getting a ticket, you're all right. 99.9% of the time, they won't bother. But, if someone peed if the officers Wheaties, don't count on a friendly encounter.

IT shall be done!!! I just have to cough up the $1000 for the engine internals then get to building an intake.

If I've learned anything here, and I hope I have, the '82 - '86 NA disty's are interchangeable. (if I'm wrong, I humbly beg forgiveness) The firing order is based on the motor, not the disty. Though, this changes when you start throwing in different modules and ECM control. Dropping the 'E' clip in there isn't going to affect one cyl only. If it got loose in the works and stayed loose, it would screw up all cyls intermittently. The disty uses either Hall effect or magnectic reluctor set-up. With either, if the airgap beteen the pick-up and the vane is damage, altered or blocked... misfire! Check for a damaged vane (under the rotor in the base). If you don't find one, you most likely have a cap, wire or plug issue. Can't remember ever hearing of a disty itself causing a single cyl. misfire. BTW, other than the probs you mentioned, was the motor running correct with the original disty?

Any pics? And Turbone..... One of these days, I swear!

Anyone out there got a 6" lift on their Brat? I'm looking for info on the height form the ground to the bottom of the rocker panel and what size tires you used. Trying to decide 4" or 6". If no Brats, how about GLs from the same era? Thanks guys.

T3 isn't all that big. Two of them might be slight overkill and they will have some lag time being bigger than req'd. I'm using one of those for my single turbo ER27. There are actually two sizes of the T3 and I'm using the larger where I'm guessing they're using the smaller to reduce lag. Man, that intake was pretty sweet. Helps me for fabbing mine. Now all I have to do is find those injector boss'.

Ditto. Although.... depending on year, make and model... whether it's a prgrammer or a chip there are some that actually work. Almost all of them run some risk of damaging the cat or motor depending on driving style. They either fake the motor into open loop, drop the reading of the ECT or fake the MAF/MAP reading. All of that just adds up to dumping more fuel in. Programmers actually re-write the factory settings on spark and fuel (and a few others depending) taking it outside of EPA specs and can result in more power or better mileage but usually never both. Chips = round file.

Yeah, I agree. To verify, you'll have to run those same tests at the ECU connector. That'll tell you if there's a wiring issue. Also check the terminals on both ends to make sure they're not damaged. Wires are good for breaking off inside the insulation. Does this code set as soon as you start it, or does it take some driving to get it to set? And just because blowing air through it changes the voltage, doesn't necessarily mean it's good. If the ECU sees the voltage jump radically in comparison to other correlated sensors, it will set the code.

As far as your key code goes...... They go back to at least '82. The key code will be stamped or printed on your passenger side door lock cylinder. Any competent locksmith can look it up. If for some reason it's not there, check the drivers side. If you can't find it at all, pull either cylinder and take it to a locksmith. They can cut a key from the tumbler pattern and then tell you what the key code is. I just went through this on the Turbo Coupe as the key got crushed along with my XT6.

NAPA or AutoZone. 12oz can, gold and silver.

I agree. A dirty valve or a bad vave guide could cause that. Hook up a vacuum guage and watch it at idle. If it bounces instead of reading steady, bad valve guide. Along with the Seafoam, try a can of BG 44K. It's the best additive out there for reducing/removing carbon.